2008 D40 questions...And Issues - SOLVED

[Black_Outlaw]

Hi Guys..

Well after acquiring my D40, and having it go into DPF limp mode - then researching the crap outta it so I did not have to pay the $4500 for a new one I found a company that "cleans back to new" the DPF's.. Big in the trucking industry apparently.. Anyway, if you're in Perth and still have that DPF and Nissan wants to charge you for a new one, Take it to Enviro Exhaust in Maddington.. $500 and your DPF is like it come from factory..

Anyway, after getting that done - and having the NAV back on the road, the car went into limp mode again.. No lights.. Turned it off and then back on, CEL illuminated.. Another restart and all power was back... Took it home and changed to other car.. Left if for the weekend.. Started it on Sunday night to idle / change cars around and .... The CEL light went out.

Researching on here I found the MAFS get dirty - so given mine has plenty of Km's on it - i removed it and found it the be BLACK.. Cleaned back to new and thought "Much better"..

Quick drive - and all was good.. Until the power went again.. Few restarts and it was back but the CEL light was on.. Drive some more and CEL light goes out..

Could this be crappy fuel? I am angst to take it to the dealer to get charged $100 for the right to read the code..

Also, given it's got a fair few KM on it, there is sludge in the intake pipe - and god only knows where else.. Clean it? I need to do the EGR mod i read about, but that will only stop more build up..

Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated.. New to 4wd and Diesels..

On another topic, great forum.. I belong to quite a few car ones, and they often fall into sh!t fights, slagging and bagging.. I must have read 200+ threads so far and I've not seen one.. Some great member contributions here too.. Nice to see there is civility out there still..

 

[nakedape]

Hi Guys..


On another topic, great forum.. I belong to quite a few car ones, and they often fall into sh!t fights, slagging and bagging.. I must have read 200+ threads so far and I've not seen one.. Some great member contributions here too.. Nice to see there is civility out there still..

No, we fall into slagging and shit fights too -- but we try to keep that sort of fun and game for the clubhouse area

Tell me, did you do a reset after the DPF was cleaned? I don't have one and haven't really followed the related threads but I recall something about resetting the cpu after playing with the dpf

 

[Black_Outlaw]

It was in at Nissan, so I can only assume they where competent enough to do that..

I only did the leg work to get around paying their exorbitant pricing for a new DPF..

I think first Mod on the car - DPF Removal pipe!

Maybe the Pressure Relief Valve?

 

[nakedape]

Don't really know dude -- can only suggest a re-read of DPF related threads. Might also be useful to get a full rundown on what nissan did/ didn't do.

 

[JPMC]

Set the diagnostic mode by doing the following and it will tell you the code.

Turn ignition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds.

PUMP accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 seconds....

With foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedal for 10 seconds...

After 10 seconds the Engine Management Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... It will flash slow first followed by 3 fast times. each group of flashs relates to a number. Count the flashes and post the result and someone will tell you what to look for (ie 10 slow, 5 fast, 4 fast, 3 fast = 0543.)

 

[Old.Tony]

I agree that getting the code is important.

Your DPF could be fine, but might have a sensor failure (which will make the ECM think there's something wrong with the DPF).

It was in at Nissan, so I can only assume they where competent enough to do that..

I think you mean a Nissan dealer. You'll find that "Dealer" and "Competent" are not only spelt quite differently, but they often have quite opposing meanings.

I think first Mod on the car - DPF Removal pipe!

Maybe the Pressure Relief Valve?

Get the codes before jumping at things like that. The fuel rail is another expensive item. Removing the DPF won't fix the problem if the sensors are damaged. They are expected to return similar values to the ECM and won't if one of them is damaged.

A useful 'gadget' to have is a bluetooth OBD adapter (ELM327-compliant). There are plenty to be had on eBay (OBD-II for your model car). Then grab an Android phone and download the Torque application from the Play Store - it will read the codes for you (and much much more).

 

[Black_Outlaw]

Ok. Code is 0335.

 

[Black_Outlaw]

Ok. Code is 0335. It's not thrown it again and gone into limp mode for 160km. Previously it would so less than 20km.

Tony, I do have an Obd-11 connector. I used it for my other car - V8 VE Commodore. However given I have has the car for 2 weeks and one of those was at a dealership I'd not tried it.

In reference to competent and dealerships, you are whole heartedly correct. I believe that is where the term 'Stealership' came from.

I was all too frazzled when the DPF went 2hours after getting the car, hence my dislike for it.

I just need to believe that it won't keep breaking down and I will be able to use it to go camping, beach fishing and 4WDing.

I appreciate all and any help. Petrol engines are more my forte. Diesel is all new and scared right now!

 

[JPMC]

Ok that codes is for the crankshaft position sensor.

