Mate seriously if you think our navaras are as strong as a landcruiser or a patrol you've never ever done any serious off roading. I have owned 2 navaras and 3 patrols and its apples and oranges. They both have there purposes but in terms of strength and off road ability the big girls win hands down . Have a look in terms of gearbox size , driveshafts , rear diff size , ground clearance , articulation etc etc . So before saying something like that maybe get some true facts to back it .
D40 Auto tx shudder...or am I dreaming?
- Thread starter Pete22
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Mate seriously if you think our navaras are as strong as a landcruiser or a patrol you've never ever done any serious off roading. I have owned 2 navaras and 3 patrols and its apples and oranges. They both have there purposes but in terms of strength and off road ability the big girls win hands down . Have a look in terms of gearbox size , driveshafts , rear diff size , ground clearance , articulation etc etc . So before saying something like that maybe get some true facts to back it .
Don,t really care about "chirping" or dragging at the lights, gave that sort of expensive hobby away years ago. So getting back to the original question, What is the problem with the original Torque converter? I have the extended warranty so time is no real issue but is this something i should be looking at straight away?
D
Dave
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You have a GU with a RB30DET in it dont you.
There was a guy on Patrol4x4 with the same username as yours.
Dave.
SOLID D22
Member
Iv been out with the big boys heaps of times and iv always come home complete and unbroken, cant say the same for the others, they have at times come home unbroken too but my nav has never let me down so far. Thats 7 years of abuse.
And im not afraid to leave the ground too.
I know the intention of the car is a work ute, but while it has never let me down so far, i cant say i agree with your comment.
No arguments here just stating my experiences.
Cheers.
D
Dave
Guest
Can you post a pic of pics and info somewhere on here or post a link for it as a few other's will wanna read about.
What engine did you get the V6 or the diesel ?
Dave.
What engine did you get the V6 or the diesel ?
Dave.
Sorry to get back on topic -
My 06 D40 ZD25 Auto - with 76000kms on it that I have just bought, has the 80-100kph growl in O/D under load - Its out of warranty so I suspect Nissan wont want to know about it.
Does anyone know about the ATF additive that could fix the problem?
I dont know what oil is in it now but I am going to change it to synthetic ATF
But I would like to know more about the additive and what oil it works with.
My 06 D40 ZD25 Auto - with 76000kms on it that I have just bought, has the 80-100kph growl in O/D under load - Its out of warranty so I suspect Nissan wont want to know about it.
Does anyone know about the ATF additive that could fix the problem?
I dont know what oil is in it now but I am going to change it to synthetic ATF
But I would like to know more about the additive and what oil it works with.
tony
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be careful with the oil the manuals state use nissan j matic only
trav298
Member
Does anyone know if it will do any long term damage leaving the shuddering torque converter in place? Mine does it too but I just give it a bootfull so it kicks down and stops it. Also never tow with the overdrive on so its really just an inconvenience to me more than anything else.
Car is 06 D40 2.5TD Auto with 138,500km. I thought it mighta just been the ute struggling with the 285/75R16 tyres.
Car is 06 D40 2.5TD Auto with 138,500km. I thought it mighta just been the ute struggling with the 285/75R16 tyres.
Somewhere along the line the implication was that the shuddering was caused by the torque converter's locking mechanism engaging and disengaging. Sooner or later, if it's being flicked on and off that rapidly, it's gonna fail.
That means - in the best case - your torque converter will behave like the torque converters of old, and never "clamp" to the engine rpm. There'll always be a little bit of slip, your fuel economy will be worse and you'll think the car has lost some power. Worst case, the thing will drop shards of metal in there and start ruining things big-time.
The vibration could also do some damage with bearing surfaces. I doubt Nissan would go to the trouble and expense of replacing the converter unless there were other issues. I have no idea how much they cost either, but hearing the cost of other bits ($1,200 for the steering wheel, $4,000 for a fuel pump) I'm sorta dreading the thought of what the converter would cost!
