New clutch help.

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Lawry

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Just installed a chipit module, and with the extra added torque/kw the clutch now wont hold.

Slips during heavy acceleration in high gears.

Keep in mind that the pedal stroke is right near the end, so its not a complete surprise.

Anyway Ive done a bit of searching and im aware i need a single mass clutch- (zd30 (03)) navara.

My father and i have done a bit of work on cars in the past and i understand what is required to install a new clutch.

Can this job be tackled by your average backyard mechanic? is where anything i should look out for. eg.- seperating the bell housing? is there enough room to remove the flywheel to get it machined.

Does the service manual cover a step by step clutch installation guide?

Finally what cost is it to get the flywheel surface skimmed.

Cheers Matt
 
Its a bit of a job, I personally took it to a mechanic. Some advise I fount out after the event tho is while you got it all apart change the rear main seal at the same time. Saves pulling it apart twice!!!
What choise of clutch have you gone? From what it sounds like, you need a exceedy HD clutch!
Make sure the flywheel is skimmed, Altho im not sure as to the going rate for that atm.
Good luck!!
 
Thanks albatross, Yer i hears its a bit of a job and you got it! i am after a exedy HD clutch. Trying to scope out the closest dealer at the best price, otherwise it will be ebay. Yer Ive heard that the rear main seal is something everyone change whilst the clutch is out. However the car only has 120 on it and no oil leaks from the bell housing. Still recommend i go for it- whats the cost of the seal?
 
Any time you have nearly enough of the mechanicals apart to get to an oil seal, do a little more work and put a seal in it too. Saves having to maybe do the same amount of work all over again a few months later when the seal you were looking at when the flywheel was off inevitably fails!

Seals are pretty cheap normally, but go to a bearing service and get one of the good hi temp ones, the normal black rubber seals go hard with heat pretty quickly and the hi temp ones are usually not much more.
 
To get the flywheel machined you are looking at 100 - 150 from any reputable machinist. The Exedy HD clutch I go in my Nav costs 750. If you do decide to do it yourself you will save 500+ in labour
 
Alrighty thanks guys

Im actually leaning now towards a 4Terrain HD 4x4 clutch.
can get them from a chap for $580 (kit)
Heard some good things about them.

when removing the gearbox, do i have to remove the torsion bars?
anything else that is difficult?

cheers Matt
 
hey mate,highly reccomend the HD exceedy,put one in a few months back and its awsome,also missus has tested it for me haha.
the rear main seal was $95,mine needed doing and i was at 124000kms.
and yea im pretty sure you have to remove the TBs as the mechanic F!@#$d my adjusting bolt on the torsion bars when he did the clutch,hate letting mechanics work on my ute,much rather di it myself but unfortuantly didnt have the time then.
 
Hey Craig

Thanks mate, yer i agree, i would rather work on my ute myself. always do, but im just worried with the torsion bars. Is there a special process to remove them?

I like the exedy HD but i can get one for 740, however the 4 terrain is so much cheaper and rated by some as better than exedy.

Im not in a position to pay heaps as i just spent the spare money on the chipit module.

Does anyone have a simple step by step guide to removing the gearbox.

eg- remove interior console, stick... etc
remove torsion,
center drive shafts
slave cylinder
bell housing bolts etc....

If someone could PM me or write here on a well written guide, so would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

Cheers Matt
 
torsion bars are piece off piss,i was a bit hesitant when i did mine for first time but after i did it i was suprised how simple it was.
after its jacked up and supported jump under and go to the adjuster bolts at the rear of the bars and take the dust boot off,
paint matching marks on the bar so you know exactly were it goes when you put it back togethertake the circlip off thats under the dust cover,
measure the petruding bolt at the top and record,
take the lock nut off (its the one on the very top of the bolt closest to the body of the car),
then put a spanner on the top nut (one under locknut) and a socket on the bolt head and undo until all tension is released,
dont take the nut all the way off until you know its not under tension,
then go to the front on the lower control arm and undo those three bolts and pull it reward foward and out.you might not have to do that last part but i had to coz it siezed on and required a few really good hit with a mallet.
go with the 4 terrain see how it goes mate,never no till you try,and if its that much cheaper cant argue with that.
sorry cant help with the other things.
 
Thanks craig, really appreciate it. glad to know i can sort the torsion bars out without being killed haha. was worried they would just let go.

Well that seem quite simple. With the center shafts out i should be able to jack the gearbox forward enough to get the clutch and flywheel off.

I will take a series of pic on the process, might be good to make a sticky- Especially when it can save you 600+

Anyone else that can add to the list "of how to's" which gearbox removal???
 
no worries mate, yea i was waiting for it to knock me clean out haha.
The only hard part is if its really rusted and seized so dont be shy with the wd40 before you start.
will be intrested to see how you go as if mine goes again id like to do it myself (never done a clutch).
anyways good luck!
 
Sorry for raising the dead - but I reckon I'll be replacing a clutch soon (bastard things only done 250k km) and want to know if you went for an exedy or the 4-terrain?

Ta.
 
hey mate

went the 4 terrain, 10k so far and the pedal feel is brand new, grips as hard as the day it was fitted.
purchased for...i think 650... or maybe a bit cheaper
 
Last edited:
fitted it myself- a big job!
bigger then average as my torsion bars were seized so i had to take the rear X member off and flex the torsions to drop the gearbox down and out far enough to do the clutch.
 
Make sure you do get the flywheel machined..If you dont you will not get warranty on the clutch if it fails prematurely.
 
Ta - think I'm up for the deluxe package, fly wheel, rear main and all. I think its leaking oil onto the clutch cause its shuddering like a shitting dog at take off & the occaisional down-shift. Been doing it for the last 50k but getting ridiculous now.
 

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