D22 fault code 0301 engine cranks and will not start

[MickR]

Hi All,

Ok so firstly a huge thanks to all those who put time and effort into this forum, I have been able to do so much with the information from people on this site.

So long story short. D22 running well, but… cracked head, and the engine light flashing occasionally when you turn the key, with no impact on the starting or running. Replaced head, redid timing off the internal timing gears.

D22 cranks, but will not start. Will start with Aerostart in the induction system, but will not run. Also tachometer now flickers on cranking.

I have fuel at the filter, pumps firm in two or three pumps, I’ve taken the fuel in pipe off and pumped the filter, good flow, I have taken the fuel out line off, fuel flows (small amounts) out, I have cracked injector 1at the pump, fuel come out, but not what I would call squirting out under high pressure. I have cracked fuel line at injector end, again, fuel flows, but not what I would call under pressure.

Crank signal earths are both working, and I don’t get a crank signal fault anymore.

I have checked the fault codes using the 1 and 8 bridge, cleared them, and then only get code 0301.

Here is where I get some crossed info, fault code 0301 refers to PCM or circuit fault? Yet many on the forum say it means the internal ECU on the fuel pump.

So today, I’m going to pull an injector and crank, to see if I’m getting injection.

Two questions -

1. if no injection, have I ruled out enough to just bite the bullet and change the fuel pump, or are there most things I should check.

2. If injection, what else should I be focusing on.

 

[tweak'e]

according to the manual its the main ecu at fault.

no need to pull injectors. it would be squirting from the loose injector pipe if it was firing. maybe there was as short on the crack sensor line and thats fried the ecu.
find a 2nd hand ecu and swap it.
also check the basics like main engine to body/chassis earths.

 

[MickR]

Thanks Tweak’e,

Appreciate the fast response, I have not pulled the injector yet, so I just won’t. A few other questions though, I know the zd30 ECU is pretty simple, but if I replace the ECU, do I need to also replace other items the rely on getting a signal from that Ecu?

Reason I ask, my Triumph 675, needs multiple new items if I swap the Ecu, (or you can try to map them - doesn’t work welll….) I.e. will my Nissan ignition recognize the new Ecu if I swap it, or will it need re mapping, or do I need to also buy the ignition from the same donor as the ecu.

Sorry for the questions, but as I found there is rarely a silly question when it come to black box’s and mechanical things.

And I have just replaced the alternator earth, not reading 0, checking the other engine earths now.

 

[tweak'e]

some talk that there is different part number ecu's that may not work well with the pumps ecu. however people have reported that doesn't appear to be the case, plus the replacement pump ecu is a standard part that works with all of them.

NATS (nissans alarm mobiliser system) is the only thing i can think off that may need redoing, if yours has it. i would have to check the book on that as ours don't have it.

there is no body com modules etc that i'm aware of for these, they are the era before that.

 

[MickR]

Beautiful, thanks Tweak’e, I’ll get hold of an ECU and plug it in

 

[MickR]

Hi all,

Id love to say the new ECU fixed my problem, it did get rid of the 0301 fault code, and the flashing engine light. It did not get rid of the crank, but will not start...

I have no fault codes, i get 0505, which i have read on these pages means no faults. Does any one have a good list of Diesel fault codes, Tweke'e let me know mine are petrol engine related, so of no use to me.

I'm almost lost - with no fault codes, i should have a good fuel flow, so i pulled the No1 injector - no spray, nothing.... i could pull them all, but my level of frustration with this fault is getting to me.

i rechecked flow at the pump by cracking the fuel line and cranking, then re tightening, fuel is coming out of the pump, i took a short video of it. I took the injector off and cranked the engine, not a stream of squirted fuel, just spits and splashes. Seems like fuel pump???? Why no error code????

I come back to my original starting point. The only thing i have changed is the head itself (replaced with reconditioned item), timing chain, water pump. Timing was reset off the timing gears, so its spot on. Prior to me doing this work, i had a running diesel engine. So if it was a buggered new head, (compression) it wouldn't run, but that wouldn't cause no flow at the injectors?????

Any ideas as to what i look at next ill take -

I'm happy to fit a new fuel pump, but not without 'knowing' that is the issue, is there a way to confirm this???? im almost out of all ideas- does anyone know a good diesel mechanic in the Altona region of Melbourne, because i need this Ute up and running and its driving me insane.

