Thanks for that Gus, I'll probably have a tinker with mine soon. Looks pretty easy!
plastic moulding on steering wheel
- Thread starter HJWB
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K
KraftyPg
Guest
Given that the socket pictured is for controls on both sides there is a good chance that even trucks without the stereo controls would have the applicable plug already installed with the wires terminating at the plug when left hand controls aren't there.
Of course the statement in the how-to thread about these controls not working with the standard 6 disc might be an issue for those with a standard head unit that came in a car without the controls but until someone tries it I guess we will never know.
Still be interesting to see a price comparison between the $70US and what Nissan Aust think they can get.
Of course the statement in the how-to thread about these controls not working with the standard 6 disc might be an issue for those with a standard head unit that came in a car without the controls but until someone tries it I guess we will never know.
Still be interesting to see a price comparison between the $70US and what Nissan Aust think they can get.
Hopefully Tony will be prepared to be the guinea pig. If he can confirm that the wiring harness is there then I am thinking wrecker and R51 Pathy as that will be cheaper than what Nissan Aust will want to charge!
Gus
K
KraftyPg
Guest
My problem with wreckers so far is finding R51's or D40's I've found D22's but they don't share enough parts I want. Like Tony said above there is possibly more Maxima's in wrecking yards, if we were able to find how many parts were interchangeable the wreckers yards could become alot more useful to some of us D40 drivers.
Playing ginee pig ... guinee pig ... bloody hamster!
Attached is a pic I just took inside my steering wheel. It's a piece of cake to remove but I have two warnings about it.
1) Remove the airbag fuse (I did do this one). It's the second fuse from the top, in the left hand row, in the fuse holder beside the glove box. This should avoid problems with the airbag going off. Mine is still intact, I had no problems there.
2) Remove the horn fuse (I did not do this one). It's under the bonnet somewhere. My horn beeped three times and thankfully this only procured a single shout from my wife, who at the moment is sick in bed with the flu and there's only two pieces of gyprock between the horn and her head. I am a lucky man.
Warnings over! Let's look at the picture and figure out what it all means.
At the bottom is the "Wire SRS Airbag Restraint". It's about as thick as a coathanger ... or a Ford Falcon replacement radio antenna if you don't know what a coathanger is. There's nothing behind it, you can give it a good push, just don't slip off it. I used a 5mm-wide flat-bladed Stanley screwdriver. There's a black-insulated cable nearby that runs across the steering wheel - it's the cruise control cable.
Now, with a good enough push on that wire, the entire centre module pops out on its own as it is spring mounted. The wire you're pushing is part of a restraint that goes around the whole bottom, you can see it rising up just to the left of the words "Torx bolt". It retains the airbag in 4 places.
On the top left is the "Cruise Control Plug". The cable for this runs around the bottom and past that hole you were poking in, up to the cruise control switches. There are several wires missing in the plug - I'm guessing those are the audio controls. I didn't disassemble further to see if there is anything on the other side of that cable connector. That's for another day.
You can also see the torx bolt. It's just one bolt, easily reachable from the front face of the steering wheel by pushing the airbag module to the side. Unscrew it and pop the side piece out.
Easy! Repaint, replace. I'll be doing mine when the time comes.
As for the audio controls, I think we should take a poke at the Maxima gear. I would not be surprised if they just make the one module that fits several cars and just has different part numbers and prices.
Attached is a pic I just took inside my steering wheel. It's a piece of cake to remove but I have two warnings about it.
1) Remove the airbag fuse (I did do this one). It's the second fuse from the top, in the left hand row, in the fuse holder beside the glove box. This should avoid problems with the airbag going off. Mine is still intact, I had no problems there.
2) Remove the horn fuse (I did not do this one). It's under the bonnet somewhere. My horn beeped three times and thankfully this only procured a single shout from my wife, who at the moment is sick in bed with the flu and there's only two pieces of gyprock between the horn and her head. I am a lucky man.
Warnings over! Let's look at the picture and figure out what it all means.
