2010 YD25 D22 Catch can pics

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big.col

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I was going to tackle the EGR today but after opening up the pipe realised the previous owner must have already done it. So instead I gave the catch can a shot, I havnt seen many other YD25 catch can photos so I thought I would include some. Please tell me I did it right!

Heres the items I used:

Calibre Catch can $60 (Supercheap)
1.5mx16mm clear fuel hose $24 (Clark Rubber)
3x Pot Scrubbers $4 (Woolies)

And heres how it ended up looking:
 
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Here are the pics, let me know what you think!
 

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It look correct. Good job.

Question has your top mount intercooler been removed for a front mount item? Just don't understand where the pipework is coming from
 
And off topic, some pics of the intercooler

And off topic, some pics of the intercooler for your viewing pleasure.
 

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Thanks rusty, your in luck, I took some photos of the intercooler when i had the grille off today :)
 
shit thats a massive intercooler? surely the small turbo wouldn't need one that big?
 
Dumb question but i dont see why a new motor needs a catch can, please tell

When i removed the old PCV tube there was black gunk stuck all through the insides, just like resin on a bong's hose. I also had to take apart the intercooler piping to mount the Catch can and there was oily residue all through the piping. This is the stuff thats going into your intake without a catch can, regardless of new/old motor.
 
I was going to tackle the EGR today but after opening up the pipe realised the previous owner must have already done it. So instead I gave the catch can a shot, I havnt seen many other YD25 catch can photos so I thought I would include some. Please tell me I did it right!

Heres the items I used:

Calibre Catch can $60 (Supercheap)
1.5mx16mm clear fuel hose $24 (Clark Rubber)
3x Pot Scrubbers $4 (Woolies)

And heres how it ended up looking:

Hey mate I'm in need of a block plate incase you want to send it my way, happy to pay
 
Hey mate I'm in need of a block plate incase you want to send it my way, happy to pay

I paid $33 for mine, i know there are a few others on here who can get you one for $10

Look here:

http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=14879

Have you checked your local Diesel Chipping place/mod shop? I got mine from "Chip it"

I will sell it to you if u cant find a cheaper one.

Cheers :)
 
That is a very clean setup. Certainly beats the pissy top mount unit that comes standard. Good stuff mate

Definitely a neat setup with that monster cooler. I spun out when i saw it lol. I generally expect to see this sort of stuff in VL turbos, rexxies 'n stuff. But not in a d22! :confused2:

Also a lot of people told me the 2.5YDT don't need a catch can, so now i'm even more confused. Makes me want to just install one anyway.
 
Definitely a neat setup with that monster cooler. I spun out when i saw it lol. I generally expect to see this sort of stuff in VL turbos, rexxies 'n stuff. But not in a d22! :confused2:

Also a lot of people told me the 2.5YDT don't need a catch can, so now i'm even more confused. Makes me want to just install one anyway.

Disconnect the hose and have a look inside then tell me you dont need one :p
 
Disconnect the hose and have a look inside then tell me you dont need one :p

I have a d22 and wonder about the need for a catchcan also,

because the way I see it, the excess oil may assist in upper cylinder lubrication. and since diesels can run on even vegetable oil, the excess engine oil would act as a normal combustible fuel, even possibly improving the economy of the engine.
 
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i no this is topic but changine it from a top mount to a front did it make any noticable difference?
 
I have a d22 and wonder about the need for a catchcan also,

because the way I see it, the excess oil may assist in upper cylinder lubrication. and since diesels can run on even vegetable oil, the excess engine oil would act as a normal combustible fuel, even possibly improving the economy of the engine.

Mate I think your exactly right, if this was a turbo petrol engine then fair enough, but its a diesel we are talking about.......diesel is OIL!!
Oil residue is bound to occur!! If it were that much of a problem wouldnt all the diesels in the past have issues aswell?
 
ive got a feeling that it is a very light mist however it would fill your intercooler with oil probably getting trapped in there this would just reduce the amount going in there not completely eliminate it so you would still have a small amount of oil going through your intake if your were worried about the upper cylinder lubrication issue and alot of older diesels do have problems especially when they have a few k's on them alot of the time you notice an oil sweat from the intake pipes after the pcv inlet( i no of a freinds old triton that pisses oil out like its oil in one of those garden mister sprayer bottles however his has a serious problem he goes through the engines capacity in oil inbetween services allmost daily top ups)
 
I have a d22 and wonder about the need for a catchcan also,

because the way I see it, the excess oil may assist in upper cylinder lubrication. and since diesels can run on even vegetable oil, the excess engine oil would act as a normal combustible fuel, even possibly improving the economy of the engine.

copied from a post by northside 4x4
explains egr process

EGR: How it works, What it does, What are the drawbacks to it for the end user.

EGR is designed for one purpose, to reduce the amount of NoX or Oxides of Nitrogen produced by the combustion process.
Two main factors contribute to NoX generation.

Temperature and Pressure.

By passing burnt exhaust gas back into the intake system, we reduce the amount of fresh air available for the fuel to mix and burn with. This reduces how much temperature is generated through each combustion cycle.

By rights, this does not pose any kind of problem apart from reduced torque.
So by removing this system, you generally will notice a small improvement in economy and power. But, the EGR system is only operating at idle and light cruise conditions. So high load engine running is completely unaffected.

The problem arises from the engine breather system which is recirculating blow by or oil vapour back into the intake system also.

Once these two mix (Exhaust gas and Oil) it forms a horrible paste that resembles vegemite and builds up on the internal walls of the intake manifold and head ports.

Once there is a coating on the manifold, it provides a nice sticky surface for more EGR build to stick to also. Snowball effect.

The more buildup that is stuck to the manifold and head ports the smaller the ports become.
Smaller ports do not flow as much air as larger ports obviously.

Over time, this significantly reduces the amount of airflow through the engine. The boost level will remain the same however (remember Pressure and Flow are two different characteristics of an engine)

On All older diesel engines without electronic control, the injector pump will continue to inject the same quantity of fuel regardless. It has no idea the engine is down on airflow.

On most newer DI/CRD engines, the Air flow meter is referenced but this does not always mean the fuel system will deliver less fuel with the reduced flow. Often it is simply throttle position and boost that is used to determine how much fuel is being injected.

With less oxygen in the cylinders, the same amount of fuel will not burn as efficiently and it will continue to burn for longer through the power stroke. Significantly increasing EGT, and lowering the potential efficiency and torque output of the engine.

There are two way's around this dilemma.
1) Remove the EGR system early on in the picture so it cant cause these problems.
2) Use a good quality engine de carboniser at regular periods (every service)
Some cars are seriously effected by the removal or blanking of the EGR system, thus option two is the only way to go on these vehicles at the moment.


LINK TO ORIGINAL POST
http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=11687
 
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