 

[MickR]

Oh and one more strange thing i noticed following me changing the ECU, pick up, the tacho, still jumps on crank, but not as much and it will settle during crank then start jumping again??? does this give any clues as to what im dealing with

 

[tweak'e]

one issue that comes up now and then is interference screwing up the crank sensor output. hard to check for without a scope as you need to check wave form. without a decent output the ecu won't allow injection.
some people have found things like starter motors to be a culprit.
check earths, connectors, leads havn't been pulled out. or funky dual battery setups.

 

[Been a while]

Yup, I was just about to mention the starter motor! Also faulty ignition assemblies can do it.. Earths are a big one too, remove ALL the earth posts and clean the surface for good contact.. They fit the earths to painted bodies and rely on the bolt to make contact through the treads..

You really need to buy an ecutalk code reader and read the manual diagnostics.. you need to check if the pump is actually turning on! If you've replaced the ecu you could count that out but, as Tweek mentioned the starter and ignition assemblies can still work but not be sending the correct voltage to the pumps ecu..

Regarding the starter motors, there's a story of one bloke changing out 2 pumps to finally find out it was the starter motor not sending the correct 12v supply to the pump... You need to do the continuity and supply tests.. just because you get a code for a sensor etc doesn't always mean it's that sensor, it can be something else on that circuit.. check 3 times , then remove the pump

Oh, and read that manuals diagnostics pages, it's all in there my man.. And the first thing on every diagnosis the manual tells you to do is,,,,, clean alllllll the earths ..

 

[MickR]

Hi All, again thanks for the advice and thoughts, I’ve checked all the earths I can find, cleaned them all up, removed paint, checked for resistant and renewed if any. Unfortunately still nothing. I have to say that electronic diagnostics are not a strong set of mine. Is there a simple way to identify if the fuel pump is actually getting power, as this logically seems to fit a lot of symptoms, if it’s not.

 

[Boogieboots]

Initially you mentioned that it would start with some aerostart, but it soon stalls out I take it?
If you can keep it going for a little after starting, watch the tacho to see what it does. If it is still jumping while not cranking you can probably rule out the starter interference. If it is it may be the crank angle sensor, but this should give a code.
Are you using a consult tool or jumping the plug to count flashes?

 

[MickR]

Hi Boogieboots, I’m jumping the plug at the moment. And yes, it would really only just turn over a few revolutions on Aerostart and then die. I’ll see if I can get enough out of it to watch the tacho. Thanks

 

[MickR]

So this is the final part of this thread, as you can see above I had a cracked head, replaced it and the car wouldn’t start. I scrubbed the earths to super clean, I replaced the starter, I was getting really good fuel at the injectors, it was killing me.

I was learning a lot however. I have also come the firm belief that the quickest way to set the timing on these engines is to drop the gear cover and do a full reset, otherwise you be hand cranking your engine for ever.

Eventually I was down to a few options in my head:
1. New engine - not my favorite idea, the bottom end was in such good nick, and the price was steep.
2. Change head back to original and see if it would run… - **** loads of work, but cheap, just my time

I opted for two, I changed the head back. Wellllll it started straight away. The new head I had was the issue, so now I had two heads neither of which were any good to me.

I scoured the Web and decided on a mid range priced new head from Mr Cylinder head, I’ve left my review on his page. Surface to say a great head, top quality machining. Bolted that on and literally after pushing the air out my fuel lines it started within 3 cranks.

A **** load of work, made easier thanks to the people on this page. ZD30’s no longer scare me, I can get the gear cover off in a flash. Thanks all and on to my next Navara adventure.

 

[Boogieboots]

Good news mate!
A lot cheaper than a new ute, and a lot easier to work on yourself than a new ute!

 

[Garyshawx]

Oh and one more strange thing i noticed following me changing the ECU, pick up, the tacho, still jumps on crank, but not as much and it will settle during crank then start jumping again??? does this give any clues as to what im dealing with

Just wondering where the ECU is located and how difficult it was to change? trying to diagnose a similar issue to yours but im pretty sure mine is electrical.

 

[dattorob]

the ECU is down the bottom of center console under the heater in the cabin close to firewall, just a few 8mm bolts from memory fairly straight forward. Once you unscrew the bolts/bracket you can unplug it. Its fairly chunky between 150-200mm square by ~30mm deep.

 

[Boogieboots]

Just wondering where the ECU is located and how difficult it was to change? trying to diagnose a similar issue to yours but im pretty sure mine is electrical.

What are your symptoms mate?
Does the car start/run?