Yd25 engine swap compatibility

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

benlewis

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2023
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Brisbane australia
Hey guys just need a bit of help with my yd25 navara. It's a 2006 d40 manual 4x4 that's in need of a new bottom end. It was originally bought not knowing it had a cracked head, bought a new head and went to install until I noticed one of the bores has a fair bit of pitting down the bottom I guessing waters been sitting in there a while. Anyway I've found a 2011 auto 4x2 for sale with low kms just missing some body parts relatively cheap and wondering if this engine will suit mine? I'm aware head will have to be changed out and turbo setup and maybe a few other bolt ons however I just want to make sure there's no differences between the actual blocks before I commit to buying? Anyone done a similar swap that knows if it's possible? Thanks
 
Should work, just make sure to swap fuel injectors in that match the ECU injector calibration data. They have to go back in the exact same spot! If not they need to be calibrated with a capable scanner. Do the duplex timing chain while it's out if you can.
 
A bit like what I'm going to do. Swap a YD25 2005 Euro3 with a YD25 2013 Euro 5 (NP300). I won't be changing the head... in fact besides the injectors (then again will try to run it with the newer ones) the entire engine is going in. Needs some work on head to fit the 2005 exhaust manifold (because turbo), rerouting of the GT2056V turbo cooling, a separate mcu to control the electronic intake shutoff valve, required EGR delete, engine mounts, one dowel relocation and one thread to fit the gearbox, rerouting the engine harness (glow plugs on on the left vs the right on the Euro3), rerouting the vaccum lines, and various little bits...
 
A bit like what I'm going to do. Swap a YD25 2005 Euro3 with a YD25 2013 Euro 5 (NP300). I won't be changing the head... in fact besides the injectors (then again will try to run it with the newer ones) the entire engine is going in. Needs some work on head to fit the 2005 exhaust manifold (because turbo), rerouting of the GT2056V turbo cooling, a separate mcu to control the electronic intake shutoff valve, required EGR delete, engine mounts, one dowel relocation and one thread to fit the gearbox, rerouting the engine harness (glow plugs on on the left vs the right on the Euro3), rerouting the vaccum lines, and various little bits...
I'd be interested to hear how you go with progress on that swap. So that's the 8 port engine?

Cheers heath
 
That is the 8 port indeed... I've yet to get my grubby hands on it, albeit the old engine is already on the floor and I've more or less assessed the work be done as described earlier. The turbo jobby is about the biggest concern I have. The head doesn't fully match the exhaust manifold, so it'll need some drilling and threading. And the block to gearbox fitting will need some 'minor" touchup too. The seperate MCU for the shutoff valve is working as I hoped and the EGR problem is now convered (I'll list the parts I bought later during the progress of this project, I might also chuck in the mcu/parts and code).
 
Hi All, quick update on my swap (I've been busy elsewhere professionally). All the engine wiring harness is now off the YD25 Euro 3 and is now on the Euro 5, some rewiring work to add and adapt but nothing major. Will place the engine aside the truck to plug it in the ECU to assess the "damage", if any. The YD25 manifold is on (redrilling and rethreading the head is not for the faint of heart if you're doing it 'in situ'), turbo is on, turbo cooling replumbed (the Euro5 block doesn't have the threaded hole for the banjo plug) so I had to do some plumbing there. EGR completely removed. Euro5 Shutoff Valve wired to it's standalone mcu. Euro3 sump, AC compressor and Alternator bracket refitted (Euro 5 AC is different, i'm reusing the original compressor, perhaps if i had the Euro5 I could've kept the Euro5 bracket, keeping that idea for a later date...maybe). New pilot bearing ordered from Japan cause I didn't manage to pull the old one out. Now the big job : fitting the RE05 autogearbox onto the Euro5 block... cause the block rearend is not compatible to that gearbox...well not entirely. That'll be a job in about 2 weeks from now.

Above all i've filmed it all so far. Surprises
 
I've just gently hammered the the pilot bearing in today (was ordered direct from Japan @ 12,98 Euros, import duty included, took 2 weeks) and now awaiting for the rear main seal. Rewired the entire engine harness to cater for removed or relocated solenoids, new and homebrewed shutoff valve standalone mcu, Euro3 alternator and AC pump and convert the glow plug situation, drilled & tapped some holes here and there, paint job on turbo side of the block. All the Euro3 bits I needed (and could) salvage are fitted to the Euro5. Engine is now (if you exclude the read seal) ready to be dropped in the truck. At times was a bugger to get the parts to fit. Flywheel index locator pin and cam shaft position sensor were my 2 greatest fears, but Nissan seemed to not completely reinvent the wheel as they improved the YD25. Head, cams, smaller cam position tooth plate, slight mods to the block and intake are about as far as they went mechanically speaking. Should be ready for a matching to the RE5 autobox next weekend. (note that this block is NOT intially intended to mate to the said gearbox, hence drilling and tapping as mentionned above + some odd trickery). Will keep you blokes updated asap.
 
Euro 5 is in and mated to the RE5, my handdrilling skills have allowed the converter to lineup perfectly with the crank...i'm utterly gobsmacked but it worked. Now i need to plug all the wiring back and cooling etc... hopefully attempted startup this weekend.
 
Swap is done.

Apologies for the crappy video, but regardless this is genuinely the first start attempt. Phone was sitting on the battery as this is a one man job.

So can it be done? : Yes
Is it easy? : No, but not impossible
Did i change the fuel pump, injectors and rail pressure sensor + cam sensor ? : No, I intentionally left all the original Euro 5 spec parts (and the injectors are physically different anyhow).

All plugged to the original Euro 3 ECU and it popped. Note that it does move on it's own power, yet I have to drive it a bit to confirm it's all good.

Will keep you guys posted as i progress.
 

Attachments

  • 20240915_164207.jpg
    20240915_164207.jpg
    4.3 MB
  • 20240915 164257.mp4
    8.7 MB
Looks like you've done well.
Be interested to see more video of the swap and when it's around and running
Good job
 
Thank you for the support. I've got a pile of vids of the "build", detailing the process and what I've had to do to fit it to the R51M. I just need the time to edit and prior that I wish to confirm that all is in good shape (driving it around obviously) before i commit. Nevertheless I was extatic when it fired up. Shoved it in R and D to assess converter alignment and there's no shaky shake and is rather quite soft. I believe the ECU needs to reset itself, the idle on startup goes to about 1250 rpms then after a few seconds goes back down to 800 - 900. My plan is to put in a standalone lambda sensor to monitor it's health. Also, I've yet to put the cooling radiator back in and the oil rad is stuffed, aluminium corrosion. I've repaired the latter just so i can get the truck moving until i get a replacement. And i need to plug in my standalone ECU for the intake shutoff valve. I'll keep the forum posted asap.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top