Hey guys I have a 2004 d22 ,I went 4wd a while ago and done a hill climb and broke one of my tie rods which where the standard nissan ones ,I replaced them with snake racing tie rods I went and done another hill climb not long after and broke them again. Can some explain to me why they keep breaking, I checked my service manual and previous owner had the same problems .
D22 tie rods
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How much lift do you have? and what size wheel and tyre are you running?
I have seen them brake for a few reasons, the first time was due to the car landing on a rock on a hill climb and bent it so bad that as soon as it hit the wall of a rut 2m up the track it snapped.
The next time was on ruts again but the D22 was lifted to high by simply winding up the torsion bars and the thing was bouncing all over the joint and bounced into the wall of a rut with the wheels turned.
but all of the ones i have seen have been stock rods.
"onemofo" has had both snap on him and he replaced his with heavy duty snake racing ones and i think its been ok since.
I have seen them brake for a few reasons, the first time was due to the car landing on a rock on a hill climb and bent it so bad that as soon as it hit the wall of a rut 2m up the track it snapped.
The next time was on ruts again but the D22 was lifted to high by simply winding up the torsion bars and the thing was bouncing all over the joint and bounced into the wall of a rut with the wheels turned.
but all of the ones i have seen have been stock rods.
"onemofo" has had both snap on him and he replaced his with heavy duty snake racing ones and i think its been ok since.
RustyNav09
Member
Haven't broken a tie rod yet. Slow and steady as Sparra said. One running a front locker aswell
04SilverSTR
Member
yep slow and steady, and i think sometimes the tie rod hod the bump stop plate too which causes issuse as well.
bryan
bryan
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i just bought a spare set of tie rods and adjusters for $80
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180558403073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
new oem's are $190 a side, and $55 from the wreckers.
i'm not sure HD adjusters are the best idea. its not big deal if an adjuster breaks if u have a spare. put in stronger adjusters and more force goes through the idler/pitman arms etc.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180558403073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
new oem's are $190 a side, and $55 from the wreckers.
i'm not sure HD adjusters are the best idea. its not big deal if an adjuster breaks if u have a spare. put in stronger adjusters and more force goes through the idler/pitman arms etc.
Exactly what's been mentioned, with the HD adjusters you will find they are probably coming in contact with the LCA under flex as that are quite thick, I have this issue and have bent a HD from Snake because of it. what I'll be doing before muster is grinding the extra lip of the LCA back, there is quite a lot of over hang that's not really needed there, so I'll knock it back a few mm and weld it up again with my mates Mig. Hope this helps I should have no issues after doing that and now my Auto Lokka is installed.
thats the way i would go, just keep them in the car and if you have a breakage changing one is a snack but with no spare ones you need to get creative and both times ive been involved in doing a repair for someone on a trail its been a massive pain in the arse.
samcubus
Member
Massive pain in the arse damn straight!
Jason was going to try knock a few adjusters up at work haven't asked how it went yet but yeah since my last day out and I now have a few spares that I carry with me. Cheap insurance.
Not sure abt grinding back the LCA's guess as long as u are careful and don't put a hairline crack in it or weaken it. I'd be interested in how it goes, onemofo.
Jason was going to try knock a few adjusters up at work haven't asked how it went yet but yeah since my last day out and I now have a few spares that I carry with me. Cheap insurance.
Not sure abt grinding back the LCA's guess as long as u are careful and don't put a hairline crack in it or weaken it. I'd be interested in how it goes, onemofo.
75 GRC
Member
ONEMOFO,
Could you take some pictures of the process when you do it,that way everyone can see exactly what you're talking about.
Cheers Geoff Go the V-6's
ShortyNavros
Member
How do you find the quality of these Ben?
I was thinking about buying them and throwing them on, and then keeping my old stock ones as spares.
ONEMOFO,
Could you take some pictures of the process when you do it,that way everyone can see exactly what you're talking about.
Yeah mate should be no problems. Not sure if ill grind it back before till after must see as I can't get a weld done till after. So I may wait. But I grab a few before after and during pics.
75 GRC
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just turned up today.
they look the goods.
adjusters are a bit beefier that the oem's, hex shaped too, easy to get a spanner on.
i'm just going to hold onto them as spares for now.
if i need to replace tie rod ends later ill throw these in and then keep the old ones as spares.
While I have the whole rack pulled off I took a before and after photo of what iv grinded off already, I didn't want to go too far back yet as I can't weld it till after muster, so I'll take a bit more off it after so I can weld it. As you can see there is a fair bit of overhang and generally useless metal.
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75 GRC
Member
Cheers for the update ONEMOFO
I can see now there is a lot of metal that really isn't doing anything.
Cheers Geoff Go the V-6's
I can see now there is a lot of metal that really isn't doing anything.
Cheers Geoff Go the V-6'ssamcubus
Member
Nice work I will Definatley have a crack at this myself. Worth the effort I reckon especially if it means less chance I snap another rod.
Thanks 1mofo
Thanks 1mofo
