Blown turbo should I pull head of
- Thread starter Holty35
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First, do you have an intercooler? If so, forget it, just fix the turbo and drive on (well, clean the intercooler first). If you don't have one, you've just found out a perfect excuse to HAVE one. But first the engine needs fixing ...
Turbo impellers that detonate CAN (they might not, you have to check) fragment themselves rather badly and send lots of little pieces in towards the motor, lodging themselves in valve seats, piston crowns, cylinder heads ... there is only really ONE way to tell if any bits are in there and you haven't retrieved every last bit from the air intake and that's to inspect it. There simply isn't another way.
You might try removing all of the glow plugs and the intake manifold, then turn the engine over by hand until you can slip an inspection camera in past the intake valves in each cylinder (don't try to overcome any solid resistance - that could be an impeller part embedded in the head). That may give you a look inside - I'm not sure how far the valves will open or how much you'll actually see, but it's a start. I would suggest that if you see chunks in the intake manifold, then chunks have probably made it into the motor and unless you do it yourself you will end up blowing chunks yourself over the escalating costs.
Remove the head, it's actually not that hard just have a torque wrench handy and take your time. You SHOULD replace the head gasket at the same time so go buy one before you start unbolting the head. Make sure you mark EVERYTHING. Main crankshaft position with white paint against the crankcase. Do the same with the camshafts. Lay out the components somewhere that people and animals aren't going to walk and use post-it notes to label them (put the part ON the note) if you need to.
You don't say what model car you have, but I suspect it's either a D21 or an early D22 and we have members here who are exceptionally well-versed in these engines, PLEASE don't be afraid to jump on and ask even a simple question. The only truly stupid question is the one that you DIDN'T ask when you should have.
Turbo impellers that detonate CAN (they might not, you have to check) fragment themselves rather badly and send lots of little pieces in towards the motor, lodging themselves in valve seats, piston crowns, cylinder heads ... there is only really ONE way to tell if any bits are in there and you haven't retrieved every last bit from the air intake and that's to inspect it. There simply isn't another way.
You might try removing all of the glow plugs and the intake manifold, then turn the engine over by hand until you can slip an inspection camera in past the intake valves in each cylinder (don't try to overcome any solid resistance - that could be an impeller part embedded in the head). That may give you a look inside - I'm not sure how far the valves will open or how much you'll actually see, but it's a start. I would suggest that if you see chunks in the intake manifold, then chunks have probably made it into the motor and unless you do it yourself you will end up blowing chunks yourself over the escalating costs.
Remove the head, it's actually not that hard just have a torque wrench handy and take your time. You SHOULD replace the head gasket at the same time so go buy one before you start unbolting the head. Make sure you mark EVERYTHING. Main crankshaft position with white paint against the crankcase. Do the same with the camshafts. Lay out the components somewhere that people and animals aren't going to walk and use post-it notes to label them (put the part ON the note) if you need to.
You don't say what model car you have, but I suspect it's either a D21 or an early D22 and we have members here who are exceptionally well-versed in these engines, PLEASE don't be afraid to jump on and ask even a simple question. The only truly stupid question is the one that you DIDN'T ask when you should have.
It is a d22 and u r right the no intercooler the think kept running and seems to run ok but mite b missing to has any 1 got an ideation what it should cost me to pull the top end off to check and where is the best place to get a turbo from and price thanks in advance
If you DIY the head removal it'll cost you the gasket, consider the torque wrench you need as an investment for future playing!
Turbochargers can be bought from e-Bay but Forefront Industries (a member of this forum) may be able to provide you with a better-performing turbo than the original - provide your exact model specs and see what they can do for you there.
Depending on your model, you might be able to put the intercooler off an XR6 Turbo like they did here. It's much less expensive and will protect the engine.
There's a valuable thing to learn about turbochargers as well. They thrive on heat, and heat kills them - if you've been driving hard, you MUST let the engine idle for a little until the turbo (exhaust manifold) cools down to "normal" temperatures. Once the engine stops, the oil flow through the bearings stops - so the oil that's in there cops ALL of the heat, and if there's enough heat, the oil becomes cooked, hardens on the bearing surface and destroys the turbocharger.
