Can’t find dipstick

[landmannnn]

Am I reading it correctly? 1925?? I'd love to see some pics of the car mate.

I'm scratching 40 in a year or so, my first car was a 1986 Corolla, followed by a VL Commodore with a carby 308.

Corolla was the only toyota ever to not work properly, I learnt carby's inside out with that car.

Everything was done via a timing light, the dizzy and ear.. occasionally also by smell

Here's one. A Citroën C3, quite different from the C3 you can buy today.

 

[Phunk]

Here's one. A Citroën C3, quite different from the C3 you can buy today.


View attachment 36130

As beautiful as I expected. Lovely ride mate, lovely ride.

Now all it needs is a 454 big block snuck in there... (Kidding)

 

[John308]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Finally had some time and dry weather to crawl under the navara and have a look. It appears my nav has no dipstick at all not looking forward to changing the atf now but needs to be done. Thanks again

 

[Phunk]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Finally had some time and dry weather to crawl under the navara and have a look. It appears my nav has no dipstick at all not looking forward to changing the atf now but needs to be done. Thanks again

Check my other post, I nutted out the basics to do the ATF, it wasnt that hard at all mate if you have right gear.

Get a 12v pump from ebay / amazon, makes it a million times easier

 

[John308]

Thanks Phunk planning on using your instructions. Do I need to remove both 10mm bolts on plate at old dipstick tube hole?is the Allen bolt you mentioned the one at the bottom front of sump? Or am I ok to drain and just add 4 litres atf

 

[Phunk]

Thanks Phunk planning on using your instructions. Do I need to remove both 10mm bolts on plate at old dipstick tube hole?is the Allen bolt you mentioned the one at the bottom front of sump? Or am I ok to drain and just add 4 litres atf

So when you find those 2 x 10mm bolts, 1 of them holds in the plug itself. If you undo the 2, it will remove the whole plate with the plug and all.

I will admit, I didn't realise only 1 bolt will remove the plug so I did both and took off the whole plate. From memory it's the 10mm towards the back of the car that held the plug in place.

As for fluid, one of the safest methods is to replace what you drained. If you got 4L out, then throw 4L back in.

You can then drive the car for a couple of days and do it again if you're pedantic on changing as much of the fluid as possible. A large amount of it remains in the torque converter so you'll need that the mix with the new fluid and then drain and add again. I didn't bother doing this. Never really have to be honest, but it would be good practise to do so (do as I say, not as I do hehe)

But yep, the small Allen key plug at the front of the sump (towards front of car) is the one for measuring.

If you've got the time and the patience I recommend doing the filter. It cost me like $40 or so from repco for a complete kit of Filter and Gasket. (difficulty level of doing filter is a 2/10, it's just time consuming taking off all the bolts)

Sidenote - if you take off the sump to do the filter, you'll see 2 magnets in there, they'll look like they are covered in gunk. They are not, they are covered in a thick grease to help catch and hold smaller particles.

For fluid - make sure you get the right one, new-age gearboxes are finnicky on fluid. I used Penrite Multi-Vehicle ATF LV (as recommended for the Auto)

 

[Cuda]

Thanks Phunk planning on using your instructions. Do I need to remove both 10mm bolts on plate at old dipstick tube hole?is the Allen bolt you mentioned the one at the bottom front of sump? Or am I ok to drain and just add 4 litres atf

John,
When I did mine (after dropping pan etc.) I filled transmission to the required amount I disconnected the oil return line, started the engine, observed oil until fresh oil started to pump out (it didn't take long) reconnected the oil line, topped up the same amount that I had collected, that way I knew that I had fresh oil throughout the whole system.

 

[[email protected]]

some info on vegetable oils.... In 2000, Houghton International formulated a fire-resistant vegetable oil hydraulic fluid – Cosmolubric B-230. This technology made it affordable for manufacturers to switch to a biodegradable, oil-based, fire-resistant fluid without compromising performance.
brake fluids the same .. there is natural moisture in these heat does dry it out then it reabsorbs it when it cools down.. The seals in these systems will corrode and fail if you put mineral oil in there ,my neighbor found this out when his break cylinder emptied out onto his floor
Life time according to ford was something like 60,000 klms or x amount of yrs found this out when i complaind at 80th klms on some suspension and steering items before the yrs period ran out on my ea

 

[Phunk]

some info on vegetable oils.... In 2000, Houghton International formulated a fire-resistant vegetable oil hydraulic fluid – Cosmolubric B-230. This technology made it affordable for manufacturers to switch to a biodegradable, oil-based, fire-resistant fluid without compromising performance.
brake fluids the same .. there is natural moisture in these heat does dry it out then it reabsorbs it when it cools down.. The seals in these systems will corrode and fail if you put mineral oil in there ,my neighbor found this out when his break cylinder emptied out onto his floor
Life time according to ford was something like 60,000 klms or x amount of yrs found this out when i complaind at 80th klms on some suspension and steering items before the yrs period ran out on my ea

That's some handy info for a thursday morning, always wondered why they haven't started looking at modified Vegetable oils as a base.

 

[Chapster]

Thought I'd add a couple of comments here seeing as I attempted a dry change over the weekend.

My auto is in a 2007 Pathfinder. It does have a dipstick but it was a right pain getting it out. Very confident the mechanic I paid to check over and replace all fluids (incl ATF) when I first purchased this car lied through his teeth when he told me he checked it and it was fine. Lemme tell you that dipstick has not been removed in yearrrrrrs. Once removed a bit of rubber grease on the o-ring on the inside and it's fine now.

When replacing the filter, while it is mostly all straightforward upward facing bolts holding it in place (of various lengths, so record what comes from where) there is also - for some dumb reason - three loose downward facing bolts which have nuts on the end. Just be really careful when replacing the filter pan that you don't accidentally push one of these bolts up. I gently placed the new pan over these then first then pulled it sideways to hold them in place with enough friction to do up the nuts. No idea what the engineers were thinking with that one.

There was no allen key overflow / drain plug in the pan or otherwise on mine. Presumably because my model has a dipstick that is not necessary.

Initial drain via the pan only netted about 4 litres for me. Dark brown colour in my case, further evidence of the aforementioned porky pie by the mechanic.

Given its 10.3L capacity (according to the manual), I still had circa 6.3L of old ATF in the torque converter, cooler lines, etc. I got this out by removing the ATF return line to the transmission from the cooler and running the car. I expected the return line to the one which came from the bottom of the ATF cooler, logically thinking it would be gravity fed. Its not. The return line comes from the top of the cooler. When you are looking at the transmission the return line is the one closest to the back of the car.

When removing and replacing the line, just remember there's a copper washer on both sides of the banjo bolt. It drops out a little sneakily on removal.

I believe the manual (and @Cuda above) says to run it until new ATF comes out, but mine starting running out of ATF before that happened so I presume you need to be simultaneously pumping in the new ATF to do that. We were not able to do that. In my case I ran the engine until fluid stopped consistently coming out, lowered the car, topped up the ATF, then did it again. On I think the third go the new ATF started coming out.

I put a full 12L in so it looks like we pumped out about 1.7 of the new ATF via the return line. It was dark at that point so I'll blame it on the light, my helper or both. We also lost some (new) ATF when we started it with cooler hose removed, mistakenly believing it to be the return hose (as per above). Either way, based on the grotty fluid we removed, I would rather put too much new ATF in than leave any of the dodgy stuff behind.

Messy job. Keep wood chips or your absorbent material of choice handy.

That was just my experience. Happy for anyone in the know to offer any corrections or advice for my and others' future benefit.