BCS vs Tillix Valve

[humeysd40]

Hey guys,

basically i installed a new bcs, and get weird boost readings, itll go to 20psi then drop even with foot full down. It spools up then drops off instantly.

ive replaced all the vacuum lines and their on the correct way around (checked multiple times).

now i did the test of outting the vac line straight onto the turbo, damn that goes crazy i get readings above 25psi and above, so whats the solution here. Should i install a tillix valve?

Also note its a new turbo, newvacuum lines and new BCS. Weird right, could be the electrical connector? Seems to click-in ok though?

 

[TCN]

Hey not sure I'm stating the obvious here but looks to me in first photo you are missing two vacuum lines on the BCS

 

[humeysd40]

Yeah its a photo of me doing the vac to turbo test so the turbo is fine + lines

 

[Old.Tony]

Yeah the stock turbo is capable of plenty enough boost. It's a good test though, makes sure that the turbo (the most expensive part in this area of the motor) is doing what it's supposed to mechanically (because it tests the actuator, the vanes and the output too).

I assume that - directly connected as in those most recent pics - the turbo didn't stop boosting at all while accelerating? That would mean the problem is a logic error in the ECU (which isn't saying the ECU is bad, it's saying the info the ECU is getting is bad).

This could be caused by a sensor fault - like a boost sensor providing a bad reading (check the electrical connection, check the sensor-to-ground continuity). It could be a dodgy connection (eg brake switch coming on erratically). The MAFS also comes to mind, but not as readily as, say, the clutch/brake switches, or the boost sensor.

You escape ALL of those problems by jumping ship and going the Dawes/Tillix valve way, but you then lose ECU control of the turbo - so there's no anticipation of turbo need, everything is reactive. It will feel a little more laggy (purely because instead of "open the vanes to full" command from the ECU, the turbo "opens the vanes as much as it can based on the Tillix valve setting" ). That lag is miniscule, it's not worth worrying about, and once you forget about the difference you'll wonder what the bother was about.

It's really your choice. Check a few more items that directly impact the turbo operation choice from the ECU or just jump ship and remove any of those problems forever?

I do notice that I have to be moderate in my boost levels. I've got it set at about 19psi max. If I go higher, every now and again mine will overboost (23psi+) and cause the ECU to toss a code my way. So I guess the choice is "max boost with possible faults" or "moderate to good boost with no dramas ever".

 

[humeysd40]

Hey guys so im confident i fixed bcs, not sure how, now my boost gauge is broken because i went on a drive without the boost solenoid properly wired up and saw stupid psi numbers.

turbo and engine seem to be really trying to push alot of power, however just doesnt seem to want to go.

i still might however upgrade to the tilix valve, let me get this straight (see if im wrong). The tilix replaces the BCS and basically acs as a manual max boost setting rather than the ecu determining how much MAX boost it thinks it needs? Sounds pretty good + eliminates ecu issues?

 

[Old.Tony]

i still might however upgrade to the tilix valve, let me get this straight (see if im wrong). The tilix replaces the BCS and basically acs as a manual max boost setting rather than the ecu determining how much MAX boost it thinks it needs? Sounds pretty good + eliminates ecu issues?

Yes.

But check the EGR first. It might be the cause of the woes.

 

[humeysd40]

Egr has been cleaned and then fully deleted from engine.

 

[BarneyB]

The other option some owners have fitted is a boost operated actuator.
Torque Master (Diesel Smart?) is one brand out there and I think Turbo Smart offer one too.
As I understand it, you get all the benefits of a Tilix (simplicity, reliability etc)... but the spool response is supposed to be better(?)
I'm curious about both, especially removing the bcs/ecu set-up & all it's potential hassles, but I don't have any experience yet...
I was hoping someone on the forums has a Torque Master & could share their thoughts...

 

[tweak'e]

The other option some owners have fitted is a boost operated actuator.
Torque Master (Diesel Smart?) is one brand out there and I think Turbo Smart offer one too.
As I understand it, you get all the benefits of a Tilix (simplicity, reliability etc)... but the spool response is supposed to be better(?)
I'm curious about both, especially removing the bcs/ecu set-up & all it's potential hassles, but I don't have any experience yet...
I was hoping someone on the forums has a Torque Master & could share their thoughts...

i don't follow them these days, but i understand they where crap.
i suspect the simple problem of boost actuator is lack of available force to move the vanes in the low boost range.
with vacuum actuator you have the full vac ready to go. so if it needs it, it gets it very quickly.
need to remember that the vac system is a cheap nasty way to control the turbo. other manufactures use electric motor to precisely control the turbo vanes.