Brake issue.

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Oz14zz

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Hey guys, I have a 05 d22.

It has a 3" lift and 2" body. When i use the brakes whilst driving, it has a fair bit of sponge to the pedal and pulls up nothing like i imagine it should.

Sometimes when i get in the car before it is started the pedal is rock solid.

I recently had brand new shoe's put in the rear drums, and the drums machined. At the same time they replaced 1 of the pistons in the drum brakes.

They said they bled the brakes when they did all this but knowing how much they got wrong when they worked on my car I cannot trust what they say.

I am just curious if this is a issue with having such a high lift should i look at getting braided brake line's?

Or should I be looking at other area's first?
 
i thought that, but i had a look, they seem to run straight, no on-off motion when lightly braking. No scraping noise while driving. i checked the front pads, they seem fine, and no scratches in the front discs
 
If they are slightly warped, as they rotate it increases the amount of distance between pads and rotors, which effects braking, I doubt you would see the warping by eye,
 
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How many Ks ago was it done, after a machine and shoes they can bed in and require an adjust a short time later, has it happened after the lift or work done? May be brake bias related.
 
brakes were "fixed" about 2000kms ago. and the lift was done before i bought the car. so cannot say. i was thinking it might be the master cyl or brake bias but im trying to see easy options first :(
 
Most mechanics around here are too lazy to bleed brakes properly, close enough is apparently good enough.

Rebleed the brakes. If brake fluid changed at the correct intervals and there's no damage, a master cylinder should easily do 500,000km's.
 
I would flush all the fluid out of the system and replace with new.
Brake fluid actually attracts moisture over time which as you may be aware will cause brake fade and spongy brake peddle.
If that doesnt help then go to the next level, BUT for a cheap option thats where i would start for sure.
 
Actually I will say, I had the slave cylinders on my D22 replaced at about 160,000km's. (Rear drum's)

Who knows if it was right they were leaking, the brake joint were the most incompitent (Not as bad as the !@#$ up's in the federal Labor paty though) mechanic's I have ever come across.

They had 4 goes at trying to bleed the brakes, my normal mechanic had it bled properly in 20 minutes.

Pulled up on a dime.

Even the local Nissan dealership had 3 goes on average at bleeding the brakes.

All the good mechanics are on the big bucks at the local mines.
 
+1 on what Dave said, rebleed the lines sounds like you still have air in them hence the spongy pedal and then you can adjust the brake pedal too make it a little tighter at your drivers footwall.. That's how I fixed mine when they went spongy after changing both rear drum cylinders.. Hope this helps
 
I will give it a go. Any chance i can get some hints at bleeding them? i get the basic principle just want to make sure i do it right is all.
 
Basically find the bleed valves on the callipers ect and pop a small length of hose over the end, then get someone to pump the brake peddle until it gets hard and hold it down, while they are doing that you will then crack the bleed valve/nipple until the peddle hits the floor at which time IF there is any air in the system it will start coming out, then with the peddle still on the floor tighten up the bleed valve and repeat the whole process and keep repeating until you see no more bubbles.

like i said before while you are doing it keep doing it until you have replaced all the fluid this will kill two birds with the one stone so to speak.
Brake fluid does need replacing at least every year, or 2 years at the very very least, it doesnt got old from use it gets old from attracting moisture, when that happens you will never get good brake power and will get brake fade.
 
I will give it a go. Any chance i can get some hints at bleeding them? i get the basic principle just want to make sure i do it right is all.

Sure man, Bascially it's a 2 man job. You will need a new bottle of fluid and top it right up to begin with. Then use a bleed bottle and line from autobharn or super cheap and place it on the brake line nipple. Find the right spanner before you start I think it's 8mm but don't quote me on that one. Ok so get your mate to press the pedal down all the way without lifting it and then you loosen the nut letting fluid out then you quickly tighten it up again before he releases the pedal. Get him to pump it a few times and do it again, as your letting the fluid out look at the clear hose for air bubbles if your getting air keep doing the same thing until its only fluid. After doing each line top the fluid up to be safe and so on.. That's the basics bud and how I did mine.. Have fun!
 
The other problem with moisture in the lines is when it gets hot water turns to vapour and vapour is air so you will always be getting air in the lines if the fluid is old. With the age of your ute it wont hurt at all and a bottle of fluid is Cheap.
 
Sorry to keep adding **** but i also use a syringe before i start actually bleeding to suck up all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir, then top it up with fresh stuff which will save you a heap of time and will also let you see a distinctive colour change.
 
Ok, thanks heaps guys. I will give it a go this weekend and see if I can fix the issue.
 
Just to add, it is recommended to start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder first, so that would be rear passenger side.
 
Does the rear of my d22 not have only 1 rear brake line? so that would be rear line. Passenger front, drivers front?
 

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