hey guys as title states is it easy to install a lift kit yourself? if so what are things i should lookout for that are difficult? also do i need any special tools apart from your standard socket set, jack, jack stands etc?
how easy is it to DIY installation of lift kit
- Thread starter lem
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stockstandard
Member
A rattle gun is pretty handy when doing this dude. I used a cordless Snap on one and it made **** so much easier. If you dont have accees to a rattle gun, then make sure you have a breaker bar at least. Gimpy hammer for bashing **** up when it needs some persuasion. Angle grinder - I had to cut out both of the pins on mine as they had fused to the bush.
Would recommend getting a mate to help you out, the fact that my bushes had fused to the springs meant it took way longer than it should have, luckily i had a mate there to give me a hand.
If you can get access to a hoist i would recommend it. The rear end on jack stands probably wouldn't be so bad but doing the front would be a bit of task, especially when it comes to getting the car level. You will be jacking the car up and down a few times at least to get the front right.
i would also be looking at getting some type gloves like mechanix. I didn't wear any when i did my car and I smashed my hands around something chronic and did some decent damage. Not essential, but a good think to have if, like me, you are good at slipping when undoing nuts.
Would recommend getting a mate to help you out, the fact that my bushes had fused to the springs meant it took way longer than it should have, luckily i had a mate there to give me a hand.
If you can get access to a hoist i would recommend it. The rear end on jack stands probably wouldn't be so bad but doing the front would be a bit of task, especially when it comes to getting the car level. You will be jacking the car up and down a few times at least to get the front right.
i would also be looking at getting some type gloves like mechanix. I didn't wear any when i did my car and I smashed my hands around something chronic and did some decent damage. Not essential, but a good think to have if, like me, you are good at slipping when undoing nuts.
Last edited:
d22dave
Member
Its not hard i,m sure someone has put a how to on here if you have a search, Plenty of wd40 or crc even a over a few days before you start, I,ve done it twice now, Just in the shed with a trolley jack and stands.
soak everything in penetrine or wd 40 for a few days beforehand
the hardest part imo is changing the torsion bars and getting the splines right
every thing else is relativly easy
you may also need to grind a small amount off your upper control arms so new shocks dont foul
on some of the later model 22's you also have to remove the steel "thing" on rear spring mounts
and be sure the t/bar adjuster is located in chassis correctly to aviod this happening
definatly a 2 man job
the hardest part imo is changing the torsion bars and getting the splines right
every thing else is relativly easy
you may also need to grind a small amount off your upper control arms so new shocks dont foul
on some of the later model 22's you also have to remove the steel "thing" on rear spring mounts
and be sure the t/bar adjuster is located in chassis correctly to aviod this happening
definatly a 2 man job
Haha, you had a prick of a time??? lucky there was lots of cold beer in the fridge!
cyc10n
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Damn straight. at one stage I was ready to burn it.. all the bushes had seized the pins for the leaf springs and I had no other way to take them out other then with a grinder
its easy as mate,the torsion bars may prove a bit of a pain but as others have said just soak it in wd40.it depends on the level of corrosion.with leveling it out for memory each full rotation on the adjuster bolt for the torsion bars is around 3-4mm in hieght so use that to get it close as possible the first time