At the bottom is the "Wire SRS Airbag Restraint". It's about as thick as a coathanger ... or a Ford Falcon replacement radio antenna if you don't know what a coathanger is. There's nothing behind it, you can give it a good push, just don't slip off it. I used a 5mm-wide flat-bladed Stanley screwdriver. There's a black-insulated cable nearby that runs across the steering wheel - it's the cruise control cable.
Now, with a good enough push on that wire, the entire centre module pops out on its own as it is spring mounted. The wire you're pushing is part of a restraint that goes around the whole bottom, you can see it rising up just to the left of the words "Torx bolt". It retains the airbag in 4 places.
On the top left is the "Cruise Control Plug". The cable for this runs around the bottom and past that hole you were poking in, up to the cruise control switches. There are several wires missing in the plug - I'm guessing those are the audio controls. I didn't disassemble further to see if there is anything on the other side of that cable connector. That's for another day.
You can also see the torx bolt. It's just one bolt, easily reachable from the front face of the steering wheel by pushing the airbag module to the side. Unscrew it and pop the side piece out.
Easy! Repaint, replace. I'll be doing mine when the time comes.
As for the audio controls, I think we should take a poke at the Maxima gear. I would not be surprised if they just make the one module that fits several cars and just has different part numbers and prices.
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K
KraftyPg
Guest
You could go into business painting and refitting at better than Nissan prices, after all thats probably what they with the bits they pull off, but you could offer different colours.
The blank or not used connectors sound reasonable given that the grey plug looks the same (or close too) can you see anywhere that the black plug in the Maxima picture might connect too or is it already connected somewhere that your image doesn't show?
If you ask Maxima drivers they probably think they are more prestige than us lowly ute drivers so we might be shocked to see just how Nissan price these parts but you're right it's worth a look. My local wreckers don't let people in to dismantle cars anymore (which to me kind of defeats the idea of a wreckers) but any wreckers that does would be a good place that way wrecking the wheel doesn't matter.
The blank or not used connectors sound reasonable given that the grey plug looks the same (or close too) can you see anywhere that the black plug in the Maxima picture might connect too or is it already connected somewhere that your image doesn't show?
If you ask Maxima drivers they probably think they are more prestige than us lowly ute drivers so we might be shocked to see just how Nissan price these parts but you're right it's worth a look. My local wreckers don't let people in to dismantle cars anymore (which to me kind of defeats the idea of a wreckers) but any wreckers that does would be a good place that way wrecking the wheel doesn't matter.
I think that's the horn wire. Big plastic plug that clips on to the right side at the base of the airbag module (I do not think you can unplug the airbag module and I wasn't game enough to pull it out too far to see). There really isn't much else in there.
Wreckers probably do things the way they do now because:
1) Too many people were damaging surrounding parts in order to retrieve the bit they wanted
2) Too many people were shoving parts down their pants and walking out. Sure, it's not easy to do that with a Western Star's gearbox, but I'm sure some have tried.
3) Everyone else was having all the dismantling fun and they were missing out.
I wonder if Nizzbits could give us a heads-up on the Maxima/Navara (or any other model) controls and their prices. New is good, too!
Wreckers probably do things the way they do now because:
1) Too many people were damaging surrounding parts in order to retrieve the bit they wanted
2) Too many people were shoving parts down their pants and walking out. Sure, it's not easy to do that with a Western Star's gearbox, but I'm sure some have tried.
3) Everyone else was having all the dismantling fun and they were missing out.
I wonder if Nizzbits could give us a heads-up on the Maxima/Navara (or any other model) controls and their prices. New is good, too!
K
KraftyPg
Guest
The other question worth asking too is whether or not the those utes with stereo controls fitted at the factory have the same head unit as the standard no wheel control models. I know the US thread suggested the controls wouldn't (or may not) work with the standard 6 disc but it wouldn't be unheard of for us to have different standard units to the US, (after all they need imperial frequencies and left hand controls).
The manual I've got shows several different units but it doesn't really distinguish each unit as too which may be controlled from the wheel and which wont. For someone who doesn't particularly want or need these controls (unless they are dirt cheap which I doubt) I seem to be asking a lot of questions and thinking about it a lot.
