Search results

I think what I'd do is just take the gearbox out and have a look, try to work out exactly what's wrong before buying a heap of parts. It could even be a bearing on the input shaft of the gearbox. If it's something easy to fix I'd give the rest of it an inspection and take it from there. I really...

edit.

Yes, he's taking the piss (a leftover from an old thread). Changing the clutch is probably around $1.5k at a mechanic, or less than half that if you do it yourself. Usually you'd change the rear main crank seal while your at it (another hundred or so for the seal) because to do that requires...

The thrust bearing should be back away from the clutch diaphram and only make contact when you push in the clutch and it engages/slides forwards. Though if it wears like mine did (basically fell apart) it can be against the clutch all the time and make noises. Could be a spigot bush as has been...

The common wisdom would be "yes" change everything while it's apart. Though I'm confident the clutch on mine would have been fine for the life of the car, only changed it because I had one ready to go. Are you keeping it?

How many miles? Only that I brought a replacement clutch (and rear main) before I took the gearbox out (all for a thrust bearing), not sure I would have bothered. It was in quite good condition for 300k kms, think it would have lasted the lifetime of the car. Still an ordinary job either way though.

Mine squeaked/squeeled quite well when it went. The bearinghad parted company with the enclosure that is held in place by the fork. The bearing wasn't good either, but the only time it was quiet was when the clutch was in, pushing it all back together. You could be right though. Have heard of...

ps. be careful if you undo slave cylinder to take the rubber boot off, as it's then easy for the pivot arm spring to unclip from the pivot while doing it. Usually they clip straight back on but best avoided if possible. Should be able to slide it back far enough to have a look without taking it...

You should be able to remove the rubber boot from the pivot arm and get a torch to have a look at the bearing itself. Might have to temporarily unbolt the slave cylinder while you do it, the rubber should slide off. Mine had basically fallen apart, when the clutch was pushed it squeezed it all...

I know what you mean, a big job just to change a little bearing. That's similar to how mine went though. Noticed a squeak while idling. It had completely collapsed, took it out in peices. If you lay under and have a listen you might get a better idea.

Thrust bearing?

Lokka makes a big difference. Got to be careful though, can get you places you normally wouldn't go, and sometimes to places you shouldn't go! lol.

Yep, mine takes two pumps, it's difficult to squeeze on the second, but completely solid on the third one. So it sounds like you're getting air into the system. Something isn't sealing, could be a hose, filter seal or the primer itself.

Which year D22? Is it doing this at low speed when chucking a u-ee (u-turn lol)? D22's are well known for this as izzibri pointed out, it's the steering stoppers, the nylon caps wear out. Some grease fixes that. Is it at moderate speeds? I used to get a clunking sound at roundabouts that was...

Need more info Wilbert. What exactly is it doing, do you mean it's "slow" when accellerating? Why did you replace the head? Anything else done to it?

Great stuff mate. Was going to ask if you're in lockdown too, the amount of tinkering you've done lol. Though you've been out camping, which I guess answers that question. Great to see your getting it how you want it, and most important, using it how you want!

Sorry, the info I put up was not much use, Aus distributers that won't post to UK.

edit.

edit.

ps. the best way to think of the -ve re the aerial, is that it surrounds the aerial wire and being grounded protects it from stray or induced voltages/signals. The actual -ve for the stereo will either be through a seperate wire or via mounting the stereo itself.