Rig dropped power then cut out completely without any prior symptoms

[Slappy]

Driving to work last night my Nav shut down on me and wouldn't come back to life. There hasn't been any warning signs at all.

Driving like normal, slowed to turn onto the highway and took off like normal but hardly a kilometre up the road it chugged a little then shut down. The battery light was the only light to come on. All electrics work like normal and the car seems to crank as hard as ever.

I have a bad feeling I'm out for a pump but I don't know enough. If I push the primer a few times it gets stiff. Had the RAA lady jump in and have a go at cranking it over while I pumped away but nothing at all.

Is there any chance it could be a battery thing or is that light a red herring lol

Thanks guys

 

[Slappy]

Update -

Mechanics are saying they think it's the crank angle sensor, I've just told them to go for it - if it ends up being injector pump I'm gonna have to drag it home and set it aside for some time

 

[Boogieboots]

Update -

Mechanics are saying they think it's the crank angle sensor, I've just told them to go for it - if it ends up being injector pump I'm gonna have to drag it home and set it aside for some time

 

[Been a while]

ahhh the old crank sensor.. Do a code read first and then TEST all those sensors before replacing.. some shitehead shops play the R/R game to diagnose too!
Always get second opinions!
But yes, plenty of codes and other things can stop pumps! Faulty starter motor, ignition switches, c.a.s, e.c.u, earths etc etc but for yours to stop like that, yup, could be pump! Could be a simple wire dropped off too!

What year, how many k's? Zd pumps can go from 80'000 on, they're shites of things! I did mine, there's all the test I did first and the replacement of the pump, timing chain etc on here, somewhere!

All the best with it!

 

[redkite]

If it cranks, the battery is OK. light may come up if the alternator has died, but that wont stop the engine until the battery is completely flat. And it isn't, cause you can still crank it.

Engine power loss is because of loss of fuel, or loss of air. Loss of fuel can be a broken pump, or a broken ECU, or a broken sensor which causes the ECU not to tell te pump to inject fuel.

 

[Been a while]

If it cranks, the battery is OK. light may come up if the alternator has died, but that wont stop the engine until the battery is completely flat. And it isn't, cause you can still crank it.

Engine power loss is because of loss of fuel, or loss of air. Loss of fuel can be a broken pump, or a broken ECU, or a broken sensor which causes the ECU not to tell te pump to inject fuel.

Lol, and let's not forget starter motors working fine but not sending ENOUGH power to turn the pump on! Faulty ignition switches can do it too! Earths lol it never ends lol

Sounds like air or fuel draining back to the tank on start up, but to stop like that! Mine stopped at an idle, spluttering and dead! Pump!
Yup, did the sensor "merry go round" to diagnose, R/R to diagnose also- starters, alternators, C.P.S etc but in the time consuming AND expensive diagnostics process it turned out to be the pump..

 

[tweak'e]

i doubt its crank sensor, if that fails it will flag an error code.
the pumps are prone to sudden failure. the electronics in the pump fails. common with all vehicles with that pump.
one of the reasons i highly recommend keeping the fuel tank topped up as those electronics are reliant of fuel for cooling.

btw i'm assuming zd30 here.

 

[Slappy]

We checked bits and pieces today, code still leading to the sensor. Just wound up biting the cost on that - worst case I figured at least I would know that's good. Fired straight back to life like nothing was ever wrong. I think I'll open another savings account and start sending money over to that for when the pump does go lol

What year, how many k's? Zd pumps can go from 80'000 on

2006 ZD30, 180,000 on the clock. Very little known history before I bought it a year ago as I picked it up at auction. 80,000 seems way too early for one of these major motor components to fail, that's crazy to me.

 

[Been a while]

We checked bits and pieces today, code still leading to the sensor. Just wound up biting the cost on that - worst case I figured at least I would know that's good. Fired straight back to life like nothing was ever wrong. I think I'll open another savings account and start sending money over to that for when the pump does go lol



2006 ZD30, 180,000 on the clock. Very little known history before I bought it a year ago as I picked it up at auction. 80,000 seems way too early for one of these major motor components to fail, that's crazy to me.

They're known for it! The odds go up after 130000, 150000 anytime 200000 matter of time lol 250000, its time lol mine went at 300000 so I was LUCKY as they say..

Nissan are swines for that crap! Look up con rod failures on the early Navs.. nothing like having the handbrake pulled on at Freeway speeds!
The Europeans copped it hard! Brand new navs throwing conrods through blocks, locking up utes and spewing oil and crap EVERYWHERE as you spin down the freeway... well known manufacturer fail! Denied any wrong doing and took it to court too, the swines!
It gets better, look at what Ford did with the early Pinto! My God! Go google Ford Pinto deaths/ fuel tank explosions! They don't give two ducks about you and me! Give us your money now duck off!

Remember the Fight Club seen where he's telling the lady about car companies as they're sitting on the plane lol well, that's the Ford Pinto he's talking about and how Ford handled it, other companies did and DO IT TOO.
The car shown in the movie is not the Pinto! But that's what that's alllll about.. yeahhhh, car companies don't care my man...

 

[Been a while]

Oh, so it was the c.p.s lol wow! You lucky bugger lol well there you go...

But you're right about saving for parts! It smart! Start buying now in preparation.. lol, i would have put money on a pump too lol bloody navs!

 

[tweak'e]

We checked bits and pieces today, code still leading to the sensor. Just wound up biting the cost on that - worst case I figured at least I would know that's good. Fired straight back to life like nothing was ever wrong. I think I'll open another savings account and start sending money over to that for when the pump does go lol

i suspect then what you thought was battery light is in fact the engine light.
otherwise if it wasn't the engine light then you could be reading an old code.
crank sensor failure should flag an error and turn on the engine light.

unfortunately the crank sensor is right up the front and can be exposed to dirt etc. still i havn't heard of many failing.

 

[Boogieboots]

We checked bits and pieces today, code still leading to the sensor. Just wound up biting the cost on that - worst case I figured at least I would know that's good. Fired straight back to life like nothing was ever wrong. I think I'll open another savings account and start sending money over to that for when the pump does go lol

Yep I started that pump fund a couple of years ago. Much cheaper than feeling I need to buy a new car and starting all over again