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Think TC is getting better for off road, can require a change in driving style though so it will probably amount to a personal preference. Also TC can work with all four wheels, while lsd doesn't (unless front and rear are both lsd). The diffs such as detroit are much better, but the lsd's on...

So you have the vsr between 2nd start battery and (3rd) deep cycle battery and it's cutting out? Isn't that what it's supposed to do? You know there are still old fashioned types who have an isolator that they manually switch off when they stop, to make sure they isolate everything from start...

Fair enough Kevin, but I think we have different ideas here about what the VSR is for lol. In my scenario it's aka a "battery isolator" and can go anywhere between the + of the start and + of 2nd battery, to disconnect the start battery so that it doesn't run flat when the engine is stopped from...

^ Worth having for that price. It's an unwritten rule when working on trim, there's always one that breaks...

I don't think it matters where you have the vsr. As long as it disconnects the starting battery at <12.7v (or whatever it's set at) it's doing what it is supposed to. Not a bad idea to have fuse near the starter battery though.

If you've got central locking, does it unlock properly? Should give a clunk and the lock thingy should move, indicating the actuator is alright. If not and you've got the trim off it should be easy enough to do via the push rods?

^ No electrical connections at the injectors on the zd30 afaik. They're the old fashioned type. If the wiring and plugs to the pump are ok, it's most likely a faulty pump, unfortunately.

When a battery is full (or as full as it is going to get) at alternator voltage, it won't accept any more charge, so there's nothing to worry about. As others have said the alternator alone will never fully charge it, especially with voltage drop to the tub so it's worth putting a battery...

Sorry to hear that. Any more info? Did it suddenly stop, anything else happen, have you worked on it or changed anything recently? How long since last fuel filter change? If you pump the primer on top of the filter, how may pumps does it take until it is solid? Is it showing any fault codes?

Great you got it sorted mate.

ps. Glow plugs working?(although it probably should kick over without them) It also might be worth checking all fuses? The "NATS" is something I don't think we got here so know nothing about it. Do they have a remote unit anywhere, or is the whole thing done by the main ecu?

Yeah, should be ok just to see if it kicks over. Either that or give the whole intake a good once over. Someone on here did mention having the intake blocked from a critter once, an owl or something. Fuel problem seems more likely. Never taken an injector out of one of these (and hope never to...

Yeah, a few "graphics" on mine, as well as the occasional "pin striping". None of them intentional though lol. Not much give in things like sandstone and trees (both fallen and upright) and taking the wrong line, especially on badly rutted, off camber and slippery tracks can be a good way to...

Yeah, it is possible, others on here will know what does/doesn't work. The best way of getting codes is probably to use the engine light method. Using the theory that when diesels won't start they're lacking either fuel or air, and as you seem to have fuel.....Have you tried undoing the intake...

There is a "throttle position sensor" on the accelerator pedal that sounds likely. Not sure how to check that, works off a 0-5 v signal. If you search "zd30 throttle position sensor" you should find threads where others have had this problem and how they approached it. Out of curiosity, if...

They look like fairly aggressive AT's. Can't say what they're like, haven't used them. A lot depends on where you're going to be off roading. As Kevin says, if you're going to be touring in the outback you just need good reliable tyres that you're confident in, tread pattern isn't that...

You might also find it easier with one of those cheap pumps from supercrap, ones that screw onto the oil container so you can pump it in.

It's straightforward, they're easy to locate. A 1/2" drive ratchet/bar with an extension is all you need (at least on mine it is). It's probably best to loosen the filler plug first. You don't want to drain the oil and find you can't get a filler plug undone. That's very unlikely to happen but...