D40 Power Loss Black Smoke

[josho85]

Hi All,

Just joined the forum today in desperation.

I have searched high and low, and have parted with some serious $ and effort in hopes of fixing my D40 Navara, 2006 model.

Legacy Issues:
Under Heavy Acceleration, the engine would either do one of three things -
1. Go into Limp Mode with Next to zero power.
2. Go into semi-limp mode, blow heaps of smoke, with 40% power.
3. Be Absolutely fine, maybe 20% of the time.

Once I turn engine off, then back on again the problem clears.

I have taken the Navara to many different places including Nissan and the problem remains - I have just dealt with this for the last 3 years by simply restarting the engine and learnt to live with it.

The other day however, it seems that another problem has developed.

I now produce very little power under 2500RPM, at which point the boost seems to kick in, and I spew black smoke (rich mix) as I take off down the road. Above 2500rpm, the power is fine except for a high level of smoke.

The Scan Brought up the following codes:
Fuel Leak High Pressure (This code is new, since the recent power loss under 2500RPM)
Turbo Pressure Solenoid (This code is old, I have replaced the solenoid before - I would probably disregard this error as I have always had it)

Nissan's Position
They state that the problem is caused by either Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Fuel Rail, Injectors, ECU, Turbo (duh, they have covered everything) Not helpful

Diesel Injector Specialist
They state that it could be the injectors, and propose that they be replaced (at a cost of $3000AUD) I think they are just guessing

Forums
Little help so far - some say it a Vacuum Gauge in the Fuel Pump?!?!?

A couple of other diesel mechs
They say it could be bad fuel

So as you can see, I am still no closer to an answer, and do not want to replace every component in hopes that I get the right one eventually.

PLEASE HELP

Cheers

Josh
Australia

 

[josho85]

Can someone recommend a trusted Nissan navara Specialist in melbourne, Australia that I can take this vehicle to?

 

[ONLOCK]

being a 2006 model id say its injectors, there prone to dying, and worth about 600 ea aftermarket, what side of town you on will be a good start to giving you a recomended workshop. have you tried running some injector cleaner through the system, iv heard good results on this, even a diesel engine flush

 

[ONLOCK]

also check the joins on the intercooler piping to see if you can see any oil that has sprayed out, if so you have a boost leak which can create problems, could be an idea to pull out your intercooler and clean it out (they fill up with oil from the breather from the rocker cover) and possibly replace the silicon hoses and clamps

 

[Old.Tony]

Welcome to the forum.

+1 on Onlock's advice, and try driving around with the fuel cap loose (don't tighten it up much at all).

Thinking a little more about it - it runs poorly below boost, then runs really rich - it's like it can't get the fuel mix right. It could be a MAF sensor that's just dirty - this is just a couple of centimetres outside the air filter on the tube heading to the turbo. It's on the back. Gently remove it and spray it thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner (Jaycar, electrical distributors).

The MAFS sensor provides both air flow and air temperature to the ECU, so that it can tell how much fuel to inject.

There's also the boost sensor down on the intercooler but something tells me that isn't going to be it.

I'd love to put my Torque application to use on your car and see the results of taking it for a drive.

Give that MAFS sensor a clean - it's cheap to clean, about $400 to replace - it might help.

 

[user 10312]

Welcome to the forum.

+1 on Onlock's advice, and try driving around with the fuel cap loose (don't tighten it up much at all).

Thinking a little more about it - it runs poorly below boost, then runs really rich - it's like it can't get the fuel mix right. It could be a MAF sensor that's just dirty - this is just a couple of centimetres outside the air filter on the tube heading to the turbo. It's on the back. Gently remove it and spray it thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner (Jaycar, electrical distributors).

The MAFS sensor provides both air flow and air temperature to the ECU, so that it can tell how much fuel to inject.

There's also the boost sensor down on the intercooler but something tells me that isn't going to be it.

I'd love to put my Torque application to use on your car and see the results of taking it for a drive.

Give that MAFS sensor a clean - it's cheap to clean, about $400 to replace - it might help.

I not familiar with this particular engine- yet but yes, Try the easy things first and that is an excelent start. However the things that will massively alter the the air fuel ratio. So MAF. Throttle postion, Engine Speed. Things like air temp, and coolant temp have small effect on A.F.R.
Good Luck

 

[josho85]

Thanks so much for all the feedback.

Strangely enough, I hopped in the car this morning and the problem has vanished - at least for the time being.

This would indicate something electrical, the plot thickens.

I'm anticipating the problem returning - until then it will be difficult to diagnose...

 

[jace3.0td]

this little baby is causing most d40 fueling probs,nissan just change complete pump at mega bucks
http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=25685
the uk sites free to join and plenty dual members and plenty 2.5 info worth sharing across

 

[edwinnjara]

hi guyz i have the navara of my friend has a issue of power , it run up to 20 mph only, what is the issue

 

[Old.Tony]

Hi Edwinnjara, it could be a number of things that can cause that. Are there any strange noises, lots of smoke, lights on the instrument panel that you can tell us about?

 

[t.jarvis]

came across a customers car doing the same thing on Wednesday, found the egr valve stuck open which caused the engine to go into self protection"limp" mode, which is when the engine gets overfilled and boost is cut, if it were a petrol vehicle the ignition would be retarded, check the egr is fully seated. Cost the customer $800 plus labour to repair. hope this helps

 

[Rhyno]

I just had the ole' loss of power and heaps of "rollin coal" (blacksmoke)and found the EGR valve has broken off the shaft. So im welding it back on and blanking it off.

 

[camo.b]

Yesterday i had the old no power after 2600rpm and heaps black smoke../limp mode.was fine untill 2600rpm then the boost would be cut and the smoke would appear.pretty embarasing...as im chipped and ive been giving the rail pressure relief valve a bit of a nudge here and there..i had a clue where to look...normally i get the fuel leak code but laitly i havnt been getting anything..mystery....i started with removing and shimming the rail valve with another 2.5mm shim.refitted it and im back to normal...
One thing i did notice was a tiny bit of white goo in the entry to the releif valve almost blocking the hole..normally this is a good thing but i think in my case it may have been unseating the internal ball just enough to make it purge with a bit of rail pressure..hence the limp mode

 

[camo.b]

Yep definatly fixed my problems.

 

[happy john]

Ha Cam white goo in the hole I just spilt my beer. But good work finding this out
HJ.

 

[camo.b]

Hahahha...similar consistancy too!!
was a good day today.

 

[happy john]

Ha sorry for the sarcasm I am still wondering about uploading my rig at full noise I think it will be a downer for the forum and will check with admin first. The last thing I want is to stir anyone up, I still say 159hp done safely shows what the basic yd 25 can do in d22 form.

 

[camo.b]

Love the sarcasm mate!!
If it was me id upload...but i think diffrently to most.quick ask is always a good thing tho.

 

[happy john]

Love the sarcasm mate!!
If it was me id upload...but i think diffrently to most.quick ask is always a good thing tho.

Yeah the only problem is 180 on a public road I don't want to upload here. I might do the 0 to 100 though after I sent a copy to Sparra,Jasen and Tony for their approval first. Have a great week Cam.

 

[camo.b]

Cheers john