Navara not running properly when at temperature
- Thread starter BISKIT
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JPMC
Member
Your right on the money with the SCV. Everything you described is how my SCV started playing up way back when.
Thanks for the info JPMC! I will put a new one in and let you know how it goes.
Have you tried cleaning the fuel system first? The SCV costs over $200, a can of Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment costs about $25.
Another thing to consider - turbocharger actuator. The 2007 model had vacuum-operated actuator and while the vac pump rarely lets go, hose deterioration happens after a few year (it is hot in that engine bay) and the solenoid used by the D40 from 2006-2010 has had failures reported quite a number of times - enough that dealers keep (kept?) the things in stock as spares.
You might also consider removing the MAFS and cleaning inside the little opening with a spray cleaner for electrical contacts (or MAFS cleaner, it's the same stuff). Never, EVER stick anything solid inside it, there's a tiny wire inside that is heated up. Air moving over the wire cools it and changes its resistance, so the amount of air moving past can be calculated. That's why it's fragile - and dealers want about $400 for it. Clean it - carefully - and see if that helps.
Another thing to consider - turbocharger actuator. The 2007 model had vacuum-operated actuator and while the vac pump rarely lets go, hose deterioration happens after a few year (it is hot in that engine bay) and the solenoid used by the D40 from 2006-2010 has had failures reported quite a number of times - enough that dealers keep (kept?) the things in stock as spares.
You might also consider removing the MAFS and cleaning inside the little opening with a spray cleaner for electrical contacts (or MAFS cleaner, it's the same stuff). Never, EVER stick anything solid inside it, there's a tiny wire inside that is heated up. Air moving over the wire cools it and changes its resistance, so the amount of air moving past can be calculated. That's why it's fragile - and dealers want about $400 for it. Clean it - carefully - and see if that helps.
Hey Tony thanks for the advice. Yeah I cleaned the MAF with the correct cleaner ($20 a can or something!) it certainly idled a lot smoother as it was full of a black soot. I've rans a diesel injector cleaner through it over the past two tanks with no relief. I'm also now only using the BP ultimate diesel. The problem all sort of started soon after a trip to the snow. I thought it could possibly be the extended running times or also the alpine diesel fouling the scv.
No codes for the turbo actuator/hoses. You'll notice that you're not getting boost (which means no power).
Alpine diesel shouldn't clog up the works but normal diesel used in very cold climates CAN clog up the works as the diesel forms wax crystals due to the cold.
Don't worry about the extended running times. We've towed our (previous 1.8T) caravan from central SA starting at 4:30am and finishing in central Victoria at 10:30pm only stopping for quick meals and fuel. She can handle that!
Alpine diesel shouldn't clog up the works but normal diesel used in very cold climates CAN clog up the works as the diesel forms wax crystals due to the cold.
Don't worry about the extended running times. We've towed our (previous 1.8T) caravan from central SA starting at 4:30am and finishing in central Victoria at 10:30pm only stopping for quick meals and fuel. She can handle that!
Okay sounds like the hoses maybe a good starting place and see if there is any change. That's a trip and half!!
Should I be heading into nissan for some genuine hoses or a trip down to repco? I know how these navaras can be with after market parts.
Thanks again Tony.
Any auto parts supplier (Repco/Autobahn/SCA etc) can supply the hose. It's standard 3mm hose from memory. You should have leftovers from 3m of it.
Ok thanks Tony, I had a quick look and the hose doesn't look too bad but there could be some hairline cracks in them. I'll replace them anyway just as maintenance. It also idles rough some times. I just check and it jumps around at about 750rpm.
Well I replaced the hoses and no luck. Ended up getting a scv. Pulled out the wheel arch and wheel off to get at the old one. Cracked the hex bolt on the engine side (the hard one to get at) no worries! Then spent the best part of 6 hours trying to get the easy one out! Someone has had a go at it before me and burred the whole head out of it. Can't even get it with long nose vice grips. Any ideas? I'm thinking just taking it down to the mechanic to deal with it. I'll get new brake pads while it's down there as I don't play around with brakes!
That's annoying, it's possible that the SCV had been diagnosed as a problem before, and someone attempted to undo that with pliers or something? Or a dodgy shifter, seen that round off bolt head enough times. If you can get a Dremel near it you could cut a slot in the bolt head and use a flat bladed screwdriver to get it out (an impact screwdriver is even better because they don't let go and twist themselves out of the slot).
Otherwise, a mechanic - who might drill it and use an ezy-out - or have some special widget that scares the bolt out of the thing.
Brake pads are another issue too. We were coming down the hills on Thunderbolts Way today and spent a considerable time on the brakes. Ended up getting a wicked shimmy when the brakes were hot, with the pedal pulsating under my foot. I have a feeling that there's either a weak or a 'cold' spot on one of the front rotors causing the issue. I have some slotted rotors - starting tomorrow, I'm doing some front end work on my own car, including replacement of all vac hoses, removal & cleaning of intercooler, checking of turbocharger (considering getting a bearing & seal kit) and re-fitting the catch can I bought all those years ago ...
Otherwise, a mechanic - who might drill it and use an ezy-out - or have some special widget that scares the bolt out of the thing.
Brake pads are another issue too. We were coming down the hills on Thunderbolts Way today and spent a considerable time on the brakes. Ended up getting a wicked shimmy when the brakes were hot, with the pedal pulsating under my foot. I have a feeling that there's either a weak or a 'cold' spot on one of the front rotors causing the issue. I have some slotted rotors - starting tomorrow, I'm doing some front end work on my own car, including replacement of all vac hoses, removal & cleaning of intercooler, checking of turbocharger (considering getting a bearing & seal kit) and re-fitting the catch can I bought all those years ago ...
Wow! What rig have you got Tony? I've been told of a guy called central Coast thread repair and he is a Mobile guy who deals with problem screws so I'll give him a call tomorrow and see if he can get it out. It might be cross threaded too so he might have re tap it
DeanosD22
Member
hi biskit, u might have a bit of difficulty getting hold of central coast thread repair as he sold his business about 12 months ago. I use to use him a lot through work
Cheers Deano
Cheers Deano
I've got a 2009 D40 (as per my garage) and we were towing the 2.5T caravan you see in my sig below.
You could get in touch with Big Kev's Automotive 0423 187 049 who also specialises in thread repair on motor vehicles. He;s from Richmond, found his ad on Gumtree.
You could get in touch with Big Kev's Automotive 0423 187 049 who also specialises in thread repair on motor vehicles. He;s from Richmond, found his ad on Gumtree.
Great news guys. Paul from cctr came round. He wasn't able to get it out as he was pressed for time but gave me a trick to get it and sure enough I had it out in half hour. I haven't given the car a good run but it still seems to be down on power and surging up past 2000rpm. It is idling better though. I'll take it for a good spin this arvo and see how it goes. I did notice that the pipe leading into the throttle body had a lot of gunk and crap leading down the underside of it? Doesn't seem to be an oil leak though
Black_Outlaw
Member
Reset your Fuel pump - it's now dealing with a different flow-rate from the SCV. It's imperative you do the reset / relearn.
It's a pretty simple procedure - or just remove the positive battery lead for 10 minutes. It can, and does, make the world of difference
It's a pretty simple procedure - or just remove the positive battery lead for 10 minutes. It can, and does, make the world of difference
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