D40 advice

[pilbara_tog]

I'm looking at getting myself a D40 dual cab in the near future, and I was hoping to get some hints as to what I should be looking out for.

I'll be using the vehicle as a family car and camping truck, but in the shorter term I am looking for a good truck to tow a medium sized trailer (~1.5t) across the Nullarbor towards the middle of the year.

I'm after a 2.5L diesel. I am aware of the clutch/flywheel issues and I've seen reports of timing chain failures. How common are these problems? Are there any other common issues that I should look out for?

Also, how are the engines holding up over time? The price range I'm looking at seems to be putting me in the 130,000km to 200,000km range. Is this getting to the end of the reasonable lifespan, or are they holding up better than that. I realise the 600,000km without the head coming off that I got from my old TD42 Patrol might be a bit optimistic, but I don't want to buy something that is going to need a rebuild in a year's time.

Aside from upgrading the clutch and swapping out the dual-mass flywheel for a solid one, are there any other reliability upgrades that are a good idea with these things?

Any wisdom you may be willing to impart will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[TigerST]

Well if thats your price range then you should be good. There is a d40 on here somewhere pushing 500,000. if they are going to time chain problem they would have by 150-200. I know of a very kitted, nothing to do 2012 ST for sale near me even has brake controller but he's wanting 44k for it.

 

[Old.Tony]

Welcome to the forum.

By now you'd expect most of the failures to have raised their heads. Timing chains don't seem to have been an issue in the 140kW engines, I don't recall any reports of this failure in the 2012-onwards models (that may be an aging brain failing to produce information on demand!).

At a guess I'm thinking you're looking in the $25K-$35K bracket. Cars will be 2006-2009 vintage, roughly. These cars were in the firing line of clutch, timing chain and torque converter failures. They all suffer from deteriorating turbocharger actuator vacuum hoses. The 2006/2007 models had rear axle issues fixed by recall. Many of these cars were recalled for bonnet retention issues and at the time I had considered the premise of the failure - 90km/h on dirt - to be a joke, but since I've now towed my van at 100km/h on dirt, I am being a little more reticent.

I don't know if we'll get 600K out of ours. It's passed 130,000km and it is running strongly, very smooth, all the power I remember (despite now weighing in EMPTY at 2720kg) and no I do NOT want to sell it. Mine's an auto anyway, if you've been investigating clutch issues then my guess your preference is for a manual. Autos do tow better - there have been a couple of cases where the auto transmission oil cooler has leaked into the radiator and vice versa (the cooler is INSIDE the radiator). I'm waiting for my warranty to expire (about 16,000km more, should be done by middle of this year at the latest) and I'm fitting an external tranny cooler (not a personal fan for a guy in a dress, but a heavy duty high-flow oil cooler) to make sure this never happens.

Also watch the radiator. small, narrow cores seem to cause overheating - mine gets a little hot going uphill especially with a load, she'll be looked at in the next couple of weeks.

Other than that, they're a good car. If you want to take it off-road, 50mm of lift (provided by suspension change will do - we use OME with Dakar dual-rate leaf springs), some underbody protection and proper recovery points will get you started. If you like to squeeze the throttle and get the wheels turning, a locker on the front is almost mandatory because the front diff is a little on the weak side (but near bulletproof if you're locked front and rear).

 

[pilbara_tog]

Well if thats your price range then you should be good. There is a d40 on here somewhere pushing 500,000. if they are going to time chain problem they would have by 150-200. I know of a very kitted, nothing to do 2012 ST for sale near me even has brake controller but he's wanting 44k for it.

Thank you. As much as I'd love to spend $44k on a ute, it would also cost me a divorce...

Welcome to the forum.

Thank you.

At a guess I'm thinking you're looking in the $25K-$35K bracket. Cars will be 2006-2009 vintage, roughly. These cars were in the firing line of clutch, timing chain and torque converter failures. They all suffer from deteriorating turbocharger actuator vacuum hoses. The 2006/2007 models had rear axle issues fixed by recall. Many of these cars were recalled for bonnet retention issues and at the time I had considered the premise of the failure - 90km/h on dirt - to be a joke, but since I've now towed my van at 100km/h on dirt, I am being a little more reticent.

My price range is somewhat lower. I'm looking at spending around $16-20k.

I haven't heard of the torque converter issues. I understand that there is a dual row timing chain kit to suit that solves the problem. Is this something that is worth investigating?

I don't know if we'll get 600K out of ours. It's passed 130,000km and it is running strongly, very smooth, all the power I remember (despite now weighing in EMPTY at 2720kg) and no I do NOT want to sell it. Mine's an auto anyway, if you've been investigating clutch issues then my guess your preference is for a manual. Autos do tow better - there have been a couple of cases where the auto transmission oil cooler has leaked into the radiator and vice versa (the cooler is INSIDE the radiator). I'm waiting for my warranty to expire (about 16,000km more, should be done by middle of this year at the latest) and I'm fitting an external tranny cooler (not a personal fan for a guy in a dress, but a heavy duty high-flow oil cooler) to make sure this never happens.

Also watch the radiator. small, narrow cores seem to cause overheating - mine gets a little hot going uphill especially with a load, she'll be looked at in the next couple of weeks.

It's not so much that I prefer manuals - I have long since reached the vintage where the manliness of changing my own gears has lost its lustre to the idea that the easier way is the best way. I have been looking more at manuals only for two reasons - there seem to be far more on the market in my price range, and I thought I read somewhere that the auto had a detuned engine.

