3D Printer, who has one?

[Been a while]

Howdy all, as heading states, who has one?

I want to make up some extentions for my mirrors, i want to make the base that mounts to the door bigger by an inch or two...

You can get these big arse towing mirrors that "sort of fit" but they're far to big for my liking...

Anyone have a 3D Printer they can use to make these?

 

[grumpy too]

Howdy all, as heading states, who has one?

I want to make up some extentions for my mirrors, i want to make the base that mounts to the door bigger by an inch or two...

You can get these big arse towing mirrors that "sort of fit" but they're far to big for my liking...

Anyone have a 3D Printer they can use to make these?

You can get GU mirrors that fit pretty well and are extendable for towing, just hang out a bit for my liking so use the clip on ones, fiddly but not squeezing between trees when towing. ADVENTURE TOWING EXTENDABLE MIRRORS FOR NISSAN PATROL Y61 GU WAGON 1997–ON CHRM | eBay

 

[Been a while]

You can get GU mirrors that fit pretty well and are extendable for towing, just hang out a bit for my liking so use the clip on ones, fiddly but not squeezing between trees when towing. ADVENTURE TOWING EXTENDABLE MIRRORS FOR NISSAN PATROL Y61 GU WAGON 1997–ON CHRM | eBay

Seriously, I want to buy a printer eh!

I like the original ones- nice and compact, but they just need an inch on the perch..

 

[GunMentalGrey]

You’ll need a pretty high quality one to make a part capable of holding a mirror on.

 

[Kzin]

Sorry but GunMentalGrey is correct, 3D printed plastic would not be strong enough. you may be able to bend some AL bar at right angel, & screw it to the existing, & have it extend out slightly further, for the mounting hole...

 

[Slappy]

I've got an Ender 3 v2, cheap and powerful little printer - but I haven't gotten to the point of printing in more than PLA just yet. With some cheap upgrade, I'll be able to print in ABS and have seen loads of examples of stuff like this working out. I bought it to print internal parts for my VL - plastic parts are getting pricy!

 

[Been a while]

Sorry but GunMentalGrey is correct, 3D printed plastic would not be strong enough. you may be able to bend some AL bar at right angel, & screw it to the existing, & have it extend out slightly further, for the mounting hole...

No needs for sorry here bloke, I'm not your mother!

Oh I can extend them but perches would look far better... with the factory extension on it already it would look the goods and be practical..

The trick would be to print the plastic ones L/R and then cast silicone moulds for metal "alloy" ones ... or metal moulds and plastic form, vac or inject...Alloy would be the go, start saving your alloy can pull tabs !

 

[Been a while]

You’ll need a pretty high quality one to make a part capable of holding a mirror on.

See, that's what I don't know! I thought it's just the fillerment that's used.. like metal putty that sets rock hard?

Still think silicone molds for Alloy casts is the way to go! Unless these printers can squirter out that metal putty stuff or alike!

 

[GunMentalGrey]

Well, there are printers that will print in metal and other really strong stuff - but $$$$$$$

 

[Been a while]

Well, there are printers that will print in metal and other really strong stuff - but $$$$$$$

Yup, ok big $$$ huh, I know absolutely nothing about them or thier works... I thought they all did the same thing...

 

[Been a while]

I've got an Ender 3 v2, cheap and powerful little printer - but I haven't gotten to the point of printing in more than PLA just yet. With some cheap upgrade, I'll be able to print in ABS and have seen loads of examples of stuff like this working out. I bought it to print internal parts for my VL - plastic parts are getting pricy!

I'd help you look into it for sure! Plenty of blokes would use them i reckon...

I was/am thinking of grabbing L/R perches from the wreckers and using body filler to carve the originals and make molds for alloy.. that would work, I've got time at the camp site to play with it and make the originals for the molding process..

Printer is far easier and quicker, although,,,, alloy would be the go! ****** process, casting metals...

What do you need to start on this bloke? How do WE lol create the originals? Computer programs or scan original hand crafted ones i make?

There's nothing out there for the early Nav's, still plenty of D22 out there with blokes like me driving them into the ground lol
Something to think about whilst locked up huh you never know, they might sell and you've got yourself a nice little cottage industry going from your loungeroom...
Do the states make anything for their navs/hardbodied/frontier? I don't think they do,,,, soooo there's another market..

 

[Slappy]

What do you need to start on this bloke? How do WE lol create the originals? Computer programs or scan original hand crafted ones i make?

Hmm, taking measurements from something would be easier than just modeling from nothing as far as getting it right the first time for sure.

 

[Been a while]

Hmm, taking measurements from something would be easier than just modeling from nothing as far as getting it right the first time for sure.

That's why I'm thinking, scanning original and modifying using computer programs!

 

[THOOMP]

Depends on what you are making/modelling.
Affordablethack together 3d scanners will get you the basic shape, but there is usually a lot of cleanup required to get a good "copy".

Most things I just sit down with a set of verniers, a protractor and fusion360.

Last thing I fabbed for my d40 was a pair of adapters to fit led blinkers into the bull bar mounts. Half hour of measuring and modelling. Printing was done by the time I had finished the wiring.

PLA+ is fine for a lot of accessories but for hard wearing ABS is better. That said fumes are toxic and I print in my lounge room so no abs for me atm.

As mentioned metal printing is out there but BIG$$$

 

[grumpy too]

You must be able to make something fairly tough as there is a kerfulle going on at present about 3D printed firearms, depending on the cartridge used there would be a lot of pressure there even for one shot.

 

[THOOMP]

I would guess that strength and ability to handle heat would be main requirements. That said, I don't even open the plans for guns, don't really want to be put on a watch list lol.

Mostly comes down to layer heights and infill. From my experience solid infill isn't really better than say 40% infill strength wise. Structure/shape of infill will effect strength more. Also I found going over 40% infill tends to "bloat" the print and sizing/tolerances.

 

[Been a while]

Thats it blokes, keep at it

 

[Slappy]

Depends on what you are making/modelling.
Affordablethack together 3d scanners will get you the basic shape, but there is usually a lot of cleanup required to get a good "copy".

Most things I just sit down with a set of verniers, a protractor and fusion360.

Last thing I fabbed for my d40 was a pair of adapters to fit led blinkers into the bull bar mounts. Half hour of measuring and modelling. Printing was done by the time I had finished the wiring.

PLA+ is fine for a lot of accessories but for hard wearing ABS is better. That said fumes are toxic and I print in my lounge room so no abs for me atm.

As mentioned metal printing is out there but BIG$$$

Yeah I hadn't really considered 3d scans, messy business without big investment I think. My Dad set up an Xbox Kinect that can take whole ass room scans but the quality isn't there for a reasonably small part. Calipers and CAD would be the way to go.

Have you looked much into ABA? From what I understand its just ABS minus the fumes and its a little easier to work with.