That means - in the best case - your torque converter will behave like the torque converters of old, and never "clamp" to the engine rpm. There'll always be a little bit of slip, your fuel economy will be worse and you'll think the car has lost some power. Worst case, the thing will drop shards of metal in there and start ruining things big-time.
The vibration could also do some damage with bearing surfaces. I doubt Nissan would go to the trouble and expense of replacing the converter unless there were other issues. I have no idea how much they cost either, but hearing the cost of other bits ($1,200 for the steering wheel, $4,000 for a fuel pump) I'm sorta dreading the thought of what the converter would cost!
alan_blue
Member
since having changed mine i got heaps better fuel economy
turbogu
Member
Hi All,
As a side note to the shuddering problems i was wondering what everyones stall speed is in the auto navs, Dad has a brand new st dual cab and the convertor feels way too loose,
For a diesel its crap, if you stand still foot on brake and accellorate until the wheels start to turn it stall out to 2500 rpm
All diesel autos ive been in are around 1200-1300 rpm, hell even a petrol will stall lower than that
So being so high it equates to crap fuel econemy cause it fights to find gears going up hill, drives like ***** and is pathetically gutless
My 6sp will litterally pull him up hills quicker than his would drive
Like i said its brand new, less than 5000k on the clock
Just trying to get some info before we hit up the dealer
As a side note to the shuddering problems i was wondering what everyones stall speed is in the auto navs, Dad has a brand new st dual cab and the convertor feels way too loose,
For a diesel its crap, if you stand still foot on brake and accellorate until the wheels start to turn it stall out to 2500 rpm
All diesel autos ive been in are around 1200-1300 rpm, hell even a petrol will stall lower than that
So being so high it equates to crap fuel econemy cause it fights to find gears going up hill, drives like ***** and is pathetically gutless
My 6sp will litterally pull him up hills quicker than his would drive
Like i said its brand new, less than 5000k on the clock
Just trying to get some info before we hit up the dealer
JPMC
Member
The workshop manual says 2700 - 3100rpm for the diesel.
turbogu
Member
Cheers mate, geez thats high for a diesel, guess he will have to live with it then!!
I took my caravan for a run on the weekend and noticed I have the shudder issue with my Navara, as it's a 2007 and 85k I guess I'll be on my own with this. Does anyone have any information on the addative that may help ?
the_bluester
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With regard to the torque converter issue, it has been known for quote a while. I have an 05 R51 Pathfinder and the issue started to be seen not long after we got it. In our case the car is out to 180,000km without any issue. I can see the point in the torque converter issue of only fixing the ones that do it rather than wholesale changing converters in thousands and thousands of cars, only a small percentage of which will actually come up with a problem that is only slightly more than annoying.
D40/R51 clutches on the other hand!
They should have recalled them I reckon given that D40/R51 clutch stories are about as common as ZD30 Patrol hand grenade stories. I have always suspected that they either have a set up problem and the clutch hydraulics are not self adjusting properly on all cars (Which will lead to a total failure pretty quickly if the self adjust stops happening) or they are simply under rated for the torque output to keep the pedal feel nice and soft.
D40/R51 clutches on the other hand!
They should have recalled them I reckon given that D40/R51 clutch stories are about as common as ZD30 Patrol hand grenade stories. I have always suspected that they either have a set up problem and the clutch hydraulics are not self adjusting properly on all cars (Which will lead to a total failure pretty quickly if the self adjust stops happening) or they are simply under rated for the torque output to keep the pedal feel nice and soft.
bump, anyone with any ideas re the addative?
Additive
A nissan mechanic told me they were having good results with the NULON automatic additive. (supposed to smooth things up etc.) I haven't used it personally.
I don't think it is the same product the nissan agents are using though probably getting the same results.
Rd's
Burgohttp://www.navara.asia/images/icons/icon6.gif
A nissan mechanic told me they were having good results with the NULON automatic additive. (supposed to smooth things up etc.) I haven't used it personally.
I don't think it is the same product the nissan agents are using though probably getting the same results.
Rd's
Burgohttp://www.navara.asia/images/icons/icon6.gif
