D40 muffler delete
- Thread starter lex smith
- Start date
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Welcome to the forum, Pegleg. No real gain from that - there's a massive restriction in the exhaust flow at the turbocharger's turbine, and nothing much past that. Changing up to a 75mm system isn't going to make a large difference, nor is removing the CAT.
Something you might consider is an external auto transmission cooler. I have a rather large one mounted in front of everything else. We also monitor coolant temps with the Torque app and this talks to a bluetooth OBD-II device that I plugged into the OBD port. When my coolant temp hits 105C, it starts flashing the numbers on the display as a warning.
Something you might consider is an external auto transmission cooler. I have a rather large one mounted in front of everything else. We also monitor coolant temps with the Torque app and this talks to a bluetooth OBD-II device that I plugged into the OBD port. When my coolant temp hits 105C, it starts flashing the numbers on the display as a warning.
Thanks for your info. I seem to remember an honest exhaust shop telling me something like that years ago. I blew engine up when EGR pipe ruptured internally and lost all coolant in a matter of seconds. ( at under 100k) Had motor fully recon.and now use an external temp senser and alarm which are all the rage here in WA. EGR Blank was fitted at that time. However , motor is slow to warm up. Is that normal for EGR blanking ? I set the alarm to 100c .Is that about right ? The senser is fitted to metal on the head. Appreciate the forum.
EGR pipe rupture probably occurred in the cooler - that's the section on yours in the front of the motor with the two hoses heading up. Those hoses can be joined together if you want.
Your coolant temp (hopefully close to the temp of the head) can safely get to 105, even 110 (although I don't like mine going past 105, I'll back off if it starts approaching that).
If I just let my engine idle to warm up it does take some time to get warm. EGR, if anything, reduces combustion temps and slows down the rate that the engine would warm up - although there shouldn't be any EGR at idle. Diesels need to work a little to get their heat up and light duty won't hurt them when the engine is cool.
If I'm staying in a caravan park or even a rest area, I'll start my car to get it into position then turn it off, hook up completely, test lights etc, then just jump in and drive off - slowly, usually keeping revs below 2,000. By the time I'm at the road proper, the engine has developed a little warmth and can safely enter the road.
Your coolant temp (hopefully close to the temp of the head) can safely get to 105, even 110 (although I don't like mine going past 105, I'll back off if it starts approaching that).
If I just let my engine idle to warm up it does take some time to get warm. EGR, if anything, reduces combustion temps and slows down the rate that the engine would warm up - although there shouldn't be any EGR at idle. Diesels need to work a little to get their heat up and light duty won't hurt them when the engine is cool.
If I'm staying in a caravan park or even a rest area, I'll start my car to get it into position then turn it off, hook up completely, test lights etc, then just jump in and drive off - slowly, usually keeping revs below 2,000. By the time I'm at the road proper, the engine has developed a little warmth and can safely enter the road.
