Help Crank shaft sensor

[garywgibbs]

hello, new to this forum,
I have a Nissan navara, I have a very intermitant fault, basically over the last three years it keeps going into limp ode and the crank shaft sensor light comes on, I have changed it 3 times, serviced regular, it has been to Nissan and they charged me 150 to say its a crank shaft sensor doh, I told them that to start with, felt a right arse.!!!!
my garage has looked at it, but they are at a loss, it has this week happened 6 times, and its now almost un useable
last night it came on but did not cut out and drove fine, its very odd and I don't know where to start trying to solve this issues,
the speedo does not rev high but does sometimes seem as it not getting any fuel, and then goes to limp mode,
if anyone can help I would be very greatful as I need to rectify the fault as its my car for work

 

[Old.Tony]

You might have two different problems.

The driveability symptoms smack of a dirty suction control valve (SCV) on the fuel pump. Don't replace it ($240), just pull it out, clean it and put it back.

The CAS problem occurs because:

(1) there's a genuine problem with the CAS itself, which is unlikely given that you've changed it 3 times already

(2) there's an electrical problem with the connector, which is not as likely although is still very much worth checking, with a careful visual inspection for debris/oxidisation inside the actual electrical connector for the CAS

(3) an electrical connection problem with the ECU, which would be my FIRST bet given what you've been doing to the car. Make sure you have your radio PIN handy if you have the stock radio, write down your trip meter values if you use them for economy recording and then pull the plug on the ECU. Plug it back in. Repeat that a couple of times, each time you do it the connectors clean themselves a little.

(4) An earth connection fault on the ECU. The ECU grounds itself against the sidewall of the engine bay - sometimes this earth point suffers from oxidisation. Take it apart, give it a clean, then spray some of that blue shit that auto electricians spray on battery terminals (that I can never remember the name of, despite being told numerous times, I just call it blue shit) and see how that goes.

(5) If it's a D40, there MIGHT be something "dirty" in the IPDM/ER - it's the black box behind the battery. Just pull everything out one at a time, reinsert, repeat.

Glitches like this are commonly electrical. I hope Seventies47/Tappet/Tweak'e drops by this post, they'll have some insight as well.

 

[seventies47]

Hi, Did Nissan give you any indication of the code? Im assuming P0335, and you mean EML light? Before we go any further, need some more info on your vehicle, model? year? k's? The more info the better as different models/year ranges tend to have different inherent issues!

 

[garywgibbs]

thank you so much

You might have two different problems.

The driveability symptoms smack of a dirty suction control valve (SCV) on the fuel pump. Don't replace it ($240), just pull it out, clean it and put it back.

The CAS problem occurs because:

(1) there's a genuine problem with the CAS itself, which is unlikely given that you've changed it 3 times already

(2) there's an electrical problem with the connector, which is not as likely although is still very much worth checking, with a careful visual inspection for debris/oxidisation inside the actual electrical connector for the CAS

(3) an electrical connection problem with the ECU, which would be my FIRST bet given what you've been doing to the car. Make sure you have your radio PIN handy if you have the stock radio, write down your trip meter values if you use them for economy recording and then pull the plug on the ECU. Plug it back in. Repeat that a couple of times, each time you do it the connectors clean themselves a little.

(4) An earth connection fault on the ECU. The ECU grounds itself against the sidewall of the engine bay - sometimes this earth point suffers from oxidisation. Take it apart, give it a clean, then spray some of that blue shit that auto electricians spray on battery terminals (that I can never remember the name of, despite being told numerous times, I just call it blue shit) and see how that goes.

(5) If it's a D40, there MIGHT be something "dirty" in the IPDM/ER - it's the black box behind the battery. Just pull everything out one at a time, reinsert, repeat.

Glitches like this are commonly electrical. I hope Seventies47/Tappet/Tweak'e drops by this post, they'll have some insight as well.

thank you so much, I have printed this off and will take it to the garage and see if they can fix it, then if nothing I will take it to Nissan
hopefully one of these will fix the problem

 

[Rumpig]

Here's what someone else found.http://www.navara.asia/showpost.php?p=300259&postcount=18