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Knickers

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Knickers
hi all, i'm new to the forum and just bought my first nissan. Its a d22 duel cab 4x4. I am a little dissapointed at the fuel consumption, which is about 13lts per 100ks. i am taking it in for the 1000k service and have raised the issue of fuel consumtion. i have a factory bullbar and i;m anticipating them bullshitting about this as being the cause. Also i have found the speedo out by 9%. does this mean that my fuel consumption figures are also out by 9%, which makes it even worse....apologies if this had already been covered in earlier threads, Cheers, Nick
 
G'day & welcome.

Yes, if the speedo is out so will be your fuel calcs. There's a bit on here about fuel consumption - do a search. How are you calculating the economy, what tyres you running and what other acc you running?
 
Yeah it does seem a little high mate but quite often the economy on a new car improves after a few thousand k's I believe. My 3 litre gets between 11-13L per 100km around town depending on who is driving and it has quite a bit of extra weight and larger tyres. Which way is your speedo out mine was spot on with factory tyres. I'd be questioning that but it might be a good thing for when you change tyre sizes.
 
i use the basic k's travelled comared to litres used to work out fuel consumption. ZZIts far from perfect, but gives me a good idea of the economy. i have read that the speedo can be out, but the odo is accurate....is this the case with the D22's?
 
Yes that's the case. Its only the needle that's out. If you plug an obd scanner into it you will find the speed the ecu sees is within 1km/h of a GPS speed when sitting on a steady speed. The odometer is obviously driven by the ecu so it is very accurate.

On the topic of fuel usage, they do use a bit more when newer as everything is still tight. Give it around 10000km and it will get a lot better
 
the tyres are 265/70R16. i also have the hubs locked as the service manual recommends this for the first 1000 clicks. Will this also effect economy?
 
yeah, i thought as much. It will be interesting to see if they unlock them when its serviced tomorrow.

Welcome knickers. Hubs locked in will throw the consumption up for sure. So will having the bull bar over the standard bar. Every bit of weight has an effect. I monitored my consumption from new and every time I added an accessory my fuel economy got worse. By the time I did rear bar bull bar canopy, I was down 100ks per tank. Once I fitted my 2.1/4 exhaust though I got most if it back. So if you need an excuse to get a exhaust, then that it. Hope to see you round the forum as you build it up.

Cheers.
 
Hi Gents, Bods was right. My speedo is out by 9%, but i took a distance reading over 30kms using my GPS and the odometer is only out by 1.5%. I have unlocked the hubs today and will monitor fuel consumption. i have also found that my economy has improved slightly on my 2nd tank of fuel and i got 10.7lts per 100k's. hopefully unlocking the hubs will drop it to less than 10. Also running in for a few more K's might bring it down further. Cheers
 
Welcome to the forum.

You've got a couple of things against you here:

1) Large tyres. The bigger the tyre, the harder it is for the engine to turn the wheels over = more fuel required to do the same work. These tyres seem to be standard since your odometer is so accurate, so I'm guessing that Nissan are compromising on fuel consumption during acceleration for engine RPM at cruise (reducing cruise speed fuel consumption).

2) Tight engine. New engines are always a little more thirsty - they tend to loosen up after a few thousand km.

3) New engine program (possibly just a rumour). Resetting the ECU will restore the car to the default program rather than the slightly-rich new car program, reducing your fuel consumption.

The speedometer needle is poor - and Nissan won't do a thing about it because it's within ADR specs. These specs allow for a large variation: the speedo must never indicate a speed slower than is being travelled, but is allowed to indicate 10% plus 4km/h above the actual road speed. Your GPS device is accurate (in peace time and where the sky is visible) to within 1% of actual speed - so rely on that.
 
Well lads, my first full tank was horrendous, hence this thread, but i got 10.7lts/100k's out of my 2nd tank with the hubs locked in and i just filled up again and worked out that i got 9.5lts/100k's on my 3rd tank.

For such a big lump of metal, i'm pretty rapt with that and still think there will be a bit more improvement as it beds in further.

I've read a bit about EGR blocking and from what i gather, the real difference is that the turbo kicks in much earlier, so there is less of a flat spot...i must say that as a virgin diesel owner, it is something that comes as a bit of a shock. I am used to driving economically by keeping the revs down and making early gear changes, but i am i right in saying that it isn't the best or most economical way to drive a 2.5 D22?

If i block the EGR, do i need to do anything else? And what is the general concensus of this mod??
 
Blocking the egr will help. There's nothing else you need to do except putting a plate in there to block it off. I found my economy has gone up again since fitting a snorkel too, I guess it doesn't have to work as hard to get air into the motor as it does trying to suck air in from inside the guard
 
Where can i get a blocking plate? I have a 2013 built D22, and i'm not sure that the ones I've seen on ebay suit this model. I noticed in an old thread that one of the lads on this forum was selling them a while back....is that still the case?
I am a little concerned about voiding my warranty though????
 
Call Paul from YD25.com and ask him for a EGR jet tube delete plate. You can't tell they are in there and they give better performance than just blocking the EGR in the normal way. I have one In mine and I can feel the difference in pull from the engine over just having the EGR pipe blocked alone. Way less restriction in the inlet manifold. See pics below for the difference.

image-1591039523.jpg

Standard and delete pipe



image-1820409113.jpg

Old one coming out.
 
g,day navmania, what is the difference between the 2? does anyone else have one of these as opposed to a normal blanking plate?
 
If you can see in the top photo that the one with the tube on it is the genuine one. The tube when inserted in the inlet manifold in its genuine position is where the returning gas from the EGR valve is injected so to speak into the inlet and then mixes with with the fresh charged air from the intercooler. By installing the YD25.Com plate it eliminates firstly the EGR gas entering the inlet manifold and also because the tube is gone the restriction to the inlet is also gone. Hope this helps explain it.

Cheers.
 

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