D40 oil changes

[ozzkev]

hi i have posted a thread on this topic and the penrite oil i got a little spooked by it, in the past i have always used Penrite oils in diesels but never owning a diesel with a DPF before its a real learning curve, I actually went to nissan and got everything to spec, and yes it now is noisy on startup till the oil light goes out (second or two) up till now it has never done it, it all has to do oil pressure, i like to hear any ideas as to why seen it has only had an oil change

Next question i suppose is really esp having a DPF what the heaviest oil ? and using the genuine oil filter etc to me it seems like it has to do with the oil draing back and when it is started it clatters till oil lights goes out

 

[Old.Tony]

The manual suggests 5W30 in winter and up to 10W40 can be used in summer.

The main criteria for DPF-equipped engines is the low-ash formulation of the oil. It has to meet JASO-FD or API-CF4 spec.

This is because the blow-by pushes some oil out the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) into the air intake (the hose connects to the air intake just in before the inlet of the turbocharger). That oil is ingested by the motor and combusted - if it is NOT a low ash formula, it will allow large particles to accumulate on the DPF and block it.

If you didn't have a DPF you could use a less expensive oil - most of these low-ash formula oils are fully synthetic. Removing the DPF has other challenges, because the ECU thinks it is there and needs a squirt of fuel every now and again to burn off the soot.

You can fit a catch can to reduce the oil being fed back to the motor - and that's a good idea for any vehicle.

 

[user 10312]

Did you end up using the genuine filter Kev?
As you mentioned it's probably more to do with the oil draining back.

 

[ozzkev]

yes i used an originall filter .... just a little puzzled why its doing it now and not before so maybe the previous owner was using 10w40 .... as for a catch can whats involved in fitting that ?

 

[Old.Tony]

The catch can should be mounted somewhere forward of the radiator - the cooler it is, the more oil will condense inside it. Extend the hoses from where they are now to the catch can and the job is done.

You can modify the catch can (highly recommended) to help it catch more oil - most cans are just hollow containers with inlet and outlet at the top. Forcing the inlet to the bottom of the can and then providing some material for the oil to condense on (stainless steel wool works well) significantly improves the can's ability to remove oil from the stream of gas.

 

[SLAC]

Isnt JASO-FD two stroke oil for marine/bikes? And CF4 obsolet now?

 

[Old.Tony]

The oil can be rated regardless of whether it's intended to be mixed in fuel or combusted through PCV ingestion.

Nissan use FD-rated oil (at an additional cost of $45) for DPF vehicles compared to FC-rated oil used in other diesels.

The API spec is listed in the manual. We may be exclusively using the Japanese standard now, but you'd do better asking someone in the industry. I only know what's in the manual and what the service manager says he's putting in my car and why (which happens to correspond with the manual).