clutch and the revs

[jockyboy]

hi

beetween 0 to 1st gear there seems to be a delay does not go straight of the market it hit's 1st at about 1.5 rpm.
will a sprintbooster chip do that or can you adjust the cltch and accelerator closer together if you know what i mean?

jock

 

[qqc d22]

http://i.qkme.me/5cwl.jpg

what you talkin bout willis

 

[scooba_285]

lol hahahahahah!!!!! that pic is AWESOME!!!!!, i was thinking the same thing, i dont understand what u mean

 

[jockyboy]

what about the answer to the question. who's willis

 

[kevinm1962]

hi

beetween 0 to 1st gear there seems to be a delay does not go straight of the market it hit's 1st at about 1.5 rpm.
will a sprintbooster chip do that or can you adjust the cltch and accelerator closer together if you know what i mean?

jock

would you be able to explain whats happening a different way, is it that you cant get 1st unless you rev the motor.

 

[ourd40]

are you talking about a manual? or a stall converter? or?

 

[rabbit-chop]

Measure the distance between the welsh actuator and the master solenoid, if its the same as the compressed volume at the spare wheel carrier, then drill three holes at the flip-rod converter.

 

[Old.Tony]

hi

beetween 0 to 1st gear there seems to be a delay does not go straight of the market it hit's 1st at about 1.5 rpm.
will a sprintbooster chip do that or can you adjust the cltch and accelerator closer together if you know what i mean?

jock

I think you're asking about turbo lag, how there's basically not much power at all below 1500rpm and then it comes on strong.

There are several things you can do to help reduce this, but turbochargers are driven by the exhaust - the only way to get a lot of turbo is to get a lot of exhaust. It isn't a case of chicken and the egg - in this case, the exhaust HAS to start pumping before the turbo starts spinning.

You can replace MOST of the rubber/plastic hosing with metal. Don't replace ALL of it - the motor needs to twist on its mounts and if you use a completely fixed metal pipe all you'll do is break it. Doing this will nearly eliminate the ballooning effect and remove any lag caused by this.

You can also block your EGR valve. This actually helps the turbo spool up a little earlier as there's no exhaust pressure lost to the EGR system.

Then there's chipping. Chips don't actually remove the turbo lag, but they can increase the fuel below boost (as you apply the accelerator) which causes the turbo to start spinning harder, reaching decent boost levels sooner. Good chips to consider are the ChipIt chip and Unichip, both of whom have staff that contribute to this forum. In particular, Lindsay from Northside 4x4 (seller of Unichip) has made a fantastic post about the different chips here and it is an incredibly good resource to look at if you're going to consider a chip.

You can modify the exhaust as well, but in real terms there's very little difference gained in the turbo, because the turbo comes first and changing the exhaust only has a minor effect on the gas flow through the turbine.

Other than that there's only the intake side. Make sure there are no great restrictions to airflow - if you have a D22, consider replacing the airbox with a Landcruiser 80 series air filter to help the engine breathe better.

If you have a D40, there's little else to consider except a catch can and clean out the intercooler.