D40 stalling issue

[Cruznscoot]

Hi guys, I have a 2010 D40 ST Navara 2.5 turbo diesel (automatic). I recently changed the fuel and air filters (as I have done a few times before) and immediately started having problems. Car cuts out immediately after starting in the mornings especially. If you keep the revs up you can get going but as soon as you back off it stalls. This also happens at traffic lights etc. although definitely runs better once going or warm.
Fuel filter seems to prime up after 3 pumps each time
Here's some of the things I have tried but the problem remains
⁃ fitted another (non genuine) fuel filter
⁃ Replaced filter prime assembly
⁃ Bled the fuel system numerous times
⁃ Replaced some of the hose clamps
⁃ Blew air back from inlet of filter to tank- all clear
⁃ Reset ECU multiple times
⁃ Cleaned the sensor located near the air filter

Not sure what to do next. Thinking I may need to try a genuine Nissan fuel filter? Have read that aftermarket filters may not seal and flow as well.
At first I thought I must have introduced air between the filter and engine. To try and minimise this I attempted to fill the line on the engine side of filter with diesel. For whatever reason I couldn't get it to fill. Is this normal?
My engine has done 260,000 kilometres so only other thing I'm wondering is if it could be the fuel pump?
Any help would be awesome guys
Thanks

 

[Old.Tony]

Similar miles on my car, fuel pump is fine, but my pump has only had air in it once. The cause was a loose water sensor on the bottom of the fuel filter. When installing, this water sensor needs to 'click' into position so that it lines up with the outlets. I wouldn't worry about aftermarket or not if you're priming up quickly, but try this: prime it and then OVERprime it - keep going. Do you get any leaking under the fuel filter? If you do, the water sensor is not sealing and there's your problem.

Usually these cars idle fairly well with a multitude of issues (SCV, turbo, TC control). A sticking EGR valve will allow an easy start but once the exhaust starts flowing along the EGR tube it will choke the air mix in the manifold and basically starve the idling engine of oxygen. You might consider blocking the EGR - your model shouldn't have an EGR flow sensor. Don't use Al or thin mild steel plate for the block. I used 1mm stainless, 1.6mm steel would be ok. Al might get a bit hot and melt and that's a disaster.

There might be a buildup of gunk inside the intercooler, cleaning it is cheap and removes it as a possible problem. Petrol is good for that, have done it myself (and need to again). It fills with oil from blow-by. Remove the intercooler, cup one hand over one of the openings and pour about 100ml of petrol in the other. Invert several times releasing your upper hand when the pressure builds. Pour it out noting the colour. Repeat. Mine stayed pitch black for 5 rinses then I started seeing the red of the fuel I was putting in.

Forget turbo etc. At idle it's not spinning anyway so it has nothing to do with it. If the engine is smooth once it's up and revving it's not going to be timing. I suppose injector cleaner might help in case there's a small amount of fuel starvation. My choice is Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment but in reality they're all concoctions based around naptha, some with a little xylene.

Apart from that, you could pop the air filter box out (it's actually easy) and give the innards a clean. You're not really cleaning it, you're actually checking it for something blocking the lower baffles.

How's the smoke from the exhaust? If it's blue-ish do the intercooler. If it's blackish do the injector clean and check air filter. If it's whitish you might need the injectors popped and sonically cleaned (or replaced) - but injector clean them first. My own injectors (near 280,000km and a lot of that towing) are in great nick.

 

[Cruznscoot]

Thanks for your help Tony. Since I posted this I have blanked off the EGR, replaced the fuel filter with one from Nissan, replaced the suction control valve and bled and reset the ECU. Problem remains exactly the same. Could it be injectors? Definitely seems to be fuel to me but I don't know. Primer never requires more than 3 pumps so assume it's not a leak in the system.
Any help would be great. Thanks

 

[Old.Tony]

Yes it could be the pump. Should you spend money on it? Not yet!

Let's look at smoke colour. Let's check the airbox and the intercooler. Any restriction in either (because at idle, the turbo isn't forcing the issue) will kill the engine fast. A sticking throttle body valve will also do it. Enough revs = enough flow to force it open, but at low revs maybe just not quite enough = engine starves of air?

It's also possible that it's a misaligned/damaged/failing CAS (crank angle sensor). Not a common failure point and I'd look at other stuff first. Same goes for that fuel pump. Look at the air first. It's certainly cheaper - and you'll kick yourself if you replace a $4K fuel pump only to find it needed $2 of petrol washed through the intercooler.

 

[Cruznscoot]

Just a quick update on this. Have thoroughly cleaned the inter cooler today and given the tank another dose of injector cleaner last week.
Still at a loss on this one. Might be time for a mechanic I think.
One thing that may be worth mentioning is that I have noticed an audible whistling noise when my car is running lately. Not sure if it would relate to this issue or not

 

[Cruznscoot]

I have checked the fault code and it reads as
10 slow, 3 fast, 3 fast, 6 fast
Am I correct in translating this as 0336?
Crank Angle Sensor?
Thanks

 

[Old.Tony]

So the CEL was on? 0336 is definitely the CAS. It's unusual for it to fail. Have had one or two complains of metal filings inhibiting it - discovered on removal. Have a look at yours?

 

[Cruznscoot]

Thanks for the advice- will have a look first chance I get. When I first had the issue I never had a fault code showing but I'm more than happy to eliminate another possibility.
I appreciate your help and will keep you posted

 

[Cruznscoot]

Stumbled on this article this morning. Did the test by disconnecting the cam sensor and bam- started and idled like a brand new car. Will put a new CAS in also. Won't hurt
http://www.yd25.com.au/index.php/services/diagnose-timing-chain-fault

 

[Cruznscoot]

Found this article this morning. Did the test by disconnecting cam sensor and bam- like a brand new car. Wonder if I can leave the cam sensor off until it goes to mechanic or not?http://www.yd25.com.au/index.php/services/diagnose-timing-chain-fault

 

[Old.Tony]

It might trigger a CEL if you keep it running, but by reading that page you'd think it was your primary timing chain that was failing.

I've never understood why Nissan went the way they did. The primary timing chain (lower chain) is a single row chain driven by the crankshaft, which drives the vacuum pump (below the fuel pump) and the fuel pump. The secondary timing chain is driven by the fuel pump sprocket, so the single row primary chain is driving everything!

Anyway, how does the front of your engine sound? Have you put a stethoscope to the timing chain housing? Any slapping sound from within? It's a fair job to visually inspect the chains.