D40 won't start

[Martinbuzz]

Hey guys..New to the forum!
Wondering if anyone out there can help me with this huge problem!

I have a 2008 diesel D40 Navara with 115km on the clock.
Firstly it had a slight miss fire/cough splutter which I pin pointed it down to be either
Cylinder number 3 or 4. Did a compression test and found all cylinders to be
Around 380psi and all even which is in spec.

Engine would not start after comp test.
Replaced SCV at back of pump, fuel filter and fitted new battery... Boom it started! Ran it around the block and still had a slight miss at idle. Half way through road test it cut out and WILL NOT start again.
I've tried blocking off the egr, resetting the ecu, and checked codes which none are present. Left the battery disconnected for a day and still cranks over but won't fire.

Anyone have any similar problems or thoughts?

 

[Martinbuzz]

Also have cleaned airflow metre with contact cleaner and made sure fuel system was bled up properly when fuel filter changed!

 

[kevvyp]

Have a good look at the fuel hose's, I had a problem after changing the fuel filter on mine, check that the hose clamps (if you still have the wire one's) are not "out of round" if the clamps are over tightened they will go out of shape and let air into the system.

Kev

 

[Martinbuzz]

Cheers kev, yep no problems with fuel clamps... Is a strange fault.

 

[Old.Tony]

Couple of things to try (I like trying cheap stuff first before throwing money at it because at least then you have some idea of where to throw the money - or where not to!).

1) When you wake up in the morning, go squeeze the primer bulb a few times. If you get past 5 squeezes then you've got a leak. The leak could be in the primer bulb - a couple of people with cars around your Navara's age have reported cracking in the pump face of the primer.

2) If the primer goes hard in 3-4 squeezes then it could be a blockage, perhaps in the tank - there might be something covering the pickup. Not an easy one to sort out unfortunately, and may require the tank to be dropped and opened. It would pay to check the fuel line to see if it's been crushed by debris or tank movement.

3) If the fuel seems to be ok and fuel is getting through, check the glow plug operation. If you've compression-tested it you know how to remove a glow plug - does it work? Do they all work? If not, check the relay (hidden between the battery and the front quarter panel).

4) If all of that is working, check the earth to the ECU and check your battery's voltage in the morning. It MUST be over 12.6V. If it's less, there's a good chance your battery is causing the problem. Try replacing the battery with another from a friend's car (600CCA or better). There have been a few instances of this recently.

There's a couple of things to look at, not necessarily in order (do the fuel tank last eh!). Good luck!

 

[Martinbuzz]

Hey Tony thanks for the reply it's greatly appreciated!

I will try some of your tips in the morning..
Although I did just fit a brand new battery today as the previous one was the original and died. Bought the correct one 680cca.

It's such a strange fault.. I've managed to get it running on a can of "start ya bastard" but not on diesel. It's definetly a fuel related issue.

 

[Martinbuzz]

Finally got two codes to show up.. P0014 and P0016. Cam shaft and crank shaft codes??... Any thoughts?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[lookskyward1]

A stretched timing chain would give those codes and has been known to cause a lot of engine running issues.

Your truck is right at the mileage to need the timing chains changed

 

[Old.Tony]

Agreed - if the timing chain is stretched enough, the cam timing will be out enough to make starting and running difficult. It also means there's a very great risk of the chain snapping. It's not the cheapest thing to replace (and use a double-row chain from yd25.com.au not a genuine single-row one) but it's far cheaper than the repair bill after it's broken.

If it were stretched that badly you should be able to hear it slapping. Even while cranking it over, a stethoscope on the timing chain cover will reveal a slapping sound indicating a loose chain. If that's the case, stop, don't do it any more, and talk to Paul at yd25.com.au - his gear is far, far better than original.

 

[Martinbuzz]

Hey guys, started looking into again over the weekend. Doesn't sound like timing chains as when it did run it sounded nice with no slapping noises. Any chance that the dual massive flywheel could be the issue and the crank pick up signal could be the issue?

 

[Old.Tony]

The flywheel won't stop it from starting, but the CAS could. With the CAS misaligned, the injectors will open at the wrong time. You ought to be able to smell fresh diesel in your exhaust.

Good to hear that the timing chain sounds clear.

 

[kevvyp]

Have you had any luck?