As above. Parkers won't draw a lot of current but to be safe I'd use a fused 10A relay on them anyway. Here's a wiring diagram in text that will do the job.
From the bolt inside the cabin under the dash that screws into the metalwork, run a wire to your new switch and connect it to BOTH sides of the centre connectors. If you want parkers on when the switch is 'up', connect lead A to the BOTTOM connector on one side and then lead B to the TOP connector on the other side. What you'll now have is a switch that, when switched up will connect lead A to earth (negative) and when switched down, will connect lead B to earth. Now run leads A and B out through the firewall into the engine bay.
Grab two relays, one can be 10A (parkers) the other 40A but it won't hurt to use the same (higher amperage) type of relay for both. Relay 1 will be for parkers, relay 2 for spotties.
Note: I am assuming that you want the 'parkers' to come on independently of the actual parkers, so I'm not wiring them to come on with parkers but if you DO want them to, find the positive parker lead and replace the wire to pin 85 of relay 1 described below with a wire to the positive parker lead.
Relay 1: connect lead A to pin 86, and connect pin 85 to the battery positive (via a fuse). Connect pin 30 to the battery positive as well (also via a fuse, it can be the same fuse). Connect pin 87 to your new parker lights (obviously connecting the negative on your parker lights to battery negative or the chassis).
Relay 2: On the right-hand headlight find the BLUE wire and tap into it (solder is good, but manufacturing your own with a H4 connector extender is even better). This is your high beam wire. Connect this to pin 85 of relay 2, and connect pin 86 to lead B. Connect a fused wire from the battery positive to pin 30, and pin 87 goes out to your spotties. Your spotties can be switched off, but can only come on if your high beam is on. Make sure you provide a good earth for the spotties negative cable.
