Urgent help Newbie

[Alexs_D40]

Hey guys im a newbie with all the diesel and navara stuff
Ive done my research but nothing

Ive got a D40 Navara 2.5L Diesel

Had it for around 3 weeks now

Went for 4wd driving on the weekend and it started stalling on me
Only when hot so far.cold starts seem fine

Id be driving and just conk out so dangerous almost went thru a round
About. Went into limp mode once or twice

But mainly stalls and when i turn it on just dies after few seconds


Anyone????

Its auto btw

Thanks in advance

 

[Old.Tony]

Welcome to the forum.

It's possibly the SCV (Suction Control Valve) on the fuel pump, but it could also be an electrical gremlin.

First test: remove your fuel cap, then place it on the fuel opening and turn it 180 degrees to the right (which means it's only just holding on). Take the car for a drive - if the problem goes away, it's most likely your SCV. Remove the SCV, clean it in petrol, rinse it in diesel and reinstall.

If that doesn't change anything, start looking at earth connections (the most common point of failure). The battery is a good start (both terminals). Check the other end of the negative cable. Look near the ECU (look in my garage for a map of the engine bay) to find its earth, remove it, ensure that the metal-to-metal contact areas are clean and free of corrosion, reinstall.

If things still don't improve, you might have dirty injectors. A bottle of Liqui Moly Injector may work wonders but at the very least won't do any harm - SCA sell two, one's about $18 and the other is a "Deep Cleaner" for around $25, you want the more expensive one.

You might also want to check that your turbocharger is being controlled properly. Hot or cold, the actuator (the round gold thing on the top of the turbocharger) should be working. Look underneath the actuator (a good torch helps) to see a 10mm thick arm that moves up and down (into and out of the turbocharger underneath) about 3-5mm at idle. If you don't see the movement, then it's either a vac leak, failed solenoid or failed actuator circuitry.

After that we're getting in to CAS connections or the CAS itself. It's a good idea to disconnect and reconnect any plug you see around the engine, this action will help to remove any unwanted material that might be preventing the electrical signals to flow properly.

 

[Alexs_D40]

Wow thanks mate big write up

I get onto them n see if it will fix anything