Peteyen86
Member
They will just heat and bend them into shape. Will only be standard mild steel so shouldnt have any problems. When using hardened steel you have to worry about heat and what it does to it, not so much mild steel.
Anyone interested in D22 recovery points?
- Thread starter digbyj
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They will just heat and bend them into shape. Will only be standard mild steel so shouldnt have any problems. When using hardened steel you have to worry about heat and what it does to it, not so much mild steel.
digbyj
Member
here's a pic of the ones i have on my gq in case you guys wanted an idea of what they look like, about 10mm thick and can be found for cheaper than the 110 i paid, used them quite a few times including being very very stuck in mud and they're easily up to the job
Thanks for the pic, the navara ones bolt on upwards not across hence they have to be bent 90 deg. I'll put a pic up when they're done then the guys who have shown interest can decide if they want them, if not I'll stick them all over my car and not have to worry about where I get bogged haha!!!
digbyj
Member
Al was right, the one on the left is about 75mm and on the right about 71mm (centre to centre), I only used a tape measure. That explains why people have to adjust them slightly when trying to fit.
If anyone else wants to jump under their trucks and let us know what they find we'll go from there.
If anyone else wants to jump under their trucks and let us know what they find we'll go from there.
Peteyen86
Member
I know what your saying. The way i see it is 10mm thick plate with lots of meat left around the holes will take a lot of load. Its will not fail, the weak point will be the bolted join to the chassis. As seen in another thread, pulled the bolts clean out of the chassis. Just got to know when to stop pulling and start digging or trying something different.
Just measured mine mate. Both sides were 70mm centres. Some robot at Nissan needs to learn how to be more consistent..lol
shaggy
Member
Hi Fella's
If are worried about 10mm plate being folded why not use 10mm angle instead,then all you have to do is cut it to length and drill the bolt holes
Shane
If are worried about 10mm plate being folded why not use 10mm angle instead,then all you have to do is cut it to length and drill the bolt holes
Shane
digbyj
Member
Yeah mate, was just doing what the bloke recommended from a picture I showed him, certainly looks strong enough. I'll see what he says about angle. Ive never heard of one of these points breaking on any vehicle so not sure why need to change it.
Peteyen86
Member
Hey mate. Just whipped this up now. I got the dimensions on the net somewhere so not sure if they are correct or not.
Maybe someone with the recovery points already can print this drawing off and then confirm them for us???
If correct great, if not i'll mark up the drawing and then anybody can get a set manufactured using it.
Again. Dimensions are not confirmed guys so dont use this drawing just yet!
Sorry about the crappy quality to, had to scan a print to get it to upload. If anyone is willing to confirm the dimensions on your recovery points, send me a PM and i will email a PDF copy instead, will be better quality.
DRAWING MOVED TO PAGE 5 UNDER KRAFTY'S LINK
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digbyj
Member
Hey Pete, did you draw that up? That's awesome. I've got the dimensions, that looks similar to what I'm getting made, just gotta see how much effort it is for him to do an elongated vs round shackle hole. Where'd you come up with the steel info or is that just Aus steel standards?
Peteyen86
Member
Hey mate. Im a mechanical draftsman. Do this sort stuff all the time. We do lots of 3D & 2D plans for various companies around Aus.
Im guessing the slotted hole is there for the use of a hook. Slot lets you get the hook in and out. They only need to drill/cut two 30 DIA holes and then cut out the middle, so shouldnt add to much cost. But one hole for the shackle would be fine also.
Yeah thats the Aus steel standard for mild steel flat (from memory). Just tells them to use plan old mild steel. Just a way we call up the steel on drawings. If it was stainless we would give the standard for stainless, followed by what grade you want.
The main dimensions that i would like to verify is the 130mm Lg, 60mm & 115mm (basic overall dimesions) and the 40mm hole offset (thats important). The rest we can do to suit.
Should probably just jump under my Nav and check it out. Do that tonight or tomorrow, update the drawing on monday.
Pete
heata
Member
Happy to measure and check, but it wont be until monday.
digbyj
Member
The measurements are 105 L 95 H and 60 W. If u get under there you'll see that those work, 115 is too high, sticks out too far, 60 is the chassis mounting point width and the length can be upto about 130. Stand by, and once there done I'll post a pic, then if anyone wants some I'll get more done.
Peteyen86
Member
Cheers mate, that would be good. Might as well double check
Good stuff. Ill update that drawing on Monday. Its on the work computer so have to wait until then. Then anyone who wants a copy i can email them a PDF.
Pete
AJZ987
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From what I was told all the ones in stores and eBay were recalled because the rating on them was incorrect. So I did what you guys are doing and got some 10mm angle cut it to shape drilled holes painted them red and they have held on for 2 recovery so far. Good luck with it.
Anthony
Anthony
terryc
Member
I don't know why people are worried about these things tearing out or failing. I figure it is far cheaper if they fail than do some serious damage to the underside.
because it sends shrapnel fly at high speed. bad enough having the bungy fly back at ya, let alone when theres a bit of steel on the end of it.
the other problem with just adding a D to the existing holes, is that the chassi is so thin you may just rip them out of the chassi.
some of the 4x4 clubs recovery point specs calls for a backing plate and an extra bolt to hold it together.
Attachments
digbyj
Member
Was thinkin the same thing Daz. Tweake'e, I like your theory but do you think the hook will actually straighten before it comes out the chassis, realizing it's strong enough to take a pull? There's no point trying if the hooks not gonna straighten.
Just got a text off the boss, day off 2moro woot woot! So I might investigate a bit further...
Cheers
Just got a text off the boss, day off 2moro woot woot! So I might investigate a bit further...
Cheers
digbyj
Member
Ok, if you see the attached pic you'll see the 2 bolt holes that we have available. Now, see the big nut just below them, there is a square piece of steel behind that nut and washer about 50mm x 50mm.
It looks like a spacer or something (?). If I removed that and put a piece of angle (min 10mm thick) and used that nut as well as the 2 bolt holes, that is obvioulsy going to make the mount to the chassis stonger.
From there I will have the angle shaped at the bottom to tidy it up and have 2 holes drilled in it to mount a rated recovery hook to. The angle would sit out just enough to allow access to the hooks (approx 30mm out from the square in the pic), therefore making it the same distance sticking out as the previous style recovery point discussed - 95mm.
Thoughts...
It looks like a spacer or something (?). If I removed that and put a piece of angle (min 10mm thick) and used that nut as well as the 2 bolt holes, that is obvioulsy going to make the mount to the chassis stonger.
From there I will have the angle shaped at the bottom to tidy it up and have 2 holes drilled in it to mount a rated recovery hook to. The angle would sit out just enough to allow access to the hooks (approx 30mm out from the square in the pic), therefore making it the same distance sticking out as the previous style recovery point discussed - 95mm.
Thoughts...
