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Wow sounds like a bit of an over kill to me, but each to their own, as they say knowledge is power! Okay it's really very simple, take off the radiator cap, cut your hose & yes you are going to lose some coolant, put in the fitting, clamp it up, top up the radiator first with clean (not chloride...

It looks like you and I have similar issues, I have been advised on another forum that the 550 can be a "*******" to bleed, the only way I have managed to bleed it so far and I still don't have my engine running, is to prime it and then individually bleed at the injectors, you need some one to...

Can anyone advise on what OBD2 reader they have used, I think mine is out dated as I'm not getting the info I need

So I got a friend to assist with bleeding at each injector (got a lot of air out of the system, but clear )- now I am at a complete loss as to no start, will have to go back to basics I suppose. I can confirm that I have some compression (yet to test that exact psi), I now have fuel and a...

The priming tool is part of the vehicle tool kit, unless there’s something else Have been using it so far

Update - Have/had fuel at the injectors, quite a process just kept at it, however it seems that I'm not building up enough pressure to start. Had quite a reasonable flow at one stage, left it for about an hour, now we are back where we started, no fuel, can get some froth at times but no matter...

Hey Tony

Here's another photo of this "valve" which shuts off the fuel to the high pressure fuel pump. My issue is remaining closed when cranking, no fuel, no start. Any ideas what activates it and can it be bypassed? Nissan dealer can only advise it's a fuel line as per parts manual. Circuitry of the...

Thanks Old Tony you jogged my mind into action (I'm supposed to be a mechanic ha ha) no fuel was/is the issue, traced it to a "valve or sensor" photo attached. If I work from the diagram (also attached) it should be a fuel temp sensor, it sits just above the high pressure fuel pump and has...

Okay, Brains Trust all attention is required - I have now rebuilt the engine, all care has been paid to crankshaft and camshaft timing, we have compression, not that it's been measured, but when it cranks over by starter it's pretty obvious. I've; checked for computer error codes - nil, bled the...

Thanks but there must be a sensor somewhere or something that indicates which stroke the engine is on otherwise it would have the injectors firing on the exhaust stroke as well- yet to plug in a OB2 tester

Okay rebuild complete now it won’t fire, thinking I have the timing out, Question is apart from the sensor on the crankshaft what other signal indicates the compression stroke?

Hi Cowboy, I have had no overheating issues, however I would have to state, that I think the chip increases the power to a tipping point of reliability. I have come to the conclusion that the main bearings are simply too small for the load placed on them, when you then add the carbon suspended...

Thanks for your info, the bearings actually spun in the block and it required a line bore, which required larger bearings (now toyota !!!) hard chroming the main crank journals to match - now waiting on machine shop to complete the job- one hell of a process but hoping to eventually get the...

Here's a really tricky question - Has anyone replaced the V6 A9X engine with another V8 or V6 that you can actually get parts for. I am currently advised that regrinding some diesel crankshafts carries a lot of risk (breakage) most engine reconditioners are now refusing to do it (advice from...

I have had the block bored oversize and the crank upsized with "cold chrome" and am using toyota bearings with tabs worked it through with ACL Bearings in Tasmania

Does anyone have the main and conrod bearing clearance specifications as they are not in the manual I've got; all help is appreciated

Caltex Delo 400 XLE Synblend SAE 10W-30 We use that oil in our Benz truck fleet never had any issues I'm interested in your thoughts I am now in the process of line boring the block, to fit larger bearings and "cold chroming" the crank (I think that's what they call it) to up size the main...

The one in the engine bay, the tank is a coarse primary filter and should not need changing

Not much in the plastic "oil seperator" which doesn't do a very good job anyway, just some steel wool type mesh and a couple of plates which cause a direction change in air flow presumably to assist in separating the oil from the air. Your vehicle did a lot better than mine which I think I'm...