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Nice RIG there Dave.... They look really nice with all the ARB gear on too.... One of the 1st things I'd be doing is installing a good quality RACOR 2nd Fuel Filter to protect the Common Rail engine from any chance of getting a dose of dirty fuel..... look forward to reading your build.....

I would have thought that it might depend on your vehicle mods (ie Chip, exhaust, etc) and whether u do alot of towing, etc..... In saying that I'm still running the original size tyres but will be looking at upgrading to 32's in the near future, so keen to near people's results...... I know...

The 4.625 is better if you are running bigger tyres... the 4.375 is good for H'way driving but if u are running the bigger tyres then u will suffer on take-off....

Your right in the fact that the CV should go 1st.... I've done a few in the Zook because once u have the lockers in you have to look at doing harder tracks to get the same enjoyment/thrill as u did when u were unlocked and that's where the breakages begin.... I remember thinking that it wasn't...

They can fail. If you look on the Web/Youtube there is some info and vid's of them failing but u usually got to be doing something extreme for it to happen.... but in saying that, I had one fail on my zook.... The 4 small pins sheered off on mine but I put this down to dodgy pins.... but the...

Smart financial choice..... Once u get use to changing your driving style, you'll love it. The trick it easing off the throttle when wanting to turn and the AL will unlock allowing u to turn more freely, apply more throttle and it's locked again..... The AL is pretty locked always under...

It all comes down to $$. If $$ is no issue then F&R Airlockers... If u want the best for the least $$ spent, then a FRONT Autolocker. Mid-range.... then Front Air Locker. I have F&R Auto Lockers in my zook and while it goes most places, the Rear Autolocker is a PITA on the bitumen in tight...

So, there's not difference in the rails/tracks themselves... just longer ?? Is all the Rails/tracks exactly the same but just vary in length? Is there any issues with the curve of the D22 roof that would cause a problem??

Totally agree.... I've got a little Vitara (incl some mods :) )for weekend bushwork...... brilliant.... go just about anywhere and u don't have to worry about panel work, pin striping, etc..... small enough to get through the tightest of tracks too

Yeah, I'm not talking about Low Range here but your normal High Range. Most Manuals these days have poor gearing in 1st gear HIGH range....which results in the clutch issues "if u tow" heavy loads....If you're not towing, then manual would be fine I suppose.....

Looks like they will have to cut around the front bumper section, same as they did for our Prado.... We paid around $2200 for ours to be fitted from memory so I would it would be close to that.... maybe as high as $2400 if they are new. Do u plan in doing a lot of towing? If so, ask what's the...

What about low down torque..... I've heard that by removing the exhaust totally that u can loose torque down low....?

Jamie an Leon have always been the owners and & Lindsay works for them. Not sure is there is a family relationship there or not. They moved their business back up to Caboolture and into a smaller place...... reasons? one can only guess. The few times I've been up they always seem very busy and...

Agreed.... but not now.... looking at EFS but I've got a fair bit of time b4 I need to bit the bullet and buy.... so I'm still looking and researching around at what's out there....

Is it just the Navara's that are having problems, or have people also heard problems with other makes of cars ?? I assume they make them for Toyota's; Ford's; Mazda's, etc...

Mate, I did the EGR on mine, & I noticed a "little" more torque down low but not enough to fix the poor take-off. I did also notice the Turbo whistle a little more after the mod too...... Mines running a front mount intercooler; Ditronic Chip & a 2.75 exhaust and the car only has got 255/70/16...

Mate.... To be honest, I don't think what u do will stop yours from bogging down when towing heavy loads.... it's more a poor gearing in 1st gear kinda thing. Why manufacturers plate their 4cyl TD utes to be able to tow 3T+ then have a HIGH 1st gear is beyond me. I would have thought common...

Cool..... We actually came across the Owner (John Swinglehurst) of the Lifestyle Campertrailer business at the Dig Tree last year in June '12. Him and a group of his mates who were also towing Lifestyle campers were x-ing the Simpson while testing his new models..... nothing like a tax...

I see one of the people in your group has a Lifestyle Campertrailer.... How did it go?? We had one of the 1st/2nd model ones and for the build quality and money, it was imho one of the best Campertrailers around, tuff as nails, but heavy though. Great pics by the way.... no mechanical issues...

Cheers for that...... I'll have a look for it tomorrow. By unplugging the plug and checking the continuity of the switch will tell me whether its stuffed or not? When NOT in Reverse, should there be a open circuit reading or the opposite?