Navara D40 Turbo not working

[pvh]

hey guys/ladies.
so im pretty new to the world of 4x4. i got myself a 2008 navara STX D40
it has been going pretty good besides the occasional limp mode but now the turbo seems to have stopped working. i had it tested and the guy said it is producing pressure so he is sure the turbo is ok but i have no kick, im driving a tractor. the car doesnt smoke, no rattles, it drives fine it just has no turbo, anyone have any idea what it could be? any advice will be appreciated

 

[Passage GT]

almost sounds like what mine was doing, felt like it had something wrong with the turbo, it did make some boost but high in the rev range and it wasn't much, drove like a slug.
ended up being the air flow sensor was stuffed, put a new one in and it was good again.

 

[pvh]

thanks mate!
i had the air flow sensor replaced to fix the limp mode thing. but i will have a look and tell the mechanic about it

 

[Titanium_Tim]

Just pull the MAF sensor out (there is a thread on here now to do it) and give her a spray with some contact cleaner before you replace it. May just be really dirty?

If that is the issue you may want to look at why there is so much dirt getting through? How old is your air filter and what condition is it in?

 

[Old.Tony]

+1 on the MAFS and +2 on the air filter. Might be an idea to plug in a Scangauge or an Android app like Torque to see what boost your ECU is reporting.

If you've got a snorkel, inspect the grille. If the grille is missing or broken, check for birds down the snorkel in around the bend inside the guard. Yes, it has happened before (an owl, I believe).

 

[Titanium_Tim]

Also, if your running a K&N filter it is a good idea to clean the MAFS regularly as it tends pick up a fair amount of oil from the filter.

 

[pvh]

the car is 5 years old, it just had a major service done only 2 weeks ago, when i got it it went into limp mode after hard acceleration, they told me it was the airflow sensor on it, that got replaced but only fixed the problem for about a month. turns out my car was running to rich when i took it to the mechanics, they reprogrammed the injectors AND BAM LIMP MODE WAS FIXED!!!!
so when I had a look i noticed a tube being perished and sitting strange in my car on top of what i thought was my turbo and when i touched it it snapped off, i simply cleaned the nozzle off and replaced the tube to the nozzle and wouldnt you know it the turbo works fine again! i put a photo in here for you guys to have a look at and tell me what that is

 

[Passage GT]

looks like the turbo actuator, glad it was an easy fix dude!

 

[jjohn]

Good you solved it.
It is common for that tube to deteriorate. Should really be made of better suited material.
The turbo actuator solenoid also fails on this model causing the same symptoms as the vacuum can't get through.

 

[Old.Tony]

+1 on turbo actuator vacuum line. Seems they don't make 'em well enough to handle the heat.

Glad it wasn't a bird!

 

[Spookiiee]

Old post I know. I've just had this problem on my 07 stx D40. Sprayed the maf sensor and then p
Replaced it. Wasn't lucky. I believe the actuator is working... There is suction on the hose on top of the turbo. Blocking the other valves makes the engine starve. I believe the actuator is working and the lines are still in good condition. Any ideas?

 

[Old.Tony]

There are a few possibilities. I'm curious about "blocking the other valves" - if you mean the other vacuum hoses, then there's a vacuum leak somewhere and the hoses need replacing. The vacuum operates the turbocharger and the brake booster - how are your brakes? If it's not the vacuum hoses there are other options.

Sticking turbo vanes. It's happened before. They usually stick in the 'open' position so nobody knows it's failed especially since the car seems to go well most of the time. Easiest way to tell is to watch the actuator arm that goes into the turbocharger (it's underneath the actuator, about 8-10mm thick). It should move in and out about 3-5mm even at idle.

Damaged boost sensor (or a poor electrical connection to it). This is low on the "cold" side of the intercooler. Check its electrical connections first, but if you've got a bluetooth OBD adapter and a program like Torque, you will get poor, erratic or no boost readings if this is faulty/failed.

Other things to look at (zero cost): the earth of the ECU and the battery negative-to-engine cable and its connections on both sides. Make sure they're good and clean.

Let's see what that does. How long since you've had an injector service? Have you used any injector cleaner (particularly something really good like Liqui Moly)? What brand of fuel do you buy?

There might be issues with the CAT, the HO2S, injector registration, it all depends on who's been mucking around with what (and at this point, none of us know any of that info so we're really stabbing in the dark).