EGT/Pyro and boost gauge advice?

[rastik86]

Mate they're 2" wide x 1" high x 3"deep.
Doubt that they will fit straight in the hole without enlarging it.
Other problems I could see would be clear sight to these slots and if the hole was enlarged would the dash pad start to seperate because I think the dash is pastic welded around the seam of the existing rectangular hole.
Also being 3" (75mm) deep you would have to make sure there was enough depth behind the dash to acomodate the gauge and harness.

My bad, thought you meant the slot/shelf below the stereo

 

[bods]

Ah righto, I was trying to avoid those as I found a few guys on here picked up universal pillar pods and trimmed them a bit for $20 to $30 off eBay as opposed to the $120 those are fetching.

Do they fit real well or bit off piss farting around? I'd almost go one for convenience if they were a perfect fit, but would be a shame to outlay that much cash for convenience sake and they are still a prick to fit

They do fit really well, they are moulded to fit either on top of the existing pillar trim cover or you could probably araldyte clips onto the back of it and remove the existing trim. They do come with double sided tape to stick them over the factory trim, which I didn't have much luck with, but I didn't use any wax and grease remover or anything to try and clean it first, which was probably why......

You could try the eBay ones, they probably wouldn't look too bad if you fiberglassed or plastic welded them onto the factory trim and sanded it back and painted it, I've seen someone do that to a d40 in the center of the dash and it looked quite good...

 

[rastik86]

They do fit really well, they are moulded to fit either on top of the existing pillar trim cover or you could probably araldyte clips onto the back of it and remove the existing trim. They do come with double sided tape to stick them over the factory trim, which I didn't have much luck with, but I didn't use any wax and grease remover or anything to try and clean it first, which was probably why......

You could try the eBay ones, they probably wouldn't look too bad if you fiberglassed or plastic welded them onto the factory trim and sanded it back and painted it, I've seen someone do that to a d40 in the center of the dash and it looked quite good...

Cheers bods

Sounds like a lot of mucking around with the universal one. The coin they are asking for a D22 specific one may be money well spent and I am thinking the placement of a sneaky little black screw between the pods may be able to help hold it in position

 

[fudly]

would you need the egt to start at 0 ?? would it matter to much if the first digit was 200 you wouldn't really need anything below that would you?

 

[1310/71]

would you need the egt to start at 0 ?? would it matter to much if the first digit was 200 you wouldn't really need anything below that would you?

Correct. You're not really worried about temps below that and it will get there pretty quick anyhow. You don't need to go super high either. The most I've heard people talk about on here is below 700C.

 

[tweak'e]

would you need the egt to start at 0 ?? would it matter to much if the first digit was 200 you wouldn't really need anything below that would you?

i have one that started at 200. it was a pain in the arse simply because it never moved for a lot of the time.
0 is much better. its interesting to see how cold the egt's go. also i use the egt gauge as a turbo timer. eg wait till egt temp goes down enough before turning engine off.

with the zd30 i can get as low as 50c going downhill.

 

[fudly]

what would be a safe egt temp to shut down the engine?? would it be below the 200

 

[tweak'e]

150c minimum.

 

[fudly]

150c minimum.

is that the max safe temp for engine shut down or can you safely shut it down higher without any damage??

 

[bods]

I normally shut mine down at around 300f, measured in the dump pipe, so that's around 150c... I have a turbo timer too and just adjust the time to give it roughly enough idle time to get it down there... Normal driving usually takes less than a minute, driving not overly hard but hardish, maybe 1min 30sec - 2min is plenty...

 

[tweak'e]

is that the max safe temp for engine shut down or can you safely shut it down higher without any damage??

its a little debatable.
thats a good temp, tho i know some that wait till 100c. but that takes a really long time.

damage, shutting it off at high temp is not going to instantly blow the turbo.
it will depend a fair bit on what oil is used. the hotter it is the more heat soak it gets when you shut it off. that heat soak can boil the oil causing it to form carbon on the shaft/bearings. the carbon is what does the damage.
the oil has additives in which help stop that to a degree.

so 150c is good for long term use but its not going to blow because you shut it off in a hurry once or twice.

 

[adamp]

150c minimum.

when you say 150c min. is that manifold or dump pipe?

 

[tweak'e]

when you say 150c min. is that manifold or dump pipe?

i don't think it matters to much. the navara was dump pipe but toyo its pre turbo. both are fairly similar in idle temps.
ideally i would use a sensor bolted onto the turbo centre.

 

[rastik86]

Thanks for all the help fellas!

Do any of you know roughly how much it cost to have a thread for the probe put in by an exhaust mob?

The rest I'm gonna have a crack at myself!

With so much info from you guys and the range of pods and gauges available (and having played with a wire or 2 many a time) should be a nice little weekend task

 

[mike1303]

what do you guys think about this one??
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_26&products_id=231

its $3 more then the other one they list, something about the probe.... ANy ideas?

also can the guy whohas this gauge post a pic of the mounting point?
cheers mick

 

[bods]

Thanks for all the help fellas!

Do any of you know roughly how much it cost to have a thread for the probe put in by an exhaust mob?

The rest I'm gonna have a crack at myself!

With so much info from you guys and the range of pods and gauges available (and having played with a wire or 2 many a time) should be a nice little weekend task

Shouldn't be too much. In saying that, I used the hose clamp setup for attaching the probe on mine and it has been fine for the 3 odd years the gauge has been in and it is fine. It was supposed to be temporary until I put a different dump pipe on, then I was either going to pull the turbo and drill and tap the manifold to put it pre turbo or weld a bung onto the dump pipe if it didn't have one...

 

[tweak'e]

what do you guys think about this one??
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_26&products_id=231

its $3 more then the other one they list, something about the probe.... ANy ideas?

also can the guy whohas this gauge post a pic of the mounting point?
cheers mick

that one has the sealed tip.

the cheaper one is exposed tip which is meant to be faster reacting, but the tip can get damaged. the sealed one is more reliable.

i'm running the exposed tip with no problems.

 

[mike1303]

that one has the sealed tip.

the cheaper one is exposed tip which is meant to be faster reacting, but the tip can get damaged. the sealed one is more reliable.

i'm running the exposed tip with no problems.

Thanks is for that !! I had no idea what I was looking at.
How did you mount yr probe?
I'm thing the clamp on type is the easiest

 

[dilmah]

I run the exact same guage im mine Mike1303, no problems at all. I tapped mine into the dump pipe as it was easier to get to. Whole job took 1/2 hour.

 

[mike1303]

I run the exact same guage im mine Mike1303, no problems at all. I tapped mine into the dump pipe as it was easier to get to. Whole job took 1/2 hour.

So i can buy the one with a thredded end and tap the dump pipe and just screw it in?
Or just as easily get the clamp on type?

its really that simple?