The manual I've got shows several different units but it doesn't really distinguish each unit as too which may be controlled from the wheel and which wont. For someone who doesn't particularly want or need these controls (unless they are dirt cheap which I doubt) I seem to be asking a lot of questions and thinking about it a lot.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Well bugger me, did someone see Satan ice skating to work this morning? Local dealer just rang me it's taken them 3 or 4 weeks but they have finally got a new wheel in for me. They are still claiming the whole wheel needs replacing and the plastic can't be ordered separately, I'm still wondering how they convinced Nissan that it needs a fully replacement at their cost.
Can't help but wonder if maybe there is another car on the lot that needs a steering wheel replaced and they are trying to screw Nissan out of the replacement cost especially she the girl originally told me the new wheel was $1200 RRP.
When I get around to getting the job done I guess I'll have to mark the old wheel to see if they are replacing the whole thing.
Can't help but wonder if maybe there is another car on the lot that needs a steering wheel replaced and they are trying to screw Nissan out of the replacement cost especially she the girl originally told me the new wheel was $1200 RRP.
When I get around to getting the job done I guess I'll have to mark the old wheel to see if they are replacing the whole thing.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
It happened, I took the Nav in today to get the new steering wheel and low and behold it's a complete new wheel for the sake of one bit of plastic. I put a few discrete marks on the old wheel so I could tell if they did the job as they said they would but as it turns out I didn't need to the new wheel has a completely different feel to it. So for maybe $100 worth of plastic they've given me an entire wheel they claim is worth $1200 RRP.
Of course taking the battery terminals off has reset everything which doesn't really worry me, however I had to reset the drivers window so it went up automatically and for some reason the stereo now doesn't keep the clock on screen.
I suspected they might have removed the live fuse because they did the same thing in my old Pulsar to stop the door alarm beeping while they were working under the dash with the keys in and the door open but then the clock does keep time it just doesn't leave the clock displayed like it used to when the unit is switched off but the ignition is on. Anyway that's a problem for another day, stereo works when I turn it on so that's all that matters for now.
Of course taking the battery terminals off has reset everything which doesn't really worry me, however I had to reset the drivers window so it went up automatically and for some reason the stereo now doesn't keep the clock on screen.
I suspected they might have removed the live fuse because they did the same thing in my old Pulsar to stop the door alarm beeping while they were working under the dash with the keys in and the door open but then the clock does keep time it just doesn't leave the clock displayed like it used to when the unit is switched off but the ignition is on. Anyway that's a problem for another day, stereo works when I turn it on so that's all that matters for now.
Had mine serviced today and asked about the silver panels flaking. The official response was that it is general wear and tear and not covered by warranty. I could have the panels replaced but they come as a unit with the cruise control switches - $280!!!
The latch on my centre console broke too, the lid comes as a unit - $140
The "tek-nish-uns" recommended my wiper blades be replaced. I replaced the myself only 3 months ago and they are the whiz bang silicone ones. Salesman was a little embarassed when I pointed this out.
They threatened to "upgrade" my front springs for the recall too. I told him if they touched my Tough Dog's I would not be impressed.
I asked how the safety check went and he said it was perfect, when I questioned why they recommended last time to replace the disk rotors but not this time he was a embarassed...again...
All up, $389.
The latch on my centre console broke too, the lid comes as a unit - $140
The "tek-nish-uns" recommended my wiper blades be replaced. I replaced the myself only 3 months ago and they are the whiz bang silicone ones. Salesman was a little embarassed when I pointed this out.
They threatened to "upgrade" my front springs for the recall too. I told him if they touched my Tough Dog's I would not be impressed.
I asked how the safety check went and he said it was perfect, when I questioned why they recommended last time to replace the disk rotors but not this time he was a embarassed...again...
All up, $389.
It's entirely possible that they have a manual that says "at this mileage, offer this and that" and they don't actually inspect the thing, it's like they're reading off cue cards.
