2010 D22 Dual Battery Setup
- Thread starter nathan_lunn86
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bods
Member
^^i've had mine like that for probably close to 18 months now and haven't had any problems with it. still starts fine in the winter we have had this year even after sitting for a week with just the one cranking battery
Mupersan
Member
2010 + D22 Dual Battery Setup
So, i guess that i am pretty late to this conversation, but i have some extra info for Navara d22 owners. I have a 2014 model with the dual battery, and aftr some research, decided to disconnect the second battery. Both batteries are connected individually to the alternator. When standing in front of the open bonnet, looking in, the battery on the left appears to be the secondary battery, only because it has a few extras connected to it, whereas the RHS has nothing but the connection to the alternator.
I bought a Redarc SBI12, basic, but will do the trick. I have discussed this connection sequence with Redarc, who agree with me.
As follows:
Disconnect the pos battery cable.
Detach from the terminal connector
Crimp on a new connector and attach to the Redarc. We are now running from the alternator to the Redarc.
Run a new cable from the Redarc to the pos battery terminal, using the same thickness cable.
Dont forget to install a fuse inline. I used a 60amp inline as per the REdarc installation manual.
Next...
I ran pos and neg cable from the battery to the tub, using 110amp 3B&S cable. I ran each cable in a separate flexi conduit, carefully avoiding all moving parts and following existing cable runs under the vehicle. This cable is also fused with a 60amp inline fuse.
Currently the system is connected to a 600w pure sinewave inverter for charging drill batteries, but will be connected to batteries at a later date. I am building my collection of 7.5ah lithium batteries and will use them for the necessary power.
I hope this helps anyone that needs it.
So, i guess that i am pretty late to this conversation, but i have some extra info for Navara d22 owners. I have a 2014 model with the dual battery, and aftr some research, decided to disconnect the second battery. Both batteries are connected individually to the alternator. When standing in front of the open bonnet, looking in, the battery on the left appears to be the secondary battery, only because it has a few extras connected to it, whereas the RHS has nothing but the connection to the alternator.
I bought a Redarc SBI12, basic, but will do the trick. I have discussed this connection sequence with Redarc, who agree with me.
As follows:
Disconnect the pos battery cable.
Detach from the terminal connector
Crimp on a new connector and attach to the Redarc. We are now running from the alternator to the Redarc.
Run a new cable from the Redarc to the pos battery terminal, using the same thickness cable.
Dont forget to install a fuse inline. I used a 60amp inline as per the REdarc installation manual.
Next...
I ran pos and neg cable from the battery to the tub, using 110amp 3B&S cable. I ran each cable in a separate flexi conduit, carefully avoiding all moving parts and following existing cable runs under the vehicle. This cable is also fused with a 60amp inline fuse.
Currently the system is connected to a 600w pure sinewave inverter for charging drill batteries, but will be connected to batteries at a later date. I am building my collection of 7.5ah lithium batteries and will use them for the necessary power.
I hope this helps anyone that needs it.
bods
Member
Not sure how you came to the conclusion that the left battery would be an auxiliary battery because it has extra wires connected to it... If you look at every other car with a single battery, they have fusible links, etc that run off the main terminal. One of these will be a voltage sensing wire for the alternator so it doesn't overcharge the batteries. They only have 2 because they went from an n70zz in the zd30 to about an ns70 size in the yd25,which is a good couple of hundred CCA smaller... They work in parallel, so effectively give around 900 -1000 CCA instead of around 500 as a single battery. The n70zz is around the 700cca mark... The power distribution box is always closest to the main battery, the shorter the cable, the less voltage drop and because this is on the drivers side next to the battery, I can only assume the drivers side is the main battery....there is a perfect spot on the drivers inside quarter panel to mount a basic dual battery isolator, I will put up a pic of mine...
Here you go
Here you go
Last edited:
RustyNav09
Member
I had the batteries tested and they came out at 500cca. So running parallel they equal 1000cca. I pulled the passenger side out and waited for the drivers side to die, which lasted 12months. Put in a 800cca amaron n70zz in and haven't had any issues since. Amaron claim there battery is a true no maintenance battery. We will see.
Rusty
Rusty
bods
Member
To add to my post from above, I'm still using the standard batteries... I will keep them until they die, but at the moment they're still going strong...
