E-Locker issue...

[rsgooch]

So I did something stupid and I need ideas about next steps. So I have had e-lockers installed a few months ago and I was not sure if they were working so in my great wisdom I decided to pop my Nav in 4wd in a parking lot and turn on the front locker. The stupid thing was the wheels were not straight. Before you start calling me names I know that was stupid so I don't need anymore people telling me that. I could not disengage the locker and I could not straight out the wheels after a serious arm workout I manage to get normal steering back. I now am pretty sure I have f****ed the front locker. This is were you guys and girls come in. Can this be repaired? Does this prevent me from going into 4wd. I like a lot of people know what a locker is but not %100 sure how they work. I did not hear any thing pop or give way when the steering came back but turning on the locker now does not make the steering stiff like it was when I was testing so I am assuming it is stuffed. Any ideas would be very helpful.

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[bods]

I'd suspect the transfer case chain more than the locker. The locker will be a lot stronger than the transfer chain. Do you still have 4wd working correctly without activating the locker or not?

 

[ben85]

Anything can be fixed... just add $$$.

I reckon you would have heard something if it broke.

Try taking it for a drive - offroad and see how it goes.

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[rsgooch]

I know it has been a while but I wanted to let you know the outcome. So after taking the car in for a different drive line issue. The guys checked the front diff and the fuse was loose. Reseated the fuse and works fine. Did not lose 4wd by the way.

Thanks for the help.

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[bods]

Sounds a bit weird to me, but anyway. At least it was a good outcome...

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[Old.Tony]

I'm having recurring problems with precisely the same thing affecting 3 different systems.

1) The fuse to my driving lights was 30A (more than enough) but the spade connectors don't connect enough metal together so now they're overheating and the entire casing has melted. They still work, but they're a little erratic.

2) The 80A relay providing power to the rear. My power demands are around the 35A mark. I have a 40A thermal breaker (which I discovered is cracked) but the relay's tabs are corroding in the engine bay. New relay, spray protector = fixed.

3) The Engel-supplied fuse for my Engel. It corrodes up, I clean it and spray protector. It corrodes again. What? Yep. Going to cut the bugger off the cable and do it MY way (Anderson plug on a custom distribution board with fuse mount).

The problem always seems to be the tabs of the fuses themselves. They're cheap, they give off a white powder oxide like aluminium does.

Did you spray yours to seal it up?