Blocked radiator??

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mooxie

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Hi all,

Been having a few problems with my 04 D22 overheating over 100km/h.

I've got a new set of hoses on the way and I'm gonna rip out the radiator this weekend and give it a good flush. (as good as I can without pulling the tanks off)

Any pointers for picking a blocked radiator? I've been told to feel the radiator after it's been running for a while and any cool patches indicate blocks? I did this and about 1/3 of the radiator on the passengers side was significantly cooler than the rest. As the intake and outlet are both on the drivers side it would be logical the passengers side would receive less water flow and be more prone to blockages.

I also noticed that the top hose seems to have more pressure than the bottom hose.

What's everyone thoughts.... blocked radiator?

I've already put a chemical flush through and replaced the thermostat with no luck.

While I'm on it... if the core is blocked... If I rip out the radiator, local specialist will give it a pro clean for about $120 including a new top tank. Other option is to chuck in a new Koyo radiator... can pick one up for $280 locally. Not sure if getting the genuine cleaned or a new aftermarket is the best option???

Cheers!
 
I cracked the top plastic tank on my YD25 rad (my fault) and when getting a new one installed had the block flushed, rad specialist said very common for D22s to become blocked in both block and rad over time and will lead to overheating when you get on the hwy (as you are experiencing) IMO just take your whole ute in and get it flushed block and rad and you will notice a bog difference.
my whole new radiator + complete flush + new "organic coolant" + labour was $400 all up. so pro flush wont cost eff all,

i had it all done in a single day, dropped off in morning and was done by early arvo
 
I've previously been told ( after I blew the top tank of the landcruiser work ute ) that because the tanks are plastic and they're crimped on they can't be repaired and you have to buy a complete radiator. That was years ago thou, so things might be different now. For peace of mind a new one is probably a better option cause then you know it's good for the next 7 years or so.
 
that is still correct rumpig, i snaped the small 30mm plastic outlet on my top tank off (never lean on it people haha) that is for the overflow hose. whole new radiator required due to shitty plastic tank being crimped on. i looked around locally for an alloy aftermarket radiator but due to such short notice failed to find anything.
 
i just had my d40 rad flushed and pull apart..

only cost 270 was 2/3 blocked

plastic caps are taken off new replaced and just crimped on

works well and safe and in my mind better than an all metal tank as if they get blocked its cheaper to buy a new one as the re-welding would cost alot
 
I am in the exact same position. over 100 the nav gets hotter than normal. I took it to a local radiator specialist and they said the same thing, because the hoses are on one side of the radiator the other side doesn't flow as well and it is common for that side to become blocked. He suggested I take it out and they will flow test, take the top tank off and flush it properly. They also replace the plastic top as well because they are known to become brittle and likely to crack later on. All up I was quoted $245. I am thinking of buying a new radiator and doing the install myself as well as do another DIY write up.
 
Had the same problem with the D40, replaced the radiator with a new one and all good, got mine off Feebay from CSSS radiators(no affiliation)can't reccomend this guy enough, he didn't have a manual rad in stock so had it sent direct to my work from his supplier.(koyo brand)

Kev
 
Cheers all.... see how I go this weekend! If it's still seems blocked, think I'll go with the Koyo.. fingers crossed I don't need it!
 
if the rad is blocked internally the best indicator of this is to rev the engine upto half speed and watch the hose connected to the waqter pump......if it sucks flat...rad is fubar.
 
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I read someone from d22 Facebook group with the same problem- what they've done is swap the factory rad to an aluminium one -
 
Got up early this morning and ripped the radiator out before work. The fins above the A/C condenser was full of grass seeds and rubbish!
Overally about 1/4 of the fins would have been blocked enough to restrict airflow! Gave it a good flush and replaced the hoses. Won't get a chance till tomorrow to go for a decent drive... but fingers crossed it'll be good to go!
 

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