free wheeling hubs

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Gozza

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Oct 7, 2010
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Location
Perth Northern Suburbs WA
A Quick question to all the bright clever knowledgable members eg everyone.Where and can you get free wheeling hud ( Manual one on the front wheel bearing ) for a 2010 d40. Want to be able to use low range on bitumin moving around boat and camper.
A big thanks to all. I'm in perth wa so anything local greatly appreciated.Thanks
:wash_truck:
 
There would have to be two solenoids, one for 4x4/4x2 and one for hi/lo, can't you just wire in a switch on the 4x4/4x2 solenoid wire?
 
There would have to be two solenoids, one for 4x4/4x2 and one for hi/lo, can't you just wire in a switch on the 4x4/4x2 solenoid wire?

That was discussed on here somewhere too, someone said that it won't work, can't remember why.
 
Dion that's a good idea. I'll have a look at the electricals and see if there's a chance.

It'll be something coming from the TCM (Transmission Control Module) which is located inside the sump of the auto box and God knows where in the manual.
 
I'm talking manual gearboxes right now because the torque convertor in the auto makes reversing a 2.5T boat up a 10 degree driveway with a blind 90 degree turn just that bit easier than in the manual.

I read what Bluester said in the other thread and he is saying you can't follow the Pathfinder method to do it, but there should be no reason you can't do it on the Navara even if it uses a servo linked to a mechanical selector.

There are two options, the first is to work out if the wiring on the transfer case is external, if it is you can just break into that, install a normally closed relay with a switch in the cab to break the relay open and that's it - warranty successfully voided.

The second is the in-cab selector switch. It has to be a two pole triple throw switch so you can select 2hi, 4hi, and 4lo, doesn't it? So one of the wires into it will be either ground or 12V depending on how Mr Nissan felt the day he penned the D40, one will be illumination, one will be for the hi/lo servo and one will be for the 4/2 servo? Break into the last one.
 
The little buggers put sensors inside the transfer case to determine whether or not the transfer case has finished obeying the switch in the cabin. That means you'd probably have to break into the case and fool the sensor as well.

Yes there's a clutch, a selector fork and ring for engaging 4WD & 2WD. It looks like the system can only go into 4WD-LO if it is already in 4WD-HI. I don't think it's capable of going directly to low range without it being in 4WD-HI - while the selector for LO-HI is a separate device to the selector for 2WD-4WD, I don't think the LO-HI selector can move unless 4WD has been engaged.
 
More bother. There's a subsystem that checks the revolution speed of the front wheels in comparison to the rear wheels. If there's a disparity between these it will flash the 4WD lamp once every 2 seconds. I am not 100% certain, but I think the front sensor is on the output of the transfer case for the front wheel.

By having the vehicle in 4WD-LO mode but "switched" into 2WD by hacking the thing, the ECU may look at the front output, see the mismatch with the rear and consider the difference too large. If it does that, it could put the vehicle in limp mode or shut it off.

Apart from having a means to disengage the clutch in the LSD on the front diff, I don't see a way around this.
 
The little buggers put sensors inside the transfer case to determine whether or not the transfer case has finished obeying the switch in the cabin. That means you'd probably have to break into the case and fool the sensor as well.

Measure resistance/continuity across the sensor in each position and replicate?

Yes there's a clutch, a selector fork and ring for engaging 4WD & 2WD. It looks like the system can only go into 4WD-LO if it is already in 4WD-HI. I don't think it's capable of going directly to low range without it being in 4WD-HI - while the selector for LO-HI is a separate device to the selector for 2WD-4WD, I don't think the LO-HI selector can move unless 4WD has been engaged.

So it's a mechanical lock-out by the looks of it? Any way to engage 4lo and go back to 2 without leaving lo?

I think we just passed the threshold of effort most people are willing to go to to get 2lo. :sarcastic:
 
More bother. There's a subsystem that checks the revolution speed of the front wheels in comparison to the rear wheels. If there's a disparity between these it will flash the 4WD lamp once every 2 seconds. I am not 100% certain, but I think the front sensor is on the output of the transfer case for the front wheel.

By having the vehicle in 4WD-LO mode but "switched" into 2WD by hacking the thing, the ECU may look at the front output, see the mismatch with the rear and consider the difference too large. If it does that, it could put the vehicle in limp mode or shut it off.

Apart from having a means to disengage the clutch in the LSD on the front diff, I don't see a way around this.

If the hubs are always locked in there will be limited disparity, somewhere in the region of 2-3% whilst performing tight cornering which is probably within the limit of the accuracy of the sensors anyway?

Does the D40 have a front LSD? With the hubs always locked in it must be a pig in Coles carparks.
 
Measure resistance/continuity across the sensor in each position and replicate?

Perhaps, but my next post reveals yet another check they've thrown in.

So it's a mechanical lock-out by the looks of it? Any way to engage 4lo and go back to 2 without leaving lo?

I think we just passed the threshold of effort most people are willing to go to to get 2lo. :sarcastic:

I think you might be able to disengage the clutch gear which will stop it engaging the chain that transfers rotation to the front shaft. What that will do to the ECU is anybody's guess. The Transfer Control Unit may just send a fatal error code up to the ECU and shut the whole damn thing down.

It might be worth experimenting on. I'll keep looking through the diagrams, sooner or later I will find the clutch solenoid wiring and will be able to interfere with it, possibly making up a harness that plugs between that allows the insertion of a switch/relay.
 
Yeah not a bad idea! :big_smile:

I'm just looking through the electrics relating to the various control units and I've spied a few (4) relays under the bonnet that deal with the transfer case and I'm wondering what the result of playing with these would be.

Transfer shutoff relay 1
Transfer shutoff relay 2
Transfer shift low relay
Transfer shift high relay

Now I'm thinking the first two might be ones we could pop out and see if the thing drops into 2LO. That's something I can do!
 
Well lads thanks fo the time and effort. D40 fromnt end is a banjo diff. d40 diffs on 2010 models are larger than the 22s .their are no sensors after the front wheel bearings and the sensors only activate after the touque limits are reached. Free wheeling hubs are attached at the wheel bearinds and should have kown effect on sensors. In short no has yet to manufacture them. It's all abnout supply and demand. If enough guys and girls want the ability to use low range on hard ground (manual gbox and slow moving and save wear and tear then i am shore some bunny in anengineering shop could build one. Thanks for alll your help. Obviously no quick fix. cheers, and time for another coldy.
 
Ok dragging up and old thread but I'm after someone/anyone with a bit more know how to find the right wire. Going into 2lo for means of reversing a trailer etc with a manual box is a good thing. I was put onto this pathfinder thread from a top bloke in a caravan forum on someone who has done this somewhat successfully with his pathfinder which is as simple as switching one solitary wire. Now just which is the right on for the nav? Here is the thread http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2269&p=45856&hilit=4lo+rear#p45856

Cheers
Matt
 
Ok dragging up and old thread but I'm after someone/anyone with a bit more know how to find the right wire. Going into 2lo for means of reversing a trailer etc with a manual box is a good thing. I was put onto this pathfinder thread from a top bloke in a caravan forum on someone who has done this somewhat successfully with his pathfinder which is as simple as switching one solitary wire. Now just which is the right on for the nav? Here is the thread http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2269&p=45856&hilit=4lo+rear#p45856

Cheers
Matt

Old Tony and I were talking about this. And for we could come up with. Its not possable. And If someone can find a way its going to bloody hard/costly job.
 
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