Engine goes off after 10 sec and many more issues

[allaroundoz]

Hi,
we are a traveling family and I have just introduced us as new members here.
Unfortunately our Navarra is giving us a hard time especially as we need to sell it in 3 months when we are flying back home to Austria.

I will have to start a few posts as various issues on engine, drive train and electronics occur regularly.

#1 ENGINE GOES OFF:
Every morning our car's engine goes off after roughly 10 seconds. I pull over, turn the key and press the accelerator pedal hard for about 5 seconds and than the engine runs again. It seems as I need to "pump" fuel with the pedal into the system. First we thought it's because of cold weather (Alice Springs, zero degrees in the morning) but we checked battery (good condition) and the glow plugs. Than I found out it only occurs when fuel tank is below half, but yesterday it did the same with full tank. We travelled NT (known for contaminated fuel) and maybe it has to do with the secondary fuel filter that we installed. What do you think?

#2 ENGINE GETS HOT, VERY HOT:
When towing our van (empty 1.8 to, loaded 2.4 to) our car obviously needs to work harder. But anything faster than 90km/h brings the engine cooling system above 110 degrees. Not really a rocket and especially uphills we need to drop speed to 70 km/h and drop gear to 3rd or even 2nd if steep uphill.

#3 ENGINE LIGHT ON DASHBOARD:
Since Fitzroy crossing the engine light is a constant companion on our dashboard. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not. Diagnosis scan didn't really help as on device showed 40(!) errors, another one just 1(!)

Any idea, especially on our issue #1?
Numer #2 and #3 we learned to accept ;-)

TIA!

***
driving a Nissan Navara D40 2010, ST (Spanish model), 4WD, Diesel
167.000 km, all services done, ex-mining car, not a rocket while towing our van

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd suggest you have a leak in the fuel system around the filter (most likely). In mine, the mechanic who changed the filter didn't line up the water sensor with the black knob on the front. I discovered it by trying to prime the fuel system with the primer bulb and then noticed the fuel leaking from the filter.

Have a feel under your fuel filter. There should be a fuel line running in and out and a soft rubber bulge that you can press. Press the bulge, you should only be able to do it 4-5 times before it becomes firm. Do it some more and you'll see the fuel leaking out if it's the filter - just turn the water sensor until it clicks and lines up under the black knob.

Otherwise it could be a hose that's not clamped onto the fuel filter properly, or could be a cracked hose. If it's sucking air, that air will get into the fuel pump as well and can cause drama there.

If your fingers come away from the primer bulb with diesel on them, the primer needs to be replaced.

Engine heat - yours sounds like it is getting a little hotter than normal. I try to keep mine below 105C and I will drop all the way to first if I need to, I don't care, I want my engine to survive.

However, 90km/h on the flat should be no trouble at all even in summer. Do you have lots of driving lights up front? Does the car have a winch fitted?

The engine light may be fixed if the electrical issues are fixed, so try those fixes and reset the errors - when the engine light comes on next, scan for errors and post up here what the code is.

 

[tweak'e]

when you read the codes, write them down then delete them. then see what new ones come up.
its quite possible someone done some work with things disconnected and then the ecu picks that up.
if it shows up with another 40 faults then post them up. there may be a common element to them.

 

[allaroundoz]

Thanks for all your replies, definitely some useful hints and tips. All I need now is a mechanic who gives me a hand looking at all the bits and pieces. I am a "arty" person (photographer and graphic designer), all I can do is open the bonnet ;-))

I'll have a quick look on the fuel filter to see if the rubber bulge contains air or fuel.

I do have spotties at the front of the car but no winch. No sump cover so the engine should get enough air to be cooled while driving.

Next time I see a mechanic I'll post all the faults.

 

[KevinE]

Re your overheating problem, which I think is a separate issue to the stalling after 10 seconds issue; if it's not overheating unless towing, I'd say that your radiator is partially blocked. I'd have it checked & if partially blocked, the cheapest option would be to get the radiator "rodded" & the whole cooling system flushed by a radiator specialist. Then with new coolant in it, you should be fine.
I agree with Tony about the stalling & tweak'e about the dash light & codes.

Good luck with it!

EDIT: I just read your other thread, which shines a different light on your overheating problem! Does the engine run normally while driving, then overheat if you re-start it after stopping for a short break? Does the temp gauge come down quickly if you stop & idle after the gauge has gone up? If so, it's likely your AT getting hot & transferring the heat to the engine via the cooling system. Combined with a partially blocked radiator, your popping back into D problem could very easily contribute to the overheating.

 

[allaroundoz]

Our car blew up on second day of traveling (hose crack on the cooling system) so the dealer fixed it, flushed the system, filled it with new coolant, cleaned the radiator, …
I guess it's connected to the transmission which has a lot to do and contributes heat to the system.
I bought myself one of these EDS Scans so that I get a precise idea what is going on with temperature. Not driving it above 110 Celsius which seems to be ok. That means driving not faster than 90 on flat grounds. When we stopp, it does cool down quite well.