Black Smoke and Loss of Power

[Tinozi]

Hello. First time here. I am out in Zambia and my story goes like this. I drive a 2006 D40 AventuraWhile driving from work i experienced power loss and noticed black smoke coming from exhaust. Managed to get home. Thought it needed filter change so over the weekend we did service the engine and cleaned Boost Control Solenoid but i was still experiencing power loss. Got a new solenoid but still no power. Actuator could move when hose was sucked on but there was no suction from vacuum. Traced the vacuum hose and it was discovered that the hose had come out probably whilst changing oil filter. Placed it back but black smoke continued. This time around actuator was moving when revved but not on idle. MAF was cleaned with contact cleaner. Tried driving it yesterday and its a bit sluggish but there is boost after afterwards. It smokes badly in low revs but when turbo kicks in the smoking reduces. I am wondering, where next to look?

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[ericcs]

similar problem.
http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=35145

 

[Old.Tony]

^ as above. The vac hose is not expensive. I've replaced all of mine sitting on the side of the road once, spent $15 at Supercheap Auto buying 3 metres of 3mm internal diameter hose and then 15 minutes to remove the old hose, insert a new piece, cut to fit, move on to the next one.

Once you've done that, if it's still not working well, pay attention to your brakes. Do they feel normal or are they weaker/less responsive? The vacuum diaphragm inside the brake booster uses the same vacuum system as the turbocharger control, so if the vacuum diaphragm has failed in the brake booster, you will have to press much harder on the brake pedal. The only time I recall this happening resulted in the booster being replaced. Note that this is not a common failure, but an important one.

 

[Tinozi]

^ as above. The vac hose is not expensive. I've replaced all of mine sitting on the side of the road once, spent $15 at Supercheap Auto buying 3 metres of 3mm internal diameter hose and then 15 minutes to remove the old hose, insert a new piece, cut to fit, move on to the next one.

Once you've done that, if it's still not working well, pay attention to your brakes. Do they feel normal or are they weaker/less responsive? The vacuum diaphragm inside the brake booster uses the same vacuum system as the turbocharger control, so if the vacuum diaphragm has failed in the brake booster, you will have to press much harder on the brake pedal. The only time I recall this happening resulted in the booster being replaced. Note that this is not a common failure, but an important one.

The brakes sometimes do feel soft

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[Old.Tony]

It would have to be all the time, or at least whenever the car is misbehaving, for it to be the brake booster at fault. Feeling "soft" is not the same as "you have to stand on the pedal to make the car stop".

You can try this experiment to test the brake booster. Find a gentle downhill, start the car rolling down the hill and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal a bit then stand on the brake pedal. That's how the car brakes without the vac pump running. If your braking performance is identical to THAT, then your brake booster is shot, OR there's no vacuum reaching it.

Still pays to carefully examine all the vac hoses. Eric pointed you to a thread with an excellent close-up picture of the vac hoses and what can happen to them. I'd still rank that issue as highly likely.

 

[Tinozi]

It would have to be all the time, or at least whenever the car is misbehaving, for it to be the brake booster at fault. Feeling "soft" is not the same as "you have to stand on the pedal to make the car stop".

You can try this experiment to test the brake booster. Find a gentle downhill, start the car rolling down the hill and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal a bit then stand on the brake pedal. That's how the car brakes without the vac pump running. If your braking performance is identical to THAT, then your brake booster is shot, OR there's no vacuum reaching it.

Still pays to carefully examine all the vac hoses. Eric pointed you to a thread with an excellent close-up picture of the vac hoses and what can happen to them. I'd still rank that issue as highly likely.

Will try checking the hoses again. Though it is difficult to get under there. Somebody mentioned cleaning the boost sensor as well.

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[ericcs]

just lift the black plastic cover off the top of the engine, and follow the hoses over to the right side, that where my problem was. don't bother trying to clean the boost control solenoid, just replace it, they are an item that fail regularly.
one thing to correct from Tony's suggestion is, if you do have to replace your vac hoses, get 4mm hose, 3mm is way to tight!

 

[Tinozi]

just lift the black plastic cover off the top of the engine, and follow the hoses over to the right side, that where my problem was. don't bother trying to clean the boost control solenoid, just replace it, they are an item that fail regularly.
one thing to correct from Tony's suggestion is, if you do have to replace your vac hoses, get 4mm hose, 3mm is way to tight!

Thanks, already installed a new solenoid. After i installed the new one and placed back the vacuum hose that came out, i got boost back but the smoking hasnt stopped and its sluggish in low revs

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[MANNING]

i got boost back but the smoking hasnt stopped and its sluggish in low revs

Could the computer need a reset?
After the time not running properly had the computer learnt these parameters? Couldn't hurt. I know the reset procedure is on here somewhere

 

[Tinozi]

Could the computer need a reset?
After the time not running properly had the computer learnt these parameters? Couldn't hurt. I know the reset procedure is on here somewhere

Did a couple of resets using the pedal. Yet to do the battery disconnect

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