Extra Driving Lights - Wiring

[Old.Tony]

You might be aware that I've got a few lights on my car nowadays:

which looks like this at night:

Now, I want all the extra lights to come on separately and I'm contemplating doing it like this. Normally I wouldn't switch an earth, which is what I'm doing here, but it does reduce the number of components and means that the lights absolutely cannot come on unless high beam is active (which also means they all turn off when I return to low beam).

Does anyone see any problem with this diagram? My only obstacle is finding a way to mount the switches in the console. I've got 3 spare slots below the air conditioner controls (near the door switch) and I've pulled the blanks out - looks like I have to glue the switches into those and reinstall, unless someone has a better idea? Here's the diagram:

 

[Malicious]

Looks fine to me, as for switching earths I prefer to do it especially where going through firewalls etc worst thing that happens is the lights turn on, abr sidewinder have some switches that fit exactly in the holes, can find them in fleabay

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390825075161

 

[4BYFOR]

Just get the rocker switches that fit those holes I got mine from autobarn.. Seems fine the wiring but you always want to be able to use the lights without having high beams on in my opinion

 

[user 1279]

I thought the carling style rocker switches (on Ebay for 9.99 delivered with many label options) were said to fit the blank switches in the D40?

 

[4BYFOR]

Here u go

 

[04HUG]

G'day.
Do you have an On/Off switch for 'Relay 1'

I have set up my roof mounted lights so they won't come on if the lower lights are turned off. They can both be controlled from a single switch. (On/Off/On with 6 posts at the back[Lower spots/all off/ Upper & Lower spots])

I got Narva switches from Autobarn that fit firmly in the slot. I actually used 7 post switches with lights in them, but that wont suit your Earth switching method without a lot of extra work.

 

[Old.Tony]

The driving lights were fitted by the dealer's auto electrician and that means it could quite easily use a woodpecker on a vibrator for a relay (jolt of power in the tailchute and it leans forward to make contact), but yes they have a separate switch that I'll move to that area too.

Thanks for the tips on the switches!

 

[siringo]

Hows the refelection on the bonnet from the lights up top Tony??

 

[Old.Tony]

Not too bad, because they're set back a ways - if you look at the daylight image, the lights are sitting under the rear of the frontal rack which is sitting behind the radio antenna, and the roof is doing a fair job of keeping the light off.

Bloody GME antenna lights up like a beacon though, I might paint it matt black.

 

[siringo]

Oh yep. Try some black tape???

 

[longy509]

hi tony sorry to interrupt your thread but what size/brand light bar do u have on the front and how do u like it (its my birthday in a couple weeks some im thinking of putting an order for one in with the wife)

 

[Old.Tony]

No worries Longy, that's what mine were for too!

The long one is here. Yep Sunyee. Doesn't ship with bullbar brackets but a pair of $10 75mm exhaust clamps and a 25x25 piece of mild steel welded to the top saw them mounted in very short order.

 

[mike1303]

Bloody GME antenna lights up like a beacon though, I might paint it matt black.

Head to jaycar mate and grab some heat shrink works a treat!

 

[bods]

As previously mentioned, switching earths isn't a problem. I did that when I put my light bar on because I didn't want to have to run 2 lots of wiring (or some 5 or 7 core trailer wire) through my already very full bonnet release boot in the firewall, hahaha. So, I just ran 1 run of twin core and used that as the earth switch for each relay (wanted to have spots and light bar or either on separately of the other). I got genuine Carling switches off eBay, there are lots of Chinese copies on there which in all honesty probably do the same job if you're not using the actual switch to turn the lights on or off, just dip the highs and they shut off, then preselect while the highs are off (this is how I do it) so you're not switching on or off under load. They also have lights in them which can be wired to come on with headlights as well as when the switch is turned on.

 

[Old.Tony]

^ not that the relays present much of a load to the switch anyway - so even light wiring is perfectly acceptable.

I'll hopefully get mine wired in tomorrow in that case. I have a pair of switches, but I think I'll get some nicer replacements at some point - perhaps something like this.

 

[bods]

This was the mob I got mine through off eBay http://stores.ebay.com.au/class-covers-aust?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 they are the genuine ones...