The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor is located on the cylinder
block rear housing facing the gear teeth (cogs) of the signal plate at
the end of the crankshaft. It detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
The sensor consists of a permanent magnet and Hall IC.
When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth
cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes
the magnetic field near the sensor to change. Due to the changing
magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes. The ECM
receives the voltage signal and detects the fluctuation of the engine
revolution.

Attached is pages out the workshop manual about diagnosing it.

 

[Black_Outlaw]

Yeah I was just reading about that. I wonder if the pressure clean / detail could have got some moisture in there??

Is this something that gets worse? Should it happen frequently?

It's becoming obvious why the last person got rid of the vehicle.. 2 big ticket repairs required so they turfed it hoping nothing would fail on it until it was well and truly gone..



By the way, thanks for the fault finding PDF. Ill go through and check them this weekend. Will try and get a mechanic mate roped in for expertise

Great forum, greats people..

 

[Old.Tony]

Legend, JPMC.

The full manual describes the diagnostic procedure for determining where the fault is. It starts by checking the grounding of the ECM and the vehicle body (left side of the engine bay behind the headlight - it'll be below the airfilter). There is a chance in a 2008 model vehicle that there's an issue with the ground, especially if you or the previous owner had done any water crossings.

The second thing to check is the connector to the CPS. One of the outer pins will have the same voltage present as the battery (between the CPS connector pin and vehicle body) - this is pin 1. The opposite pin (pin 3) should have continuity to earth so test resistance to vehicle body/engine.

Pin 2 of the CPS connector should have continuity with pin 13 of the ECM.

After that, it's part replacement time.

 

[Black_Outlaw]

OK.. Little update..

I checked all the sensors, and they all checked out fine on the DPF.. So, against my better judgement, I filled the tank with BP's finest and some fuel and injector cleaner (just because it was suggested by a fellow mechanic)..

Got in the car, and hit the highway.. 100km/h.. 10 minutes - DPF still on.. 20 minutes - still one.. At this point I was positive it was something more and turned around.. some 35 mins on I looked at the cluster....and.... DPF light was out.. It had done it's burn thing and was back to where it should be.. Notable increase in power too..

So, I am thinking that it was my driving style for the week that filled it.. Lots of slow crawl peak hour, mashing the accelerator, short drives.. Starts and stops.. Apparently all the things that fill a DPF rather quickly.. I was treating it more like my 450HP V8 SSv and not a TD Navara.. I need to be more subtle on the throttle..

Anyway's I have checked all Earth spots and they are secure. the CAS seems nice now and I have not had the CEL from it for near on 600KM, so I am hoping it was infact moisture.

Now maybe I might be able to enjoy the car, and stop fretting about it breaking down!!

Thanks to all that have posted suggestions and things to look for. From a Noob to Diesels it is much appreciated..

 

[Old.Tony]

Glad to hear it's functioning well now.

It's not an easy thing, commenting about driving style and inferring that someone isn't driving properly. It's been done before and sometimes ruffles some fur!

 

[JPMC]

If you plan on using around town quite a bit the best advise I could give would be to either gut the DPF or put in a delete pipe now you have sorted the problem and then you can drive however you like without having to worry about it happening again.

 

[Black_Outlaw]

DPF delete pipe ordered. As to has my driving style been altered for the car. Ill admit straight up that it was my driving style that Made the DPF light come on after getting it all fixed.

Seems I spoke to early on the CAS as last night heading out car lost all power and it took several restarts to get it back to full power again then it went fine for the rest of the night.

Can anyone recommend a good mechanic on Perth to get it sorted? I've had the navara for 3 weeks and its had a fault for every single on of them Would love to take it down south for the long weekend but right now I can't trust it

 

[Black_Outlaw]

UPDATE..

Cleaned all the EARTH points as per the attached document.. Tightened a few lose hoses while I was there too, particularly the leaking pre and post inter-cooler hoses..

Car drove great for 100km... Then limp mode.. Removed the CAS and wiring and checked for breakage.. The Sensor itself was covered in black oil crap..

Put it back in.. car starts, still in limp mode... Then on restart it won't start..

Call RAC - he starts it first go, and car drives great.. Then goes into Limp mode again.

Car was then put on a trayback and dropped off to Nissan.. I suspect faulty / damaged CAS.. I am sure Nissan won't mind charging me $148 an hour to Diagnose this fact..

So - Stay tuned ...

 

[Black_Outlaw]

UPDATE #2..

Possible loose/corroded ground or earth lead on the Starter Motor... That "fixed" the 0335 code (though I have had it thrown before and go away, so not too confident)

Dealership now has codes of 0340/0341 which is Cam Angle Sensor...

Seems never ending...