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Casper88

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Hi I have a 2007 d40 replaced the cams, head valves timing at Christmas time due to the poor quality from Nissan ( I'm not to happy with my car lol) now it's a month or so on I have loss most off my power under 2500rpm or when my boost kicks in and I'm blowing lots off black smoke if anyone can point me in the right direction as to what might be the issue thanks
 
Welcome aboard, Casper.

Given the age of the car, it is quite possibly the vacuum hoses for the turbocharger actuator that have perished. If they're easy to turn on the barbs, they're asking to be replaced. Vacuum pump is over near the oil filter, just replace all of the vacuum hose.

Of course, the actuator itself might be shot. After replacing the hoses, idle the car and watch the little arm underneath the actuator. It should go up and down about 2-4mm at idle. If it sits rock steady, it might be the diaphragm in the actuator or it could be sticking vanes in the turbo. If you remove the actuator you should be able to move the arm in and out. If you can't, the vanes are stuck. I doubt this is it, it doesn't happen often (that's reported here).

Another thing to try is cleaning the MAFS. Just a couple of centimetres from the airbox on the way to the turbocharger, undo the screws at the back and withdraw the sensor - it's a long flat thing with a small slot in one end. Whatever you do, don't put anything solid in that slot. Spray inside it with either electrical contact cleaner (Jaycar, $10) or MAFS cleaner (SCA, $18). They're the same thing, rebadged and resold for a higher price. Use either with confidence. If you have a oil-based air filter that'll be the cause.

One last thing it could be - the EGR valve might be sticking open. I doubt this is it, when the EGR valve sticks the car is hard to start. The fix won't hurt the car, will either do nothing at all or improve performance and economy. Remove the EGR tube from the inlet side of the pipe, make a copy of the gasket using >1mm stainless steel plate and accidentally forget to make the big hole - just make the two holes for the bolts. Apply a bit of gasket cement to both sides (Permatex Ultra Blue is best), whack it back in and forget about it.
 
Ok thanks Toni I was gunna make the egr blocking plate but I have been told it still needs a small hole about 2/3mm in the middle as it's still need a small amount off air to pass through have you heard off this? And I will also try the other ideas
Thank you again an I will get back to you and let you know how I go
Cheers
 
Would I be able to get the car scanned to check the problem as my vac hoses seem fine and I didn't see any signs off oil around the inter cooler pipes
 
No oil around the pipes is a good sign, means there's no boost leak. We had one (fixed, a clamp was a little loose) and ours didn't even make a sound, just slowly oozed oil.

For it to blow LOTS of black smoke there must be something either constricting the air or making the computer think there's more air than there actually is. It might not reveal a code at all.

Have you replaced the air filter or are you still using the original paper element? Have you tried cleaning the MAFS?
 
I cleaned the mafs I'm changing the fuel filter and air filter this weekend
I also have been told it could be the pump or common rail or injectors
 
Make sure the fuel filter is a genuine Nissan one. Aftermarket ones seem to cause lots of problems because the inner seal doesn't clamp correctly and air gets into the system.

Feel free to throw some injector cleaner in the tank, but if it's blowing heaps of black smoke, I'd imagine it's getting more than enough fuel, it's just confused about how much air it's getting and it's overfuelling. Did the car have a chip at some point?
 

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