Exhaust manifold gasket retorque?

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Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket on the daught's d40 ... only success I have ever had with exhaust manufold gaskets on my AU Falcon have included retorqueing after a few trips when the gasket settles in. This doesn't look possible without completely removing the turbo and heat shield a second time on the yd25? As half these nuts are loose already, I am guessing retorquing wasn't done after installation of what appears may have been a reco engine at some stage (warranty void metal disc glued in the welsch plug).

Are there any tricks to avoiding a retorque of the manifold nuts, or should I just be writing off next weekend to the process right now?
 
more than likely it simply wasn't torqued (or tightened) to start with.
they are normally pricks of things to get off. they may have replaced them with steel ones. check if they are magnetic, or if you have some off check the weight.

i've done a few and none have ever come loose.
 
... they may have replaced them with steel ones. check if they are magnetic ...
All but one are magnetic. The non-magnetic was probably the tightest, come to think of it; apart from the two on the egr tube flange that required heat.
 
All but one are magnetic. The non-magnetic was probably the tightest, come to think of it; apart from the two on the egr tube flange that required heat.
sounds like they replaced them with steel ones. probably busted them getting them off as titanium tends to gall up on the threads. thats why it pays to use penetration oil on them.
not sure what torque steel ones would require, tho you could hunt around for titanium ones (get some off a dead engine).
 
Knowing how car manufacturers budget, back in 2007, I would be highly surprised to see them choose Ti over steel. Especially on a utility engine.
 

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