Hi all , my 2006 D22 ZD30 will not start . Returned home , unpacked vehicle , an hour later went to start will crank over but not start . Checked fault codes , reading 0703 pump communication line . Will not clear . No previous problems . 147000 KM on the clock .Any hints besides new pump ? Thanks .
d22 zd30 start fault
- Thread starter andyw
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
It's likely to have a Bosch VP44 fuel pump. Looks like there's a small electronic component inside the pump's control board that lets go which is the common cause of failure. But before we go throwing away the pump ...
If the engine hasn't even kicked, it'd be worth disconnecting the glows and popping a glow plug out after a couple of seconds' cranking and see if the plug's wet. If it's wet then you're getting fuel, while you have that glow out check the compression of that cylinder (then check all the others, writing down the figures - look for large variations between cylinders).
If the glow's not getting wet there are two possibilities: failed pump (common) or injector open commands aren't working (either the ECU isn't issuing them - timing fault? or the injector harness is loose/dirty/damaged.
It's worth going over the electrical connections to things like the crankcase/camshaft position sensors and all of the injectors - unplug them and plug 'em back in first, might just be some debris/oxidisation. Check battery connections (both terminals of the battery, and the connection to the engine block).
That's a start, anyway.
If the engine hasn't even kicked, it'd be worth disconnecting the glows and popping a glow plug out after a couple of seconds' cranking and see if the plug's wet. If it's wet then you're getting fuel, while you have that glow out check the compression of that cylinder (then check all the others, writing down the figures - look for large variations between cylinders).
If the glow's not getting wet there are two possibilities: failed pump (common) or injector open commands aren't working (either the ECU isn't issuing them - timing fault? or the injector harness is loose/dirty/damaged.
It's worth going over the electrical connections to things like the crankcase/camshaft position sensors and all of the injectors - unplug them and plug 'em back in first, might just be some debris/oxidisation. Check battery connections (both terminals of the battery, and the connection to the engine block).
That's a start, anyway.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2022
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 1
Hey Andy,
I have the same or very similar issue with my 06 D22 ZD30 and interested to know what was the outcome?
Hi Shane I tracked it down to being the Injector Pump , everything else checked ok as far as I could tell. In the process of replacing this weekend , will let you know how I went when completed . $3000 for exchange pump which appears to be brand new plus a gasket kit. According to the pump shop they are not much of a pump due to the circuit board on top , they are are in quite a few different makes , they have been doing around 8-10 a week .
I know Tweake has mentioned the pump chip issue quite a few times. It does surprise me that there is not a cheaper option to get a new control module bunged onto your original pump.
I mean if your pump has only done a couple of hundred thousand kay's and it is clearly just the chip/ECU can that not be changed out on its own?
Might be a bit of a risk but for a low k pump surely not a real big one...
I imagine the majority of the reco pump cost is the mechanical rebuild?
I mean if your pump has only done a couple of hundred thousand kay's and it is clearly just the chip/ECU can that not be changed out on its own?
Might be a bit of a risk but for a low k pump surely not a real big one...
I imagine the majority of the reco pump cost is the mechanical rebuild?
![[Replacement] Car Hood Cowl Top Wiper Cowl Grille With Clip for Nissan for Hardbody for Navara D21 for Ute for Pickup 1986-1997 Accessories 66814-0S700 Soggier(1 Pair with 12clips)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41LVoPlvrpL._SL500_.jpg)
It really makes me wonder why it's so hard to fix, if it's just one component on the board that dies ... back when I was selling and maintaining computers, we had a customer who had purchased a bunch of KTX monitors. Each one had under-specified the output transistors and as a result, one or more would fail during operation, causing the monitor to drastically change colour. A simple upgrade from a 100mA transistor to a 1A transistor was all it took, and I had a local electronics technician who did these for me at a reasonable price.
He sold his house and moved, just like we have - but he still operates a business so I could ask him about it. I've never actually seen the VP44 pump, my experience is in reading copious amounts of posts here and elsewhere, and perusing the Nissan manuals for hours on end. The pump on my car is different (and it's sore point is the SCV) so I can't pop the board out and take it to him to get his opinion on it. It might be a worthwhile exercise because it may be as simple as a single component replacement.
That's not to say that the rest of the pump shouldn't be checked over before reinstallation. Is the component dying because the pump's innards are worn and (say) a valve is harder to operate (more electrical current = more strain on the circuit)? We'd need to grab a pump's board, find out what's dying and try replacing it, I guess.
when they change the board they need to program it to the characteristic's of the pump. they run it on the test bench then code the board. the rebuild kit comes with new board as well as all the pump parts.
the early ecu control pumps (ve) had resistors on them for the same reason, then they went to a ROM chip.
That makes sense, no cheap way out then
Hi Shane , sorry for late reply , replaced the pump and it is running beautifully , a pain in the but but finally done . Good luck with your vehicle .
Here: http://www.autoelektronika.co.rs/English/VP44/repair vp 44 pump.doc is some info on repairing the electronics on a Bosch VP44 pump (the one used in the ZD30 engine).
For those that can't click on the link above, try this one:
http://www.autoelektronika.co.rs/English/VP44/repair vp 44 pump.doc
@redkite, thanks for that. Off to read it!
http://www.autoelektronika.co.rs/English/VP44/repair vp 44 pump.doc
@redkite, thanks for that. Off to read it!
^ And while it's not written natively in English, it's pretty good. I'm having some trouble with the red and yellow on the photos (I'm partly colourblind) so it'd need "some repair" for me to use.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2022
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 1
Thanks for the update Andy, good to hear the pump replacement went well. Any critical do’s and don’t’s when replacing the pump besides getting the timing marks right and where did you source the pump?
Cheers, Shane.
Hi Shane , it took what seemed like forever to line up the timing marks , was the hardest part of the job . The main thing is to lock the scissor gear with a 6mm bolt you will have to remove the bung , and I used a 6mm drill for the pump gear alignment . Also had someone pumping the primer pump when cranking on the initial start up . I purchased the pump from Diesel Care Tamworth 02 67653733 , got a pump replacement gasket kit off Ebay . If you are sending your pump exchange make sure you take the flange off the front of the pump [ see the pics ]. Hope this helps .
