Performance mods D40 Navara

[4BYFOR]

So what you guys think? Is it loud?

 

[grasshopper]

Sounded ok to me. But mine is stock.

 

[d40ryan]

did you get dump pipe aswell with your 3'?

 

[4BYFOR]

did you get dump pipe aswell with your 3'?

Yep, sure did.. That's worth doing in my books it's where a lot of the restriction is

 

[Cobez]

Did you do your own dump pipe man? I heard the bolts on the back of the turbo are a major whore to get undone.

 

[4BYFOR]

Did you do your own dump pipe man? I heard the bolts on the back of the turbo are a major whore to get undone.

Nah old mate at the shop did it for me.. But I had taken it off before that when I did the dpf. Only one of the bolts was a pain in the ass but otherwise wd40 on each one let it soak in and your good

 

[Cobez]

Ahh cool. Lucky for me mine is an 06 (no dpf)

Next mod will be turbo to rear exhaust.

 

[jimmy_jay89]

i think its too quiet

 

[Cobez]

That's what im after, as opposed to a tonne of noise.

 

[Terrano4x4]

not too loud, sounds just right

 

[siringo]

I reckon i'd find the bov annoying after a while. it sounded quite loud.

 

[4BYFOR]

I reckon i'd find the bov annoying after a while. it sounded quite loud.

I turn it on and off via switch in the car.. I do get over it sometimes then I miss it haha

 

[4BYFOR]

Ok guys before I mentioned that the limp mode was gone after I changed the rail well it came back not long after...

Well I have finally solved the issue of my fuel rail problem.. Thanks to bluenavara and the post on nissan-navara.net about shimming the fuel valve.. Mine was leaking under minimal pressure causing me grief for years. I changed the rail 3 times and 1 suction control valve plus a trip to the diesel mechanic for diagnosis all up around $1000. This fix cost me $10 and solved my limp mode! The rails I changed them over with we're all 2nd hand one was better the the other but this must be faulty part by denso..

Ford does sell the valve as a separate part and got quoted $270 for the replacment but I decided to shim it first to make sure that this would be the problem! What do you know it was the culprit all along... I can plant my foot down, full WOT and no dramas now..

This must be a faulty part on all 2007 navaras too bad nissan sell it only as the complete rail, they should really look at a replacement for the valve as this is a world wide issue.

Dyno time!!! Now I can tune this baby and see what it can do!

 

[4BYFOR]

From the nissan-navara.net site;

Bluenavara wrote: The shim indeed places a preload on the spring. The stock shim is 1.5mm. Add another 2.5mm shim or replace altogether with a 4mm shim. The valve is held together by nothing more than a crimp around the cap. (Mine was not crimped)

Carefully pry the crimp open while holding the valve in a vice, so that you don't lose the little ball bearing and the other small parts. Add the shim, put back in vice and recrimp around the cap. The valve body itself is M22 in size, the spill tube on the back end is secured by an M13 bolt. The crimped cap is the end that screws into the fuel rail itself.

FPRV on the leftside of the fuel rail (Andy's pic):
Prying the crimp open in a vice: Catch everything in a magnetic pan, the thicker extra shim seen on the left:
All parts neatly arranged before being put back together and the cap is recrimped (Fashraf's pic): As Diggerman mentioned, it's astonishing that such a crude and simple part is playing such a major and crucial role in controlling an advanced high pressure common rail fuel system.

 

[mick087]

hey mate cheers for the vid's on the 3" system, sounds pretty sweet with the BOV. With yours being a straight thru did you have to move any sensors or remount them to keep the ECU happy?

 

[Tyson25]

Exhausy sounds perfect. Would be keen on a how to on the BOV

 

[jimmy_jay89]

that would be alot cheaper option..

was ur rail over pressurizing?

what shop do you reckon to get this done at

 

[navarian]

Love the exhaust note.

 

[4BYFOR]

that would be alot cheaper option..

was ur rail over pressurizing?

what shop do you reckon to get this done at

Mate I did it all myself, to do just the valve you don't need to remove the rail but its tricky to do the shim and put the valve back in when it's still on the car.. Otherwise it's about a 5 hour job to get to the bolts to the rail.. You need to remove the manifold to go to the bolts under the rail.. I'm not sure if it was over pressurizing or if the valves are just faulty.. My opinion is a good diesel mechanic would do the job but I did find out that you can purchase a valve already shimmed from chip it for $120

 

[solja]

I might have missed something. but your straight through exhaust - did you do that yourself? I have 2 1/2 cat back but am looking at taking the dump off and doing myself. looks tight up in there though