VB69
Member
Anyone installed a Hayman Reece or similar brand electric brake controller for a trailer? If so is it difficult?
Electronic Brake Controller for trailer
- Thread starter VB69
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bods
Member
You really need to tell us what model you're fitting it to. They are pretty simple, generally a thermal reset circuit breaker gets fitted between the wire from the battery to the unit, this needs to be decent gauge wire (say 50a rated) then the same from the output of the unit to the trailer plug. The hardest bit is getting wires that size through the firewall.
You need an earth wire from the unit the same size and it wouldn't hurt to upgrade the earth wire from the trailer plug at the same time and run it all the way back to the battery while you're at it (you can get 50a rated dual core wire that will make this easier).
The only other input the unit needs is to be hooked up to the output side of the brake switch so when you press the pedal the lights come on and activate the controller.
The hardest bit is finding somewhere to mount it, unless you get one of those remote head ones that only need a small hole made in the dash somewhere.
You need an earth wire from the unit the same size and it wouldn't hurt to upgrade the earth wire from the trailer plug at the same time and run it all the way back to the battery while you're at it (you can get 50a rated dual core wire that will make this easier).
The only other input the unit needs is to be hooked up to the output side of the brake switch so when you press the pedal the lights come on and activate the controller.
The hardest bit is finding somewhere to mount it, unless you get one of those remote head ones that only need a small hole made in the dash somewhere.
GunMentalGrey
Member
I mounted a red arc unit with the remote controller. Controller is behind the kick panel in the footwell, controller in a switch blank next to the mirror controls. Wiring it in wasn’t difficult, but a bit time consuming getting the cables through the firewall then down the back while near and tidy and protected.
^ Wire gauge cannot be stressed strongly enough. Buying thin cables, or using a cable rated for its maximum load and not its continuous load, is dangerous.
Why: electric brakes are simple resistors, which means even if they're getting 12V and needing 3A (36W) they'll draw that (per wheel), but if by the time the voltage gets to the wheel it's only 9V, they'll draw 4A each. On a 4-wheel trailer that increases the load from 12A to 16A, which while it doesn't sound like much, will have a large impact on cable that is rated for 20A continuous.
Proof: A Subaru Forester owner had 4mm wire installed in his vehicle. Upon braking while towing, the wire started heating up, increasing its internal resistance, causing the current draw to rise even further. The wire melted through its insulator and made contact with the vehicle body and caught fire.
The gauge of brake wire is one area you do not want to consider saving money - use 6mm or better. And that thermal auto-reset fuse - absolutely vital.
Why: electric brakes are simple resistors, which means even if they're getting 12V and needing 3A (36W) they'll draw that (per wheel), but if by the time the voltage gets to the wheel it's only 9V, they'll draw 4A each. On a 4-wheel trailer that increases the load from 12A to 16A, which while it doesn't sound like much, will have a large impact on cable that is rated for 20A continuous.
Proof: A Subaru Forester owner had 4mm wire installed in his vehicle. Upon braking while towing, the wire started heating up, increasing its internal resistance, causing the current draw to rise even further. The wire melted through its insulator and made contact with the vehicle body and caught fire.
The gauge of brake wire is one area you do not want to consider saving money - use 6mm or better. And that thermal auto-reset fuse - absolutely vital.
