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rom

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hi, I am new to this forum.hi to everyone... and I own a Nissan Navara d40 accent 2012. I hope someone can help me out... please.I've a problem with my pickup. the fob key. turn the key to start it just clicks. the battery is brand new. there's a red light with a key on the instrument panel flashing. so I thought it could be the key needs reprogramming. an auto chap came along and did his tests. he said there's no power to the transponder-reader to read the chip.so I brought a Nissan transponder. and fitted it. the auto chap came out. he said there's no power going to the transponder..he checked all the fuses... all. he said I need an auto electrician to sort it out once that's done then the key can be recoded. the car when turn to ignition just turns. no start slight click. the red light on the instrument panel is still there with the key set in the background... its a nightmare. I cant use the pickup for work... my wife is giving me grief........ regards ROM
 
A failure in the key fob is unusual. Batteries do die though, I've had to replace the battery in my key, but that was obvious because the usual key stopped working and the other original key had no problem unlocking the car.

The usual culprit for a clicking sound when trying to engage the starter is a weak battery or a poor battery connection. It sometimes is the starter solenoid itself (not often) and rarely the starter gears not engaging.

If it's the BCM (responsible for the key's communication with the car) I'd be looking at earth points under the dash. These can become disturbed by work in the dash area (stereo replacement can cause this issue). There's a really easy fix and I'd try this before anything else, if the battery is ok: attach a wire from the frame of the stereo to one of the mounting bolts for the dash itself. This will provide a good earth point and may resolve the problem (it will not hurt anything, the stereo frame is supposed to be earthed!). It's worth noting that the instrument cluster shares an earth with the stereo, and it's often been the case that erratic instrumentation issues are cleared when this earth is fixed.

Let us know how you go.
 
i had that problem with one of my cars I DIDNT HAVE ANY CLICKING and all i used to do was open up key and pull out battery and reinstall it always it fixed the problem , try new battery in the key ring.. . with lights on high beam engage your key if they dim a lot then either battery faulty or massive drain (starter)when my car had LOUD clicking it was always caused by the solonoid on starter when its failed.. try giving the solonoid a sharp tap with a metal object not on the front outer piece which has the backerlite contacts. IF ITS SOFT CLICKING it could be the starter relay WHICH IS SUPPOSED TO SUPPLY POWER TO SOLONOID . you can determine this by having a helper touch each one when you engage the key. if its the relay thats clicking swap it with one with the same PART NUMBER your fuse box would have multiple relays.. check starter fuses as i am not sure if power goes to relay first then through a fuse to the solonoid
 
this is probably irrelavant but does car have neutral park safety switch. if the relay is clicking , doesnt explain the red light on cluster. it happened to me when i would drop my keys and the transponder would dislodged inside the key holder and turn itself side ways (after market key holder). it was irregular shape and i had to push it back into place,, so is the transponder fitted correctly .. if the slot is irregular shape try it with original transponder and if you removed the round battery make sure it is not in reverse.. from what i been told putting new transponder would require reprograming
 

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hi. it's not the key transponder. that's ok.I had a lock and key chap come out. and they told me there's no power going to the transponder-reader to read the codes. then they suggested getting an auto electrician to check it over. it's not the starter motor.It's something to do with the computer.not being able to read the codes. hence why it won't start. I am still trying to get hold of an auto electrician. there all booked up. thanks for your suggestion ;0)
 
A failure in the key fob is unusual. Batteries do die though, I've had to replace the battery in my key, but that was obvious because the usual key stopped working and the other original key had no problem unlocking the car.

The usual culprit for a clicking sound when trying to engage the starter is a weak battery or a poor battery connection. It sometimes is the starter solenoid itself (not often) and rarely the starter gears not engaging.

If it's the BCM (responsible for the key's communication with the car) I'd be looking at earth points under the dash. These can become disturbed by work in the dash area (stereo replacement can cause this issue). There's a really easy fix and I'd try this before anything else, if the battery is ok: attach a wire from the frame of the stereo to one of the mounting bolts for the dash itself. This will provide a good earth point and may resolve the problem (it will not hurt anything, the stereo frame is supposed to be earthed!). It's worth noting that the instrument cluster shares an earth with the stereo, and it's often been the case that erratic instrumentation issues are cleared when this earth is fixed.

Let us know how you go.
 
hi, ill try that. ill take the radio out and find a very good earth point. then attach a wire that's secure. ill keep you posted. thank you for your help. ;0) pos it's not the battery. or the starter motor. something to do with the car computer not reading any codes.
 
i had that problem with one of my cars I DIDNT HAVE ANY CLICKING and all i used to do was open up key and pull out battery and reinstall it always it fixed the problem , try new battery in the key ring.. . with lights on high beam engage your key if they dim a lot then either battery faulty or massive drain (starter)when my car had LOUD clicking it was always caused by the solonoid on starter when its failed.. try giving the solonoid a sharp tap with a metal object not on the front outer piece which has the backerlite contacts. IF ITS SOFT CLICKING it could be the starter relay WHICH IS SUPPOSED TO SUPPLY POWER TO SOLONOID . you can determine this by having a helper touch each one when you engage the key. if its the relay thats clicking swap it with one with the same PART NUMBER your fuse box would have multiple relays.. check starter fuses as i am not sure if power goes to relay first then through a fuse to the solonoid
 
hi ill try that. check the relay.... relay starter. thank you for your help ;0) ive checked the fuses.all. the starter relay ... i will check or just buy another one .from a nissan dealer.
 
The receiver for the key fob is in the centre of the dashboard near the windscreen vents. It's possible that it's been unplugged if someone's been at the stereo or have been digging around under the dash.

Question: if you sit in the driver's seat and press the "Lock" button on the centre console, do your doors lock and unlock?
 
The receiver for the key fob is in the center of the dashboard near the windscreen vents. It's possible that it's been unplugged if someone's been at the stereo or have been digging around under the dash.

Question: if you sit in the driver's seat and press the "Lock" button on the centre console, do your doors lock and unlock?
if I try and use my fob with a new battery inside and without even putting the key in the ignition the doors will not lock.but if I put the key in the ignition and turn on.the doors will operate up and down. I am not sure about what u mentioned concerning under the dash near the vents. keep in mind the lockand key chap said there's no codes. so there's no power going to the com. my nissan navara 2012 diesil pickup 4x4 ignition start. thank you.
 
I'm unable to help you regarding the power to the RFID transponder but I do know if it has not read the code from the key and you attempt to start it 3 times. The programing of the BCM locks the ECU and the vehicle will not be able to start regardless. It not just a normal key recode. They have to get the Serial number off the BCM, ring up, with the right Authorisation and get the code for the BCM. I know this (it's a long story but willing to share it) I have gone though the whole rigmarole myself and not one I want to go through again.

With D40's all keys must be present at encoding. You can't get one encoded and add a key later.

I was told by the locksmith he had replaced a couple of Nissan transponders and a bloke at work who has a Nissan. Not a D40 had to have his replaced so rare but it does happen.
 

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