3.0 litre EGR/Butterfly/Swirl Mod

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first thing, do not put ball bearing in lines. theres no need and sometimes the butterfly can get locked into the wrong position which causes all sorts of problems.

you mention no difference in top psi, what boost are you getting?
i would be checking your exhaust for any restriction. mine increased max boost and is most certainly a bit quicker. to top it off my exhaust would have more restriction as i have resonator and offset muffler.

the other thing i need to check here is how the dyno test is done. i assume its all done a full throttle ?
if so then i think the graphs are meaning less. simply because the egr and egr butterfly are both off at full throttle and especially over 3000 rpm. also the swirl valve only works under ~1500 rpm or so.
any of the egr and butterfly mods should make NO difference to top power at all.

I see, yeah the dyno runs were done in 4th gear from 60kms to 130kms. so start point was from 2000ish rpm. there has been no negative effects on driving with the swirl line blocked??...should i unblock it again? i just thought f^&k it, i'll give it a go and see what happens.

There is no restrictions with the exhaust at all. its all straight through pipe with a magnaflow straight through muffler, i sussed out the system myself when it was on the hoist.

And with the boost, the only difference was that is came on sooner. there was no gain at all. running 15psi.

The only other big difference i saw was the air/fuel mix was much richer.
 
swirl valve, ok if its disabled. i just pulled the connector off the solnoid. ball bearings is just a crappy way of doing it. even pulling the hose off, blocking it and leaving it off is better.

how where you measuring the fuel ratio ?
for the same or less power the fuel mix should have been leaner.
you did the exhaust, lost a bit of power, gained no more boost and its richer ?? that sounds like a drop in air flow somehow. it should have been doing over 15psi with exhaust change.
 
ratio was masured from the exhaust..
if this is all the case.. i have no idea what is going on..
would a chip make any significant difference to working in turn with the exhaust?..
 
i'm wondering if theres an pre turbo intake restriction, leak or a heat issue.
the exhaust only dyno seams well out of wack compared to everything else. the fuel mix reading on the other runs seams to change at 3000rpm which is when egr butterfly comes off and then fueling goes up (power starts going up more at that point too). except green run doesn't do that even remotely.

take the inlet hoses off and clean any oil off them and put them back on. i wonder if the hoses are leaking a bit. that happens a bit if you don't have a catch can on.

pink fueling seams ok for stock. running rich due to egr butterfly reducing air flow then goes lean as it comes off then riches back up as fueling comes on.
these are fairly well under fueled in the low rpm which is why its really lean in the red run and gets richer at higher revs.

just something seams wrong with the green run.
 
Here are the pics i got of the vac lines, is it right?
cheers mark.

Standard but with wiring loom removed.
17052009.jpg


With the vac lines unplugged and the t/ hose you need to use.
17052009001.jpg


And the finished lines.
17052009002.jpg

i was confused untill i saw your pics.
Your a F**Ken ledgend, thanx mate, got it sorted, will do the mod this weekend
 
i'm wondering if theres an pre turbo intake restriction, leak or a heat issue.
the exhaust only dyno seams well out of wack compared to everything else. the fuel mix reading on the other runs seams to change at 3000rpm which is when egr butterfly comes off and then fueling goes up (power starts going up more at that point too). except green run doesn't do that even remotely.

take the inlet hoses off and clean any oil off them and put them back on. i wonder if the hoses are leaking a bit. that happens a bit if you don't have a catch can on.

pink fueling seams ok for stock. running rich due to egr butterfly reducing air flow then goes lean as it comes off then riches back up as fueling comes on.
these are fairly well under fueled in the low rpm which is why its really lean in the red run and gets richer at higher revs.

just something seams wrong with the green run.

i see, i will have to have a play around with it in a few weeks. im back to work, so i dont have much time to tinker around with it..
But just on a visual inspection, everything looks tight/secure.
 
My engine has an additional line running to the egr solenoid. What do I do with that one? It's running to a little black box in pic 2

that black box thingy is against the quarter pannel on drivers side, and back up - about 5-10cm from firewall.
any ideads what this is? and how to do egr mod with that line?
 

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no idea what that box is. what else does is going into it?
if in doubt leave it hooked up. i'm guessing whatever it is is not factory.
 
Has a cable running into firewall aswell. Think it's a cable for throttle for cruise control
 

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Ok. There is a power lead running to this mysteries black box too. I disconnected it and took it for a drive and tested cruise control. Mystery solved. It IS cruise control box.. BUT... Why is it running to the EGR solenoid bottom hose as in pic?
 
its a mechanical cruise control. uses vacuum to put the cable which pulls the throttle. its just T'ed into egr solenoid for the vacuum.
 
ok, so how do i get around this to perform the egr / butterfly/swirl mod?
lol. just when i was getting excited to do this mod i hit a hurdle...
Could I t piece the vacuum for the cruise control to something else, to the top or botton of one of the other solenoids?
 
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Okay so after reading this whole thread and its little back and forth responses.
#1: At what revs (for certain) will this improve my engine?
#2: This will not damage my engine down the track (shouldnt do as its taking out the exhaust on the intake?)
#3: Is anyone willing to post up a clean before and after shot with matching diagrams, or even a step by step with photos?
#4:Whats the size of the T piece needed?
#5: Whats the cheapest and best material to use replacing the gasket? Gasket material or SS ect...

Lotta questions but I want to be certain! :) cheers
 
Okay so after reading this whole thread and its little back and forth responses.
#1: At what revs (for certain) will this improve my engine?
#2: This will not damage my engine down the track (shouldnt do as its taking out the exhaust on the intake?)
#3: Is anyone willing to post up a clean before and after shot with matching diagrams, or even a step by step with photos?
#4:Whats the size of the T piece needed?
#5: Whats the cheapest and best material to use replacing the gasket? Gasket material or SS ect...

Lotta questions but I want to be certain! :) cheers

http://www.navara.asia/d22-engine/4713-egr-butterfly-mod-super-thread.html

All the info your require is in this thread and the above posted thread link, including arguments on good vs bad cons

Will not hurt your engine
1-2mm mild steel, stainless steel, aluminium
T-piece is already on your vacuum lines just need to re-locate it
 
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With the egr solenoid how there is just a loop from top valve to bottom, just this need to have flow ( hose not crimped or a kink) or is this just acting as a blanking piece?
 

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