Turbochargers can be bought from e-Bay but Forefront Industries (a member of this forum) may be able to provide you with a better-performing turbo than the original - provide your exact model specs and see what they can do for you there.
Depending on your model, you might be able to put the intercooler off an XR6 Turbo like they did here. It's much less expensive and will protect the engine.
There's a valuable thing to learn about turbochargers as well. They thrive on heat, and heat kills them - if you've been driving hard, you MUST let the engine idle for a little until the turbo (exhaust manifold) cools down to "normal" temperatures. Once the engine stops, the oil flow through the bearings stops - so the oil that's in there cops ALL of the heat, and if there's enough heat, the oil becomes cooked, hardens on the bearing surface and destroys the turbocharger.
if you take the head off, you have to replace the head bolts and the gasket. From memory the gasket is about $200 and the head bolts about $300.
if you have someone else do the work, will prob be around the 2k mark I would say, that's just for an inspection, assuming nothing is wrong. Depending on what is required could be up to 3-4k worth.
Best place for genuine parts is nizzbits (google)
aftermarket try Engine Australia
For the turbo there are plenty of cheap ebay options otherwise genuine for the $1500 mark
if you have someone else do the work, will prob be around the 2k mark I would say, that's just for an inspection, assuming nothing is wrong. Depending on what is required could be up to 3-4k worth.
Best place for genuine parts is nizzbits (google)
aftermarket try Engine Australia
For the turbo there are plenty of cheap ebay options otherwise genuine for the $1500 mark
You might get away with just pulling the inlet manifold off and looking in the inlet ports, if there's nothing in them you might be lucky, if there is bits of compressor wheel in there pull the head of to be sure there's nothing in the cylinders.
Have you been driving it since the turbo blew up?
I'd suggest that if it's still running and it's not making any particularly nasty noises, you might have escaped the bullet on this one! 5km is a LOT of revolutions of the engine, and here I was worried about you cranking it over by hand to stick a camera through an open valve!!
Okay, catch can is simply an intercept in the hose that runs from the top of the motor to the air intake in front of the turbo. Once you mount the catch can, you have to run 1 hose from the outlet on the top of the motor to the catch can, and 1 hose from the catch can to the point in front of the turbo. Job finished.
Standard boost is around the 10-12psi mark if memory serves. You should safely be able to get it to 15psi. I'm pretty sure someone on this forum pumped theirs out to 19-20psi but I've no idea what they did to achieve that.
Standard boost is around the 10-12psi mark if memory serves. You should safely be able to get it to 15psi. I'm pretty sure someone on this forum pumped theirs out to 19-20psi but I've no idea what they did to achieve that.
When your turbo went it probably leaked oil into the exhaust and intake so having some blow out the exhaust would be normal till it burns off. Can't really comment on the cricket noise without hearing it, where does it sound like it's coming from?
I'm listening to crickets outside right now, noisy bloody critters. If my car made that noise though I'd suspect a fan belt needing a little dri-lube.
Unless you mean THIS sort of cricket?
[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfFQ7d3GqEE[/YT]
If that's what you mean, then it's your stereo on the wrong, Wrong WRONG station.
Does the pitch (not a pun!) of the sound change with changing engine rpms?
Unless you mean THIS sort of cricket?
[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfFQ7d3GqEE[/YT]
If that's what you mean, then it's your stereo on the wrong, Wrong WRONG station.
Does the pitch (not a pun!) of the sound change with changing engine rpms?
Do you reckon those sort of problems (as in something running off the fanbelt has a bearing on its way out or is moving properly) would be more noticeable at idle? I would think so?
Does anyone think checking valve clearances might help him out?
Not an expert just chipping in my 2c
It does depend on what's causing the noise. Sometimes bearings turning at a low rate (eg idle) are quiet but begin to vibrate at higher revs. We've had some people post with bad idler bearings. That would have been the next thing to look at. We've also had a couple of reports of alternator bearings being an issue.
Start with the easy, work your way up to the expensive. It's common that the belts squeal. Mine do too!
Start with the easy, work your way up to the expensive. It's common that the belts squeal. Mine do too!
