D40 ecu reset

[samuls35]

Hi been reading the fuel economy thread and come across resetting the ecu method putting it to learning mode ect ect ect just wondering has anybody done this , does it make any difference , or can you harm the vechile in any way .

http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=39&page=27

 

[Leprechaun]

No harm what so ever.
But you should only need to do it after major servicing. Unless there is another problem, sensor or some error code being displayed.

 

[samuls35]

cool thx just had my 60 000k today might give it a whirl

 

[Old.Tony]

As Aussie Frontier pointed out in this post, if you have any glitches or issues, resetting the ECU (not putting it into Learning Mode) may be a better alternative.

1) Note your trip meter values if you use them to calculate mileage

2) Remove the negative terminal from the battery

3) Turn the vehicle ignition ON and count to 10

4) Turn the vehicle off and reconnect the battery

It's easier to do, and does a full reset. Might give it a go myself.

 

[Aussie Frontier]

Marty did it to his NRMA truck and said the change was very pronounced and the truck went back to how it was when he bought it .

 

[Biscuits]

Gunna give this a crack.

 

[siringo]

Old thread I know, but seems appropriate.

I did this last weekend.

Removed the negative lead from the battery. Turned the ignition on, foot on brake, waited, waited, I think it's the security light (little image of the car) just kept flashing on the dash, so I assumed there was still charge in whatever is holding the charge.

Flicked lights onto high beam, the security light was still flashing. Walked around the front, yep, lights are on full beam. Back inside, foot on brakes, then the speedo needle dropped down below zero, then back up to zero. About 5 seconds later, everything went out.

I wonder what that speedo movement indicates, or is it just something that happens??

Put the 40 into learning mode and drove it for 50-70 k's like a little old lady.

My immediate reaction is that it seems to not need as much right foot anymore.

 

[steve1961]

Old thread I know, but seems appropriate.

I did this last weekend.

Removed the negative lead from the battery. Turned the ignition on, foot on brake, waited, waited, I think it's the security light (little image of the car) just kept flashing on the dash, so I assumed there was still charge in whatever is holding the charge.

Flicked lights onto high beam, the security light was still flashing. Walked around the front, yep, lights are on full beam. Back inside, foot on brakes, then the speedo needle dropped down below zero, then back up to zero. About 5 seconds later, everything went out.

I wonder what that speedo movement indicates, or is it just something that happens??

Put the 40 into learning mode and drove it for 50-70 k's like a little old lady.

My immediate reaction is that it seems to not need as much right foot anymore.

Hope that eases things with your fuel consumption a bit

 

[Old.Tony]

I want to know where all that extra stored energy came from. Could it be leakage from an auxiliary battery?

 

[siringo]

Hope that eases things with your fuel consumption a bit

Yeah it'll be interesting to see. Next week, I get back to normal duties, I'll see how the fuel goes then.

I want to know where all that extra stored energy came from. Could it be leakage from an auxiliary battery?

Ahhhh. You're a genius. I was thinking, "this is crazy, pretty average fuel consumption out of this truck, but it seems to generate it's own electricity"

Yep, must've been battery No.2 I guess.

What about the speedo blip. Seen that before??

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd guess the speedo blip was just as the ECU shut down since that's the sucker that drives it.

I wonder if your isolator is supposed to do that?

 

[siringo]

Yeah, I wouldn't have thought so. But then again, what do I know. I can't remember the exact sequence of events regarding the connection/disconnection of the 2 batteries via the isolator, but what I remember is that what happens is a logical (common sense) sequence.

 

[KraftyPg]

The speedo movement itself is nothing abnormal for my car, all my gauges drop and rise back to 0 after 75-90 seconds from turning the key off. The stereo/CD parks itself after about 30-45 seconds and gauges move after about 75-90.

 

[siringo]

The speedo movement itself is nothing abnormal for my car, all my gauges drop and rise back to 0 after 75-90 seconds from turning the key off. The stereo/CD parks itself after about 30-45 seconds and gauges move after about 75-90.

Oh, I've never noticed that, I usually just slam the door shut and walk away. I'll take a look over the weekend.

 

[Teleman191]

Can this method be used for d22's?

 

[KraftyPg]

The disconnected battery method would technically work on just about any car because a portion ECU's memory is volatile and with no power it can't keep that memory, it's that portion you are resetting. But the fact that it only resets a portion of the memory to me makes it's arguable as to whether the driver can influence the ECU as much or even better than any reset could achieve.

The ignition/pedal method I believe has also been confirmed to achieve the same as the battery method in at least the YD D22's not sure about the ZD's.

 

[Ash2009stx]

Do this before or after trying the Learning mode?

As Aussie Frontier pointed out in this post, if you have any glitches or issues, resetting the ECU (not putting it into Learning Mode) may be a better alternative.

1) Note your trip meter values if you use them to calculate mileage

2) Remove the negative terminal from the battery

3) Turn the vehicle ignition ON and count to 10

4) Turn the vehicle off and reconnect the battery

It's easier to do, and does a full reset. Might give it a go myself.

Hey Mate,
The info you guys put on here is invaluable. My 2009 D40 Auto has the worst fuel economy. What do you recommend, do the above method or the ignition + foot pedal option?

Thanks.

 

[Cobez]

Sorry to revive and old thread. I upgraded my turbo pipe, air filter, did the EGR block and a 2.5" turbo back exhaust and i noticed a slight shuddering every 10 or so on idle. Did the ECU reset, now it idles beautifully smooth.

Took about 3 minutes including disconnecting and reconnecting the negative terminal.

 

[Gbt]

As Aussie Frontier pointed out in this post, if you have any glitches or issues, resetting the ECU (not putting it into Learning Mode) may be a better alternative.

1) Note your trip meter values if you use them to calculate mileage

2) Remove the negative terminal from the battery

3) Turn the vehicle ignition ON and count to 10

4) Turn the vehicle off and reconnect the battery

It's easier to do, and does a full reset. Might give it a go myself.

What is the difference between a straight reset and putting it into learning mode?

I have put on an ERG blanking plate in the last couple of months and had the injectors cleaned out.... would I reset, or put it in learn mode?

 

[Old.Tony]

Either method works. "Learning mode" is nothing more than making the ECU forget the map, so it goes back to its default settings and starts learning all over again. Resetting the ECU does the exact same thing.

If you leave it, it will try to learn from the info it has, which slows the process down, particularly if it's learned bad habits.