My 2011 STX550 is very hard on batteries, have Engel in tub with Cetek 250DS charging a 120ah Full River AGM. Start battery has died again. Looking for a better one, currently Century DIN85LH MF. Would a century DIN85LH AGM ISS be a better option? Alternator is pumping out 14.6 when idling. Recharged 2 days ago now drops to under 12v in about 25 minutes. Battery was replaced under warranty 15 months ago for same reason, had a hard time claiming warranty then so would not expect a good outcome this time. Your advice would help as the AGM battery is super expensive.
Battery for V9x
- Thread starter ekka
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^ Having a look at the Cetek 250DS specs, it seems to simply allow current to be sent to the second battery in a fancy way (for "smart" alternators presumably).
Does it also work as a voltage dependant relay (to isolate the start battery when the car is off, so the voltage doesn't get too low)? It doesn't seem to indicate that in the specs.
Does it also work as a voltage dependant relay (to isolate the start battery when the car is off, so the voltage doesn't get too low)? It doesn't seem to indicate that in the specs.
Anyone tried Varta batteries, was the original brand installed. Was replaced by Nissan dealer but seems they fitted lower spec battery. Who would have thought that, lol. Looking at
G14 Varta Silver Dynamic AGM Start/Stop BATTERY – 36 Month Warranty (42 Months in non Start/Stop vehicle)
G14 Varta Silver Dynamic AGM Start/Stop BATTERY – 36 Month Warranty (42 Months in non Start/Stop vehicle)
landmannnn
Member
It may seem strange, but the vast majority of vehicle batteries are made by the same company, it used to be Johnson controls, now Tyco or another company own them.
So pretty much the label on the outside is just that, the brand is often irrelevant.
I would suggest replacing with a standard flooded battery rather than an AGM (019 is the generic code). It is known than sometimes the smart alternators struggle with AGM batteries if not originally fitted as they can take a much higher charge and have lower internal resistance.
So pretty much the label on the outside is just that, the brand is often irrelevant.
I would suggest replacing with a standard flooded battery rather than an AGM (019 is the generic code). It is known than sometimes the smart alternators struggle with AGM batteries if not originally fitted as they can take a much higher charge and have lower internal resistance.
I've just replaced mine in my D40. I chose a Century DIN65LHX MF (wet cell, maintenance-free). They have a 40 month warranty. Not only are Century good batteries, but they're made in Australia which counts for a lot.
Fair enough.
It sounds like there is something amiss with the vehicle charging system if your batteries are failing to the extent they are. Unless you do lots of short trips? Whatever battery you get might be an idea to sort this?
Assuming this is the voltage at the start battery it sounds alright. That's only one part of the equation though. Does the start battery get this voltage via the Cetek unit?
We had issues with the battery in our car, easily resolved.
Nowadays we only take the ute out for shopping (shops are 50km from home) or when travelling. For a normal school week, that means 7 days between starts ... and the battery does NOT survive.
I added a 40W solar panel to the roof basket, and a PWM controller which is turned on and off by a relay using ignition power (so the solar panel is not charging the battery when the ignition is on). This keeps my battery - a 910CCA Century battery - in great shape.
Nowadays we only take the ute out for shopping (shops are 50km from home) or when travelling. For a normal school week, that means 7 days between starts ... and the battery does NOT survive.
I added a 40W solar panel to the roof basket, and a PWM controller which is turned on and off by a relay using ignition power (so the solar panel is not charging the battery when the ignition is on). This keeps my battery - a 910CCA Century battery - in great shape.
Hi Tony, have a 100w panel on roof rack and cetek dc charger for battery in tub. Have been planning on fitting another controller to also charge start battery when ignition off. How do you think it will work with 1 panel and 2 controllers?
It could work, the power from the one panel split between the two controllers. The controllers won't argue a lot, because they're designed to draw whatever power they can or need - so it'll probably charge one battery - on the shortest cable most likely - before it charges the other.
I use two panels - I have the 40W panel in the roof basket, I also have a 120W panel on the canopy. Keeps it simple, but also means that the rear battery has more power - I have a pair of Engels in there now (60L and 40L).
Hate sound contrarian here, but...assuming the start batteries were the right size to begin with, and not subject to extreme use...there should be no need to install solar panels to stop your start battery continually clagging it. Unless it's a known design problem with this model car?
Sounds an obvious problem here that solar panels might paper over, but won't they fix whatever is wrong. As though the batteries might either be subject to being drained too much when the car is off, or not charging properly when it's on. Any decent dual battery system that's working properly should have no real effect on longevity of the start battery.
Sounds an obvious problem here that solar panels might paper over, but won't they fix whatever is wrong. As though the batteries might either be subject to being drained too much when the car is off, or not charging properly when it's on. Any decent dual battery system that's working properly should have no real effect on longevity of the start battery.
In my case the second battery in the tub isn't connected to the start battery at all, the start battery is as per factory. I found that the car's own computers would drain the battery over 4-5 days. On the 6th day I'd try starting the car and it would struggle (particularly the original battery which was smaller than the unit I have now). This only became evident when we started using a smaller petrol car for running around. When we were actively using the Navara every day it wasn't as much of an issue.
Knowing that the alternator typically only charges the battery to 75-80% of full, I thought I could save the battery some more by putting a small panel that would counter the drain and top it up, which has worked. The current battery - about 4 years old now - sits at 100% charge all the time, the car fires up no drama at all, and a recent test of the battery showed that the 910CCA battery still delivered 900 amps (test machine at Battery World).
Sounds like a design issue, if it's draining the battery that much. I know the old D22 start battery only ever gets to about 80-85% (only way to get it full is with a charger) but that shouldn't matter. I can (and have) still leave it for month and it will kick over just fine. Guess they're older technology, not as much drain on the battery.
It could be a design flaw. The BCM draws constantly listening for a signal from the keyfob which you'd think shouldn't be too high but obviously contributes to the issue.
I do have a Couplertec (?) antirust thingy in there. It seems to work, I've no major rust problems, but it will definitely have an impact as well and might be the one giving me the most grief, but since I've solved it I don't care!
I think my problem is battery never gets fully charged. Short trips plus too many gadgets, gps, reversing camera, DcDc charger for battery in tub. Then we hookup caravan, power to fridge while travelling, power to second DcDc charger for van batteries, 2 x 120ah AGM, electric brakes. It all adds up maybe bit much for 130amp alternator.
Due to a failure, I had to replace my alternator and went with one recommended by the mechanic. This lasted a couple of years I replaced that with a Trump 150A alternator from eBay.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alterna...TI-2-5L-Turbo-Diesel-05-14-150A-/261359259988
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alterna...TI-2-5L-Turbo-Diesel-05-14-150A-/261359259988