You have to feel sorry for the individual techs, they're told "this is how you must do your job" and these days, having a job is important. The greatest shame is that there's no one individual person that you could go up to and educate them with a suitable piece of 4x2.
You have to feel sorry for the individual techs, they're told "this is how you must do your job" and these days, having a job is important. The greatest shame is that there's no one individual person that you could go up to and educate them with a suitable piece of 4x2.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
The $280 price tag for the plastic is interesting. Since they replaced my whole wheel I don't have a need to chase things further but that Maxima plastic bits that were posted on one of the other pages were only $80 from the US, even if you doubled it for the exchange (which you wouldn't need to right now) it still makes the $280 outrageously overpriced. If the Maxima's don't fit the Nav I wouldn't reckon the Nav (would be Frontier in the US) ones would be that much dearer to warrant the $280 Nissan Aust charge.
I fully expected Nissan to tell me my wheel was wear and tear too and it was only because of the recall that I even bothered to do anything about it. Will be interesting too see how long the new one lasts since the dealer reckons the problem was defective paint and Nissan have now found non defective paint.
I didn't get to see any techies at my dealership all I got to see was the wanker in the blue collar that sits behind the desk and tells people the jobs the techies were suppose to do, then acts all silly and vague when he shows you how good they vacuumed the car and there is still mud spread throughout the mats and the carpet. But on the day they replaced the wheel he did tell me my car was long overdue for it's service and he could book it in for me. Of course he did go off the sticker on the windscreen that says 10K on it which I never bothered to remove 8 months ago when the 10K service was done but I suppose it shows he looked at something.
I fully expected Nissan to tell me my wheel was wear and tear too and it was only because of the recall that I even bothered to do anything about it. Will be interesting too see how long the new one lasts since the dealer reckons the problem was defective paint and Nissan have now found non defective paint.
I didn't get to see any techies at my dealership all I got to see was the wanker in the blue collar that sits behind the desk and tells people the jobs the techies were suppose to do, then acts all silly and vague when he shows you how good they vacuumed the car and there is still mud spread throughout the mats and the carpet. But on the day they replaced the wheel he did tell me my car was long overdue for it's service and he could book it in for me. Of course he did go off the sticker on the windscreen that says 10K on it which I never bothered to remove 8 months ago when the 10K service was done but I suppose it shows he looked at something.
Just had my 30k service last week. While it was in there they replaced the cruise control switch panel no problems at all. Looks brand new now. They were also going to replace the switch panel on the passenger side door as well as it had the same issue with flaking paint but they forgot to order it so it,s getting done next service instead.
thirdbounce
Member
My '07 navara steering wheel is fine. After nearly 160,000km it is still good. However the missus's '09 Pathy is having these peeling issues too.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Well thats good news for you because while the 07 might be closing out it's warranty and they haven't used "defective paint" the 09 will still easily fit in the warranty so you should get it fixed. Maybe since there is a few older models that aren't suffering this problem there is hope that some of us getting these bits replaced might get some life out of the new ones...only time will tell I guess
Beergutz
Member
I took my Nav in today, comes out of warranty in January. No problems what so ever with having the right side panel replaced on the steering wheel except they didnt have the part in stock........even complained about sloppy towbar hitch and they replaced the locking pin free of charge. No complaints from me.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
One thing I have noticed with the new plastic is that it's harder to clean. The other day opening a can while driving the usual cry of "it's a boy" occurred and some splashed onto the steering wheel plastic, it wiped off fine and hasn't left any sticky residue however everything I have used to wipe it has left traces of itself behind. I'm not overly worried it's a car I use it and if bits wear out, get old or deteriorate especially from my lack of care then I'm not going to complain but it does confirm there is something different between the painted plastic that came with the car and the stuff in the new wheel.
Beergutz
Member
Had my plastic cover replaced today. They have replaced the cruise control switches also with new cover. New switches have backlit switches now like later model Navs......very happy.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Yeah mine are back lit too, not sure it makes a huge difference to me, I'd have preferred them putting the steering wheel with the stereo controls in but since the one they gave is supposedly $1200 RRP I guess they couldn't afford or justify a few extra buttons.