Still, if the right car came up, the transmission wouldn't be a huge deal to me either way.

Other than that, they're a good car. If you want to take it off-road, 50mm of lift (provided by suspension change will do - we use OME with Dakar dual-rate leaf springs), some underbody protection and proper recovery points will get you started. If you like to squeeze the throttle and get the wheels turning, a locker on the front is almost mandatory because the front diff is a little on the weak side (but near bulletproof if you're locked front and rear).

An e-locker in the front would be my first mod after the trip across. I'm a huge believer in front lockers for IFS 4WDs. My last 4WD was a Delica, and there was nothing funnier than watching the Patrol/Landcruiser crew with their mouths open after seeing what a locked independent front could actually achieve.

One more question, if I may: I have two kids that are both still in booster seats. From my research, it appears that the ST-X models have child restraint points built in, while the RX and ST models do not. Is this correct, and is it much of an issue to get restraints retrofitted? Are there any other model-specific peculiarities that I should keep an eye out for?

Again, thank you both for your help. It is greatly appreciated.

 

[TigerST]

One more question, if I may: I have two kids that are both still in booster seats. From my research, it appears that the ST-X models have child restraint points built in, while the RX and ST models do not. Is this correct, and is it much of an issue to get restraints retrofitted? Are there any other model-specific peculiarities that I should keep an eye out for?

Again, thank you both for your help. It is greatly appreciated.

Ok yes you can find places to get them fitted better to get an stx tho. Kid safe would have a list of places to get them fitted. Another thing Nissan recons you can't fit 3 booster seats across the rear. I call bull shit as I know you can and have done it. So you should be right with 2.

 

[TigerST]

This is the one I was talking about, but to pricey I guess.
http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Navara-2012/SSE-AD-2504112/?Cr=13&sdmvc=1

But reallyn look at this one for 34

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Nissan-Navara-2012/AGC-AD-14483615/?Cr=2&sdmvc=1

the 2012 + ST have the restraint points built in.

 

[TigerST]

30gs

But would need to get points fitted
http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Nissan-Navara-2010/AGC-AD-14929891/?Cr=6&sdmvc=1

 

[Old.Tony]

The autos aren't detuned. They have a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) which means zero soot (in mine, anyway, even under a heavy load). Just as much power as the manual. You lose a little in the fluid drive (torque converter) but that's the way autos work.

There are probably NO autos left with torque converter problems - we haven't had one appear in here for quite some time (and this place is a magnet for problems). Basically the TC locks on to the drive shaft above 75km/h - better for economy. In faulty TCs, the lock would disengage just as it engaged, causing a vibration as the unit locked and unlocked from the drive shaft.

The timing chain issue may not even raise its head, but if it does, talk to Paul from yd25.com.au - he does a much stronger chain as a replacement and he's a member here too.

 

[TigerST]

to add to the old tony. the newer spain autos dont have DPF

 

[Old.Tony]

^ Aye, the 140kW motors didn't need them and still met emission standards.

 

[TigerST]

Not sure how the amount of smoke the puff under load

 

[Old.Tony]

I've followed a 140kW and they put out a small amount under load but nothing like the older cars.

 

[10navst]

When I was looking for a d40 I was set on an stx manual pre 2010 because of the model features. They have split fold rear seats that also fold up for extra storage in the back, utilli-track in the bottom as well as top sides and a factory child restraints x3. I ended up with an 2010 ST but chose it for price and the km's. I put in child restraints and I love it. Whatever you choose to buy as long as it has a service history you should have a good rig. Try to find something that has extras as it saves you time and money doing it yourself later.
Hope you find your dream car and show us some pics.

 

[SimoNav]

Figured I would jump on this thread as it has almost the same info I need.
I am looking at a 2007 D40 ST-X, manual, petrol with 95k on the clock. It has a K&N air filter and exhaust mods. Body and interior seem to be in good nick. He's asking $17500.
Just got off the phone to the mechanic who is doing the inspection and he said there was a loud whine coming from the front of the engine, he was using a stethoscope. He removed one of the belts, thus disabling all the belt related parts, and that did not eliminate the sound.
He suggested it was either a cam bearing, VVT or idler pulley timing chain. Sorry if I got them wrong, I just wrote down what I heard.
Any ideas about what I could be in for if I buy this one? What else should I be looking at in this model?
Thanks in advance and I hope I can start posting as a proper Navara owner soon!

 

[4BYFOR]

Figured I would jump on this thread as it has almost the same info I need.
I am looking at a 2007 D40 ST-X, manual, petrol with 95k on the clock. It has a K&N air filter and exhaust mods. Body and interior seem to be in good nick. He's asking $17500.
Just got off the phone to the mechanic who is doing the inspection and he said there was a loud whine coming from the front of the engine, he was using a stethoscope. He removed one of the belts, thus disabling all the belt related parts, and that did not eliminate the sound.
He suggested it was either a cam bearing, VVT or idler pulley timing chain. Sorry if I got them wrong, I just wrote down what I heard.
Any ideas about what I could be in for if I buy this one? What else should I be looking at in this model?
Thanks in advance and I hope I can start posting as a proper Navara owner soon!

Welcome and yes its the timing chain

 

[SimoNav]

Welcome and yes its the timing chain

Old.Tony in this thread said that the timing chain issue was a diesel issue though.
Regardless, the seller has said he is taking the Navara to his local Nissan dealer to have it inspected/repaired.